Hi there, first post so bear with me if I don’t format correctly.
The brand of truck you are using plus the base plate angles and hanger width. If it is a clone, I need the bushing Outside Diameter, Inside Diameter height to the .1" or .1 mm, and shape (normally a Cone/Cone, Cone/Barrel or Barrel/Barrel for stock set ups).
Currently I have the diyeboard 10s5p kit. I’m on the stock trucks it comes with but I threw some double barrel 93a bushings in the rear for the time being and kept the barrel cone setup on the fronts. On hand, I have paris 50*, cal2 50*, and cal2 44* trucks available.
If you are using aftermarket bushings, I need the bushing brand, duro and shape that are in the trucks currently.
I have Blood Orange 93A Barrel and Cones available, I also have stock paris bushings, and 90a/96a double barrel bushings available.
I need to know how the trucks feel and what you want to change: Do you want it looser, tighter, more stable, less stable, more rebound, less rebound, etc…
Currently the deck is a little dead feelings, I eliminated the rear driven wobble by sticking some double barrels in the rear but would like some more turnability. At speed, I’m pretty happy with the board, it just needs a tad more maneuverability. My daily downhill board is a rayne isis with 44cal double barrel 93a in the rear dewedged to 35*, 44 cal barrel cone 93a in the front for reference; so I don’t mind a little rebound.
Type of skating you want to use the setup for.
This is mainly a daily commuter/speed setup. I am usually in the 20-28mph range unless in tight areas or where theres a lot of pedestrians.
Deck you are using and how likely the set up will wheel bite.
I’m using a landyachtz switchblade 38, I have 0.5" risers on the board. Top mounted on the diyeboard oem trucks w/ the stock 90mm wheels. I have no wheel bite currently, I’ll be switching to abec 11 97’s next week but still won’t get any bite at the moment.
How much you weigh.
I weigh 175 lbs.
Unrelated but what section would I post in for modding the 10s5p kit? I wanted to get an idea of what modds are out there, whats available, etc.
Factoring the riser pads in place the rear ends up at 50-15-5+7=37 degrees and the front at 50+15=65degrees
I weigh 78kg (171lbs) but may end up weighing 90kg with equipment and backpack.
Riding style is unknown yet as this is my first eskate. I intend to use it to go to work somedays and also for recreation.
On my first ride I got speed wobbles (I ride skateboards so not a total newbie) which did not expect on that particular deck.
I have some Riptide pivot cups 96A on my cart but I am undecided yet on the bushings.
I’m going to guess 82a to 87a krank barrel/barrel. You will need a to increase the duro of the rear truck here, maybe just a fatcone of the same duro on the board-side would do the trick and provide a more progressive and stable feel for the drive truck.
@Alphamail i have a Landyachtz Tugboat, with Torqueboards truck in the front and Carvon V4 in the back, im normally between 65-70kg. What would you recomend? The board is very turny, id like something super stable, i dont care that much about turning radius as its got a kicktail.
OK @MrMeowgii looks like you are just looking for a bit more maneuverability. If you are using cupped washers in any of the 4 positions, start changing them out for flat washers to remove some of the restriction you are experiencing. If that is not enough, you might need to go to a different durometer
Hey @taz if you are running the stock bushings at those angles, the front will be very hard to turn and the rear will be very easy due too the difference in leverage a 65/37 split places on the bushings. You can adjust with durometer and / or shape. If you have some cones, throw those up front and run barrels or bigger in the rear (FatCones or Chubbys). If you have all the same shape, say barrells, you will need at least 5 to 10 points different in durometer to compensate. Something like 80a or 85a Barrels up front and 90a Barrels in the back.
FWIW It did not look to my eyes like the Evo board has ±15 angles so I did a quick measuring.
I do not know if they have changed the angles but mine is nowhere near 15 degrees.
The rear is de-wedged approx. 7degrees and the front wedged 9 degrees.
No fancy equipment was used, just my phone with a level app.
This puts the rear at 50 degrees (considering the pads installed) and the front at 59 degrees.
Edit: I found another reason the board is so unstable. Loose baseplates. I do not want to spam this thread with irrelevant details so more can be found here
All right, I was about to order a bunch of bushings, but would love some expert guidance!
I am running dual 6374 12s 15/40 ratio on Abec 107s. I am a little over 200lbs with all my stuff.
I am on some wide Surf Rodz Rkps with an adjustable baseplate. I am still fiddeling with different baseplate angles. Right now it is about 40 degrees in the back and 45 or so in the front. I am thinking about taking the front closer to 50 and leaving the back the same.
My bushings are stock crap and too squishy for me. I like turnability for sure, but I can gun the acceleration or take it much north of upper 20mph without it feeling a little too loose (even when over tightened).
I would like to buy a good bit of bushings to dabble with.
@Alphamail. If you could give me some ideas and a list of $60-90 worth of bushings/pivot cups to try out, that would be sick!
Daboard:
Here are the adjustable base plates, any recommened splits to try out would be appreciated as well!
OK, sweet looking set up. On the SZ adjustables what is the range you have to work with? I looked on their website and they show only a TKP adjustable but they do not give the range. Are the trucks RKP’s or TKP’s?
OK @Sender, SZ RKP’s can take our Cone, Barrel, Canon and FatCone, I would suggest the variety of shapes to chose would be combinations of Cones, Canons and FatCones in the KranK compound for the greatest adjustability. For your weight and the range of the trucks base plate angle, you have a lot to try out. Most split setups achieve the desired results with 10 to 20 degrees of difference so you could go 60/40, 55/35, 50/30, 45/25, 40/20 if the increments are 5 degrees. Once you drop below 40 in the front, maneuverability begins to suffer but if you are flying down open roads, it will be stable and predictable, and even more so as the rear approaches 0 degrees. With any split, the front needs to be softer than the rear if you are working with durometer, conversely keeping the durometer the same, the front bushings need to be smaller (Cones / Cone or Canon / Canon, Canon / Canon) then the rear (Canon / Canon, Canon / FatCone, FatCone / FatCone). We weigh about the same and I normally work with KranK 90a but most of my hangers are narrower than yours and SZ trucks are a bit twitchier than others so I suggest KranK 93a for you. 1 pair each KranK 93a Cones and 2 pairs each KranK 93a Canons and FatCones so you can run a load of combinations! The starting point for tightness on KranK is taking all the slop out of the kingpin stack but you can still turn the roadside bushing in the seat by hand at least a little.
@Sender, I find the surf keys to be a detriment to stability in SZ trucks, it takes an already twitchy center and makes it more so. If I ever used them at all, it was in the front truck with a really stiff rear. You findings may be different but I did not like them for the most part.
