It looks like other people had problems with the Caliber II pivot cups fitting the TB218mms. In fact, you even followed up here (https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/torqueboard-50-v2-trucks-what-trucks-are-they-really/10090) saying the Indy cup fits best. I’m confused. Why did you tell me to get Caliber II pivot cups? Is there something I’m missing?
Those are torqueboards V2 180mm they have a different baseplate. I had no issue installing caliber 2 pivot cups in my baseplate that came with my 218mm hangers
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Oh that makes much more sense! Thanks @strattos and @alphamail for helping me out with this. I’ll email Tracey right away to get my replacements 
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OK, just to clarify, @Freddiecook’s 925 is a top mounted to a dropthrough deck. In my mind, this may be an advantage. When I first stated skating, I loved dropthrough boards and we even developed, as one of our first products, backing frames to reinforce the cutout (I did not like the idea of my life hanging on so little wood). As I improved, I quickly abandoned dropthrough for top mounts for several important reasons including speed, stability and more controllable and predictable slides. Turns out top mounts are better at both grip and slip plus I could stand more over the front truck with a top mount than I could with a dropthrough.reducing the chance of wobbles. That being said, with a topmounted dropthrough deck, wedging and de-wedging are simplified. 50 degree front is steem enough so i would leave it alone and either buy a 44 degree rear Caliber base plate or de-wedge the rear a minimum of 5 degrees with 10 degrees being better such as using a 44 degree rear with a 5 degree de-wedge thus dropping the rear to 39 degrees. Once done you will need stiffer or bigger bushings on the rear than the front due to the increased leverage you now have on the back. This coupled with concentrating your weight more over the front truck while general riding and accelerating and keeping your knees bent and legs loose, your chances of wobs goes way down. If you are open to making some of these changes let me know where you will end up so I can make a specific recommendation. I can also make a recommendation if you want to keep the setup as is and we do a synthetic split setup to improve the ride and handling.
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Thanks for the reply. I’ll have a shop around and try and pick up a 44 base plate for the rear and look at buying a 5 degrees wedge to bring it down to the 39 degrees, when you say putting your weight further over the front truck, should I just make sure that there is a smaller gap from the front of the board to my front foot than the back of the board to my back foot? (currently i stand with my feet equidistant from the ends of the board).
After all of this what shall I do with the bushings?
The help is very appreciated
Yes, standing closer to the front than the back will bias your weight towards the front plus bending the front knee more than the rear will help also. If your stock bushings are Barrel/Barrel, start by using Cupped washers in the back and flats in the front to create a differential if Cone / Barrel, run the front Barrel / Cone and the back Cone / Barrel or Cone / Cone front with cups and Barrel / Barrel rear with cups. If none of this works, I suggest KranK Canons up front and a Canon / Chubby rear in 90a
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I can confirm this. I have the caliber II pivot cups and the hanger does not fit as low into them as the cups that comes with the tb218 trucks.
Edit: fits on one of my trucks but not the other, seems to be a difference in thickness between the two cups I got.
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Can you send those back to us for measurement as what you are saying is very unusual. We will send you a replacement pair. Please contact Tracey at [email protected]
RipTide Sports, Inc. PO Box 91112 Santa Barbara, CA 93190
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Ok, I will do that 
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I just got mine a couple weeks ago.
@Alphamail I’m 225 lbs and have 2 board, one uses Paris Trucks V2 and the other is still being built and will use Caliber IIs 50 degrees.
On the Paris Truck V2 board I’ve been using the stock bushings and it’s very soft, I over-tightened it a lot and got used to riding it that way I can carve and turn very well, but I hear it’s not good to over-tighten.
Today I bought and tried a green venom stepped barrel (93a) + green venom cone (93a) and that setup was too tight and I couldn’t even make turns. I tried a few combinations with the stock Paris V2 bushings and I ended at green venom stepped barrel (93a) + stock Paris V2 barrel (picture bellow) and it seems to work well tightened to 2 full rotations (I see 2 threads on the kingpin). When I carve the boards feel bouncier than before like it’s trying to move me back to center, just a different sensation.
I really don’t know what kind of setup I want, so if you could recommend a good starting point for 225lbs weight for both the Paris v2 setup and the Caliber II 50 setup I would try it out.
Thank you!
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I ordered them in June 2017
@Alphamail A little update. I got the new pivot cups today (yay!) and when I installed them, I ran into the exact same problem. The canon bushings won’t seat correctly because the hanger doesn’t go down enough. I guess it must be the Torqueboards trucks :(. Here is a picture of what I’m talking about: 
As I said, we manufacture with an interference fit so installing pivots without the trucks being mounted is difficult if not impossible. With the trucks mounted to the deck, do the following with the boardside bushing and washer in place. Install the pivots and push them in as far as they will go, you can use a flat file to press them in with force. Insert the pivot nose of the hanger and slip the hanger over the kingpin, rotate the hanger back and forth as you add pressure pushing the hanger intp the cup and add the roadside bushing and washer and kingpin nut. Snug up the assemble continuing the rock the hanger back and forth then flip the board over and stand on the deck to further force the hanger into the pivot and tighten the kingpin nut as you go, this should seat the pivot properly. Urethane takes a compression set so we designed these with that in mind.
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Alright sweet. One thing to note is they are still much better than the first pivot cups. Thanks for all the help!
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@Alphamail how do I solve the problem of low turning radius due to deep bushing seats? I want to retain the stability of double barrels and double cups but want to increase turning radius. Softer bushings don’t help much. I’m running 50/50 now and was wondering if maybe wedging the front trucks or using tall bushings will help ? Thanks