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Bushing Set up Help


50 up front, 44 rear. Dewedging is heavenly.


I have tried 44 and 50 with 10" trucks and I’ve also tried 44 rear and 50 front on 10" trucks.
It’s been a while though. I quit going fast months ago.
It’s not worth the risk in my opinion.


@koralle does this look correct?


Yes thats right. I remeasured the second pivot cup and turns out they are different by .15 in some places so not high accuracy but I guess parts like these never are.

The inside bottom of the stock pivot cup is conical, not with a round radius but otherwise your sketch is correct!


I have a LY Evo deck with dual 6354 motors on surf rodz tkps with 6in thane wheels. I’m running 25mm pulleys and belts for mondo torque, but it tends to get a little squirrely above 20mph. After reading your advice in this thread and looking at your site, Im guessing this is what I need to settle down the wobble?



OK @koralle , based on your measurements the TB 218mm takes the Caliber II pivots…I am still wondering what Torqueboards trucks I was sent to measure for my post several months ago that took Indy pivots. @torqueboards, can you shed some light on this?


@Alphamail - Those were our previous trucks which are 180mm. I can send you the 218mm Trucks and you can check what fits and let us know. The baseplate is slightly different with the 218mm than the 180mm.


@mmaner I would have to say that you choice may help but I think there are better choices. With the LY EVO, the deck is already wedged and de-wewedged by something close to 15 degrees each. Take into consideration the SZ TKP’s are already squirrely handling trucks to start with without wedging. Tall bushings deform more than the same duro regular height bushings so I would not recommend talls in SZ TKP’s

Can you provide more details about the set up? I suspect the rear de-wedged is fairly neutral and the front turns a lot? Is it currently set up with the same bushings front and back? If so, the rear has a lot more leverage over the bushings than the front which can lead to a very unstable set up.


Thank you @torqueboards, that would help a lot, please send to the same address as before.


I have 1/2in hard risers on the deck, thats just for motor clearance. I could probably get rid of them and replace with some 4mm or 8mm rubber risers, if you think it would help, after adjusting the motor plate angle, I just prefer it this way for piece of mind.

Mostly I have issues while carving over 20mph, which is not something I do often. The front trucks tend to wobble a bit but I usually just accelerate out of it and the slow back down.

Here’s the build log… Dropped Airless Glorrrrrrryyyyyyyy [dual 208kv, dual focbox, 10s4p 30Q, LY Evo, Airless 6in wheels on 6 Shooters]

The only major change from the initial build is that I am now using 6374 190kv motors and 25mm motor and wheel pulleys with 25mm belts. These changes have not noticeably affected the wobble, just lots more torque and lets me run my belts looser. I am using the stock bushings and pivot cups.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of that is pertinent is that I tend to steer from the rear more than I should, just habit. Thanks for the advice and taking the time to do this thread, mondo cool of you.


@mmaner, steering from the rear is also destabilizing on most set ups. The biggest issue, from what you have said is you are running the same bushings front and rear. This is problematic because of the differential leverage you have over the bushings so the rear is easier to turn than the front which is the opposite of how it should be tuned. I suggest as a first step de-wedging the front at least 10 degrees and running a Barrel / Chubby combination in the rear. This should shift the bias to the front, allowing the front to turn easier than the rear. Give me the rundown on the shapes you are using in both trucks currently as i have seen them with both a Cone / Barrel or Barrel / Barrel set up. Let me know your weight also so I can give you a full recommendation. You also may want to consider a different truck up front as SZ TKP’s are not known for going fast.


Brad it’s great having your pu knowledge here.

I how can I get the squeaks out of all my connections in my bushings and the cup? drives me nuts. ive used soap and also oil and they work just ok and I have to repeat it.

also, I think I asked before but now I forget, is there a more durable pivot cup because with the motors the extra forces beat them up really quickly and my pointy bit ends up loose in the cup.


Both trucks have black double barrels, they are pretty soft. I weigh 190. thanks again for the assist.



Reporting back!

Got the new bushings a while ago, but jersey has had crap weather for a while now. Got the 96a krank fatcones boardside, the 96a krank tall barrels streetside and the new 96a wfb pivot cups installed.

Installation was easy of course, but the pivot cups were tight, like really tight. So tight in fact that i had trouble getting the truck pivot into the cup! It all went together eventually though. Might want to check the geometry. I can measure stock cups if you’d like.

First impressions: much better! Very smooth, almost buttery. Tightened the kingpin midway through the ride and really makes a huge difference for a chubs like me. I need to go for a daylight ride to see how stable they are at higher speeds.

And its going to snow tomorrow. Naturally. :frowning:

Thanks again!


Thank you! We purposefully make the pivot tight because urethane is resilient ad takes on a compression set so they will be tight without slop much longer!


Hey @Alphamail, thank you so much for taking the time to give us all informed recommendations, and I appreciate the help greatly!

I am running Caliber 50degree baseplates with torqueboards 218mm hangers. They’re sitting on 1 inch risers, so I assume there is some added leverage that will affect what bushings set up I should choose. As of now, the pivot cup is the stock caliber, and the bushings are the stock torqueboards (which felt stiffer than the stock Calibers in hand, but I am not sure to what the exact duro is).

As of now, I haven’t finished my Eboard, so I have only ridden manually. However, I do assume that I will begin to wobble and loose some stability at higher speeds, (my board should travel at 30-35mph at the very top end), so I would like to be as stable as possible at those speeds. From my testing so far, the setup with the torqueboard’s bushings has felt mushy, and I would like a little higher rebound. I’d also like to have a decent turning radius, especially with the wide hangers. I don’t know if I am asking for an impossible set up, but any recommendation is appreciated :joy:

I am going to use this board mostly for commuting to work as well as some fun carving. I’d like to retain as much of a surfy feel as possible while still being stable at speeds.

The deck I am running is a Loaded Tan Tien flex 2, and I weigh 145 lbs.

Thanks once again!


take those damn risers off!


I have to use them. With my current battery set up (2x 5000mah 5s lipos, pretty chunky with BMS mounted on top) and the flex of the deck, I need them for clearance of the enclosure. Definitely not ideal, but it’s the only thing I can do before I upgrade to a slimmer 18650 pack. If only I had unlimited funds. And in all honesty it isnt that bad. Almost like riding on Sidewinders height-wise.


Thank you, here are a couple of general thoughts. Symmetrical 50 degree base plates are designed for maneuverability, not speed so you need to de-wedge the rear truck using an angled riser at least 10 degrees, 15 or 20 would be better but mounting the truck becomes difficult since the mounting hole spacing is diminishing as you wedge or de-wedge it. You can also pick up a Caliber 44 degree base plate and add you 10 degree de-wedge will net you a net split of 50 / 34 degree for a more stable set up. Since you are already using risers, there should be adequate room to do this. Now that you have a split set up, you need to compensate for the higher leverage that the 34 degree rear truck exerts on the bushings. My favorite and way of doing this is to run all the same duro and use different shapes in different places. I weigh about 200 lbs so I would run a Barrel / Barrel front with possible a flat washer / a cupped washer, for the rear I would run a Barrel / Chubby or FatCone with a cupped washer / the Chubby flat washer. As far as i know the TB 218 will take the Chubby boardside but I will know for sure soon!.


I’ll try the chubby on a tb218 tonight, I got a pair finally…