Bushing Set up Help

Fuuuuuck that’s crazy

Haha yeah, some Australian companies wanted like $3k to machine the pieces.

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So true this. I have got some silly quotes for simple machining qld wise.

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@Alphamail What is the equivalence between WFB and Krank bushings? eg Right now I have 95.5a WFB barrel on the rear and 88a WFB barrel on the front.

If I wanted to change to Krank what should I select and how would it affect the behavior of the board?

This is a theoretical question as I am really happy with the way I have setup my Evo right now.

However I am building a Tayto with caliber 2 50degree trucks and I am trying to figure out what Riptide bushings to buy.

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It is best to go here for a better understanding: http://www.riptidesports.com/aps-krank-wfb-explained/

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I have already read that article.

From what i understand a Krank bushing would have to be approx. 1-2 shore ratings softer to give me the same feel as a WFB and would also allow me to play a little by tightening the truck unlike the WFB.

So instead of 95.5a WFB I would have to use a 90a Krank and maybe tighten the kingpin a little.

Also since they have more rebound the board would have more of a tendency to return to center as opposed to WFB which would need more input from the rider.

Is that correct?

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That is very close, but I think 93a KranK may be a better choice is you are using a Cupped washer on the WFB, just run a flat with the KranK

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As usually guys, you’re the best! Got some stock:

image image image

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Thank You! Please let me know how it all sorts out

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Hi. yes sorry. I have caliber 44 trucks with cone barrel

this is my deck

I’m running: -90mm wheels

  • single drive 1200 watt peaks.
  1. Surfrodz TKP 177mm with 80mm axles.
  2. Stock 93a hard bushings.
  3. Maintain highspeed stability, more low speed turnability, more rebound.
  4. Transportation, 20mph+ carving.
  5. Hummie’s double drop deck, top mounted.
  6. 180lbs geared up.

The current bushing feel dead to me, not a ton of response or rebound. I can go fast comfortably, but my turning radius isnt a tight as id like it to be

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I’d like to know this as well. I’m running the same setup.

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With this same advice what duro would you suggest for a rider weight closer to 150-160lbs?

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OK @Colson003, @PickSix24, and @SkatesontheBay, SZ TKP’s turn a lot and can be very twitchy, which is even more pronounced if you use the “Surf Keys”. Often they need a lot of bushing to control them, unfortunately the most recent versions no longer accept our Chubby as SZ has opted for their Venturi seat both top and bottom. The ideal boardside bushing for SZ TKP’s used to be the Chubby so depending on the vintage you have, that ship may have sailed. That leaves our Cones, Barrels and FatCones to work with as well as adjusting the base plate angles. I suggest leaving the front unchanged and dewedging the rear (make the kingpin more vertical) 3.5 to 7 degrees depending on what is available. Stock SZ bushings are normally a cone / barrel setup so change the front to a Barrel / Barrel and the rear to a Barrel / FatCone. If you are using grind kingpin, use a Cupped washer for the rear roadside Barrel to help compensate for the increased leverage of the dewedged rear. For compound and duro for a 180 pounder, KranK 93 should work fine, for 150-160 go KranK 90a

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Mbs ATS 12’s on double drop 41" deck. The king pins are almost vertical. They are ment to be mounted at a 30° angle not drop through so there’s that. I added maybe 5 or 10° front and back riser to try and wedge a bit. Got bad speed wobbles and went down at 30mph, Then switched from barrel/cone and cup washer to double barrel with large flat washer. Feels much better now, can I do anything else?

I think @mmaner did something with these a while back with a bunch of RipTide bushings and I cannot seem to find to link to the discussion, perhaps Mike can point us in the right direction!

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I think it was @anorak234 that used the MBS ATS 12 trucks, maybe here?

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You might be right, I just found this above responding to @anorak234 : “So the top (road.side) bushing is our Street height and the bottom (boardside) bushing is our longboard height. Looking at the base plate, unfortunately they designed in a recess which limits your bushing and washer shape choices. You might be able to circumvent the recess with the large flat washers we ship with the Chubby and FatCone but you might need to go with the Street height in that position also to compensate for the lost height.”

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@RedBaron, have a look at the posts from @anorak234 here: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/ats-12-bushings/75493/12

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It says I dont’t have access to that link? Thats weird.