Watching @Nowind 's videos it seems he has figured them out quite well. I would love to see him at Bakersfield on one of his boards.
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I don’t know, I haven’t integrated them on a working board yet.
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Go fast, yes. Racing, no.
The width is too wide for close quarters racing and the board length required for the angled nose and tail make the boards too long for good drafting.
A long and wide setup might do OK now while we are in the first year of electric skateboard racing but they will quickly fall out of favor once the pack closes in.
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@Nowind is a great place to start. The key to making electronics live is the ability to hang a large Watt drive system. A drive system that stays cool lives. When you have a system that has twice the watts you need heat is non issue. The drive systems available for channels are fantastic, there is no doubt power is a non issue. @nowind if I remember had worked on stability control with an addition of a moto steering damper.
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If we’re talking outrunners, then too big of motor is too much because of it resistance to turn, I think @Kug3lis noticed this with his huge motors, right?
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Function. At a glance, The hanger axle centerline is Outside the kingpin rotation point. This to me seems ok for making ground clearance but counter productive for stability. By moving the hanger centerline closer to the clevis king pin or even Inside, it closes the distance between the two fulcrums , putting more leverage control to the baseplate kingpin where it belongs. 
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Hanger weight is definitely counter productive. I would like to see a driveshaft driven hanger (someday) vs a hanger with weight . A motor that struggles and makes heat is inefficient. I agree there is a point at where a bigger motor isn’t better. When looking for performance there are always balances and compromises to be made.
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Now were talking. https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/genuine-question-why-do-people-buy-the-following-products/72054/86?u=moestooge
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@Deckoz thank you for taking the time to expand on this topic, both here and in the prior thread. Exactly the kind of information and discussion I was looking for.
Can we clarify what “high speed” we’re talking about where instability becomes a factor? We have a lot of different skill level riders. To me personally, I’ve not had stability issues up to 40mph, but my board can’t even do that without a good hill to assist.
I realize rider weight/board/skill will always play a factor, but I’m wondering if we’re discussing speeds that don’t apply to most? IE: channel trucks show these issues most prominently at 45mph+, etc
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My stock Lacroix with 8’ tires, gets the wobbles at 47km/h with yellow shock blocks at the front
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MBS Matrix Trucks are nowhere near as stable as my Trampas though. 
that’s actually the exact reason why I never bothered with just buying a LaCroix when I was starting off.
(In my personal opinion and experience. You also have much fewer options for tuning/customization)
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Spot on and thanks for jumping in. For Channels, As we move the wheel axel centerline to the board side of the clevis pivot centerline the truck will become more stable. Time for someone to build something.
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Could you post up close-up of your truck layout. Front and Rear
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This would cause the board to handle extremely poorly. Nothing wrong with some inherent instability in a high performance build. You still want your board to juke when you need it. Some positive rake is desirable.
@MoeStooge I’d be happy to. Currently I’m running 80a dampeners on front and rear. I’ve previously run 85/90 in the rear but my 80s have been solidly broken in and I’ve been enjoying it. The LaCroix Prototipo deck is 30/30 on the end angle, but I dewedge my rear to 20 degrees (have also played with 40/30 and it’s fun as hell but rowdy, not sure on higher speed as that was in an offroad configuration). Right now my board has winter tires on, 8" knobbys, I’ve been running 7" Inlines otherwise. I change up my configuration every few weeks to test new things.
Trampa Ultimate Trucks = CNC Light Hanger & Baseplate with 9.525mm Titanium Axles & Titanium Kingpin.
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Another thought regarding this subject. How do channels cope with extreme acceleration? When I built my latest set up I had to deal with wobbles at full throttle from the line. Acceleration was the killer. Any kind of foot movement could induce some sphincter constricting events. The only channels I have ridden have been on a fairly low torque set up with gummies so it was fine up to full speed and then became unstable for me Note the highlight. Interested to know if the channels suffer the same walking that rkp with bad bushings can. I’m only asking this stuff because of a genuine effort to learn because I really want a set up that will allow extreme acceleration, top out at 35/40 and yet still have some good carving abilities. If such a thing is possible. I have my evo set on hardish bushings with very loose 50’ trucks and while its super stable at 40+ it is not the most manoeuvrable machine at low speeds without a slide and In the immortal words of Danny Glover I’m getting too old for this shit
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I wish I could speak with more hard data to back this, but so far it’s not been a concern of mine in the least, and my board is built more for “Hold onto your dicks” level of torque than it is for speed.
@SeanHacker & @Skunk can probably attest to this. The 0-30 is generally dictated by the gravity of ones nads on high power gear drives w/ pneumatics.
Now this comes at a price, because I also burn through battery at the rate of 30-45Wh/mile when I’m dicking off and trying to burn out.
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It seems pretty solid at Full Throttle. The biggest hindrances for me was the terrain we were ridding on because it was a narrow path with pedestrians and cyclists. And the fact that I could tell I need to throw my weight much harder in order to get the responsiveness I wanted. But then again the board wasn’t set up for me. In addition to the light amount of ice on the ground and the fact that I’m in a cast and probably shouldn’t be f****** around too much on high powered board I’ve never ridden before.
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How your hanger rides on your pivot pin. Is it on a bearing or bushing?
Wondering how all this would cope with 100mm urethanes on your set up? Seems you have got the stability handled but hard to compare without similar set ups. @sender with his lacroix on rkp SR before moes wheels would be a good start.
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