The doc is currently read only for me edit: it’s now fixed
Update on the build. Since changing the rear TB218 to the surf rodz 45 the board is crazy stable I feel like I’m going half the speed as before. So this is what a downhill board feels like. It’s set up now 55 front 45 rear.
The downside is that there is one sharp hair pin on my commute that I can’t get around anymore without wheel bite. So going to +5 wedge the rear so will be 55 / 50.
One bonus of surf rodz is that I don’t need to carry a skate tool anymore as the wheels and kingpins only need a 5mm Allen key.
Only need these tools for the board now.
By the way these Allen keys are awesome! I have used them for years and they still fit perfect.
Oh and 290 belts came in. Fitment is great.
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Since I need to print a new plus 5 deg riser I finally got around to putting my riser design on thingiverse.
I have made 3 versions.
- Plus 5 deg.
- Minus 5 deg.
- Flat, 6mm thickness.
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Update after installing the plus 5 deg riser on the rear.
Still super stable at high speed, just a bit more carvey. I can make it around the u turn in my commute just with the wheels dragging a little but not biting. So I think I will just sand down the wheel wells a bit where they touch rather than run thicker risers.
Still kinda shocking how much more stable it feels over the tb218 at the same 50 deg angle. Feels like there is a bit more grip too, might be placebo.
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hi - nice work on the press fit motor mount adapter. I need a set! Just filled the spreadsheet.
Thanks.
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Awesome!
@Quiles 1 @jasonbhuynh 2 @lrdesigns 1
We are really close to five sets so pretty sure the press fit mounts will be a go. Get ready to pay shortly and I can get the CNC shop start this week. I updated the sign up sheet, can you guys let me know if you want the plate holes pre drilled?
I think I will save the motor plates for early in the new year. To complicated right now.
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Printed mounts been working for a week so far. I don’t think they will last forever as I am sure eventually I would hit a bump big enough to crack them.
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I don’t understand how they the mounts stay put. Just from shrink fitting? Or there are grubscrews that dig into the trucks for securing it nicely.
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They fit perfectly the shape of the hanger. The axle bolt holds them on and the square shape stops them rotating.
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Im not, I’m using 6s hobby ballance chargers and making the pack two parallel 6s packs for charging.
It works but honestly its become a pain in the but and I want to convert it to a bms just to make charging more convenient. I am looking at smart bms so I can still adjust final cell voltage and keep an eye on cell health.
Something like this bluetooth smart bms. Problem is I need to buy two power supplies also as I need one at home and at work so been holding off on spending the cash on that.
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Gotcha I’m also gonna look into that bms for my 10s lipo setuop. Also the 12s charger really that expensive? Aren’t they like $20-25 bucks?
Time to resurrect this build thread. I got a good tax return and will have 10 days off over the easter period to work on my board. So it is getting a bunch of upgrades. I may even repaint the deck.
Since the last update I have been using the CNC press fit mounts and they are rock solid as if they were part of the hanger. 
And have been enjoying the shit out of using DAVEga monitor, got 780kms with it.
The other HUGE upgrade I got this week was TB110 wheels. Previously I just had clone 97mm flywheels. Same set I have had for two years since starting esk8. Now they are 91mm and have done about 3000 kms. The difference in feel, traction and look is massive.
My plan for the holiday is to redo the lunch box and all the associated wiring. To convert from charging with hobby chargers to charging with a smart BMS. And one more thing I am going to try is to have an on board voltage booster with constant current / constant voltage to act as the charger, then I can plug in any 12v to 40v DC source and charge the board. Not sure if it will work yet but going to try it out.
The main goal is added convenience while still retaining adjustable end point voltage that I have with hobby chargers.
I got all the parts prepared, now to figure out how to hook it up?
Now 
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I’m glad you addressed the onboard charger voltage converter. I was thinking about this the other day and will be following this. It makes too much sense.
Definitely needs a diy junction box 
Some even come with clear tops. Kinda kicking myself I didn’t go with that one with the new lights I have coming.
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There is one main problem with going with the charger already in the board. I use a cc/cv charger as my normal charger for charging all different batteries and it’s great (I recommend adding a cheap watt meter to measure Ah and Wh of battery also amps going in) but the thing is the current is based on the voltage. The more voltage you feed into it the more current that comes out. You can turn it down again but it is a pita to do it every time.
For example when I charge using 18v input I put about 2.5A into the battery. At 25v it is about 6A. I would recommend to stick with just one power source and only use that or lower voltage ones.
Can’t I set a maximum current with it though of like 3 amps? I think most of the time I will use a 25volts supply, and maybe ocassional 12v - 15v
Having a volt and amp meter is a good idea though to see what it’s doing.
I thought you could do that. Maybe I have my current set to maximum, I usually just vary the current by increasing or decreasing my voltage input
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