Bushing Set up Help

OK @Winfly, there are couple of things. A synthetic split will never be as effective as an actual split so keep that in mind when pushing the speed. Second, i am unfamiliar with the bushing seat design on your custom rear hanger so I cannot confirm if a Magnum will work well there but it might. If you could draw up some specs, I might be able to tell but it looks like you can use Cones, Barrels, Canons and FatCones with Magnums and Chubbys, unknown. As for the pivot, stick with the our Paris 96a WFB pivot. For the front, the Cone / Magnum Might be a bit too much unless you go for a softer uro than stock like KranK 87a, If you keep the same shape as stock, use KranK 90a Cone / Canon. Like I said above I will need additional info if you want to go for a Magnum or Chubby in the rear truck.

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Hey @Lunasi 35 to 40 is really considered Downhill speeds and from the Bustin website, the deck is not well rated for those speeds so it is rated 3 out of 10.:

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Since you are on barrels currently, I think you might enjoy trying some new shapes in the TB218’s such as KranK 90a Canon / Canon front and a Canon / Magnum rear. If you want a direct match just different compound choose KranK Canon 87a / 90 front and KranK Canon 90 / 93 rear.

Thank you for the suggestion, I think you might have a different view of the deck though based on the current Maestro model. The 2017 thermoglass is a significantly stiffer deck and was designed as an all around deck as well as for some downhill. The current models with e-core are flexier and made for pushing/freeride more, whereas the 2017 thermo maestro is a lot more versatile.

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OK cool, I could not find good data on the thermoglass. Same recommendations though since it is working for what you want to do

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Really appreciate the help! :blush:

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@Alphamail hey, @moone recommended you to give me some advice on bushes for my new eboard build… I will be running torque board trucks in a street set up with 6374’s dual so should be pushing 60km/h. I’m 110kg and am looking to have the board stable at high speed runs while still having a bit of movement to manage some light carving. Should I be swapping out the bushes for something more stiff? I haven’t got the trucks delivered yet hoping they will arrive next week.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

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Hey @Balth81, I suggest riding it first to find what issues there are since stocks bushings are sometimes perfect for some riders. You may want to take some of the steering out of the back truck if you are looking to do 60 kph. A 50 degree symmetrical setup can be very challenging at speed. At 110 kg I think you will definitely need to increase both the durometer and size of your bushings to make it work. Are you open to reducing the rear base plate angle?

@Alphamail I’m open to anything that will improve the ride … I didn’t really understand well how the Angle will improve the ride… if there is something better than the 50 degree for me then let me know…

I will try the bushes when the arrive in the event they are too soft I will post back here to see what suggestions you have for me.

Thanks mate I appreciate your time.

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If the front turns the same as the back, the setup is very agile and maneuverable at slow speeds and is great for doing slides, pendys etc a higher speeds with the proper skill set. If you are looking for stability and to reduce the chance of speed wobbles, reducing the truck angle in the back is the fastest way to get there.

I have now ridden the standard bushes they are ok for carving when cranked up tight… I am thinking need something more solid for my weight… I am not opposed to Changing the truck angle but for now I would love some stiffer bushes… got any suggestions?

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OK @Balth81 reducing the rear base plate angle goes a long way to stabilize almost any setup because you are reducing the rear steering input . Cars are extremely stable and steer only from the front. If the front is 50 degrees, you have a lot of steering so you can reduce the rear quite a bit and still have an agile and carvy setup. My recommendation hinges on what you decide to do since a lower degree base plate or one that is de-wedged (as the kingpin nears vertical it approaches 0 degrees) needs bigger or harder bushings to compensate for the increased leverage a lower degree base plate angle puts on the bushings. If you want to leave the setup as it is (symmetrical 50 degrees) 60 kph will be very difficult to achieve unless you have a tremendous amount of experience an skill.

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How much of a reduction you recommend? And which bushings to suit?? What’s a good starting number?? Thanks for your advice.

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First: Thanks a lot for offering this service! I don’t know anything about how bushings work and what to look for when buying them. Thanks a lot!

  1. The brand of truck you are using plus the base plate angles and hanger width. If it is a clone, I need the bushing Outside Diameter, Inside Diameter height to the .1" or .1 mm, and shape (normally a Cone/Cone, Cone/Barrel or Barrel/Barrel for stock set ups).
  • I have the TB 218mm trucks. I have not changed anything on them so it’s the stock bushings, base plate angles etc.
  1. If you are using aftermarket bushings, I need the bushing brand, duro and shape that are in the trucks currently.
  • I have the stock bushings.
  1. I need to know how the trucks feel and what you want to change: Do you want it looser, tighter, more stable, less stable, more rebound, less rebound, etc…
  • Right now it’s okay for turning at low speeds, but when going 20mph, the board turns really easy and I have to stay very still and absorb all vibrations to have a nice and safe ride. I wanna be able to make sharp turns at low speeds and not be able to turn the easy when riding fast. I guess that means I want it to be stable at high speeds and looser at low speeds Haven’t noticed any rebound, so I think it would be nice to have some of it, when cruising, making sharp turns and maybe carving a bit.
  1. Type of skating you want to use the setup for.
  • Electric skateboard. For both cruising (15 mph) and speeding (20-25 mph).
  1. Deck you are using and how likely the set up will wheel bite.
  • I use the Bustin Royce Pro. I haven’t got any wheel bits yet and dosen’t look like I will be getting any.
  1. How much you weigh.
  • I weight 139 lbs
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I just recently swapped the pivot cup and bushings to canon 96a rear and 93A front on my tb218 trucks.20181129_164406 20181129_165235 Haven’t tested it yet but it feels good in the living room :joy:

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The bushings in the bags are red and gray. On the trucks are they turquoise? What :joy:

Yeah sorry I took a photo in between the swapping of the pivot cup and bushing :joy:

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I see a Subsonic Century 40. Great setup. @Subsonic_Paul

@legend27 sorry for the delay, I will address this today, just had to fill an OEM order to China for Alsen Precision Trucks (I Love That)!

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OK @legend27, you have several options. If you want to keep the trucks at the same angle as stock and run symmetrical, pick up some KranK or APS Canons in 87 or 87.5 and use flat washers up front and cupped washers in the rear. either should get you where you want to be. KranK has a bit more compression adjustment than APS so more versatile. Start with the trucks just tight enough to take out all the rattle then adjust tightness from there

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Thanks a lot! Is there any better options than that, if I don’t mind changing the angle?

And is this what my cart should look like? bushings