The most common reason for wheel lift is the bushings are too stiff for the base plate angle and the ratio between the width of the hangers and the width of the board. On the same width deck, narrow hangers will wheel lift easier than wide hangers. Higher angle trucks (greater than 45 degrees) require softer bushings because as the angle of the truck increase, the leverage over the bushings decrease. As an example, in 45 degree trucks, I would normally run a KranK 90a, in a 55 degree truck, I run a KranK 84a
Bushings can be measured with a ruler because the height measurement is not a critical. Pivots need to be measured to the .001" or .01mm. Our bushings run just over the following the following heights: ShortStreet: 4" Street: .5" Longboard: .6" Tall: .75"
Hey.
So I tried your suggestions for my free ride set up. It is definitely different but quite fun. Agile but predictable. It is pretty … (wanted to make a mini sketch with me sliding past and screaming sweet to conclude the sentence, sort of worked out:slight_smile: )
Ps: thank you for your efforts and input on here 
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awesome
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I hope that wasn’t you missing the turn. If it is not tight enough, remember you have about 2 turns of adjustment and you can tune with Cupped washers or precision cupped washers. I tend to like it a bit loose
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haha no had some cult chronicles on, super slippery, so was just messing around.
Got flat precision washer boardside and cupped streetside with that set up. Running it as loose as possible. Gotta admit, you almost need the same amount of weight for each degree of lean. Weather it is from 5% to 6% or from 15% to 16%. There is no diving point or anything. Nice and gradual lean. Feels really amazing in sweepers. Tomorrow I can give them a proper break in.
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@Alphamail sorry to bother you again sir.
Please don’t forget to recommend the correct set of bushings for my Raptor 2.
BTW today I tested these Venom SHR 91a bushings for Ronin trucks I had laying around, the size matched the stock bushings that came into the Raptor 2, so I decided to give them a try.
Unfortunately, the result was pretty much the same as the stock Raptor 2 ones, I need something more flexible that returns to the center position quicker, I’m trying to ride with the trucks as loose as possible but the washers rattle against the king pin nut on every small crack in the road, so I know they are too lose, the worst thing is not even that makes the trucks turn more.
Would you suggest these Krank 87a bushings
To tell you the truth I have been withholding a recommendation until I see the bushing seats first. I want to see how restrictive they are
Do you mean you need to see the surface where the bushing touches the hanger? If so, I’ll take a picture tomorrow
Yes, that is why I posted the picture above
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Thanks for doing this @Alphamail
I would like some new life to my Evolve Bamboo Board. Currently I run everything stock Evolve (double kingping trucks) with a couple of mm kingping showing and their AT pneumatics.
I find the current turning dull meaning that it has the same “slow” feel from start to end of the turning. I would like some more responsiveness. I would like some resistance in the beginning of my lean, and then a smooth squeasy feel when the bushing starts to give. And I would like to get thrown back in to neutral getting out of the carve. Is that what you call rebound?
With this I hope to get some more stability when I am heading straight a head. So I can move my feet around with out to much wobble, and then a smooth firm feeling when the initial resistance is broken. And then the thrown back in feeling Does this make sense?
I mainly cruise around between 12 - 18 mph.
I weigh 165lb
Need more info?
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What a fool! Sorry about that 
Here are the pictures:
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Perfect, can you measure the depth of the step in the seat. Looking for the height of the sidewall that contains the bushing
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They go in 4.5mm
Here are additional meassures, just in case:
Bushing length 15mm Bushing external diameter 25mm Bushing internal diameter 9mm
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OK the basic approach to stabilization of compound truck set ups is to progressively tune the bushings going from the loosest to the stiffest - roadside front, boardside front, roadside rear, boardside rear. The KranK compound works great for this because it has high adjustability based on thee clamping pressure of the king pin nut. What duro Evolve bushings are you using, Peach 90a, Green 92a or Orange 95a?
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Thanks @Eboosted, those are very deep seats, normally you will see something around 2.5mm in a precision truck to take advantage of shapes such as TallChubbys. With such a restrictive seat, I would suggest going to a TallCone /TallBarrrel combination in the front and a TallBarrel / TallBarrel rear in either APS 87.5 or KranK 87a. So lower duro than stock and a easier to turn combination up front. If you want it even looser, run APS 85a or KranK 84a
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Thanks. Does that mean that I should use clamping to adjust? I got the impression that I should find the right duro and compound of the bushing and then have that determine how the feel is, without extra clamping. I believe the stock bushings are the orange ones 95A.
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The recommendation below needs to be revised due to some possibly incorrect information I found on the Evolve website regarding bushing heights. Once this is confirmed, I will post a corrected recommendation.
I would use a combination of duro, shape, washers and . force to accomplish this. Since you are looking for rebound, I suggest our KranK compound, all in 93a. For the front StreetCone (Cup) / Barrel (Flat) over StreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped) and the rear I would run StreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped) over StreetBarrel (flat) / Barrel (cupped). The suggested washers are listed as a starting point and will allow the front to be a bit easier to turn than the rear. Always be conscious of potential wheel bite anytime you change or adjust bushings. Even though we are going down in duro, we are going up in shape and rebound.
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Thanks that gives me a specific starting point - let the tuning begin.
Just to be sure. Have I understood it correctly:
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