Off topic, those are bad ass saw horses…Mikey needs 
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Do any of your pivot cups fit Surf Rodz RKPs? I Saw their TKPs on the list, but didn’t spot the RKPs…
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They are the tits. Light and compact. Kk back on topic…
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Those are mulch 4 sure, please don’r compress the RipTides that much!
I promise i won’t. I learned much in the last 10 years. Haha. Those bushings aren’t that great to start with though.
If you think those are bad, you should see what i did to my first calibers! 
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Revised EVOLVE recommendation is for each pair of bushings, the top takes the RipTide ShortStreet height (.4") / the longboard height (.6") so for each compound truck from the top to bottom:
ShortStreet / Longboard // Shortstreet / Longboard
Thanks for doing this!
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TB Caliber II clones
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Orangutan Nipples in purple - medium, and the flat washers that come with them. I sanded just a hair off the board-side bushings so they fit.
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Honestly, I’m pretty happy with them, but I keep hearing about Riptide is the end all be all in bushings and would love to try them out.
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I’m looking for a good mix or fun playful carving at 15mph and stability at 25mph with a priority on the fun carving
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Modified NeverSummer Clutch, top-mounted, 107mm wheels, no chance of wheel bite.
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150 lbs
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@Alphamail Nah, they’re the standard TB ones, so 180mm.
collections/longboard-trucks/products/torqueboards-v2-pro-trucks
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OK, I found my review of the 180’s:
OK, here is what I found about the Torqueboard 50 degree V2 trucks and what RipTide fits where for upgrade purposes. The pivot cup that fits is our Indy 96a WFB pivot. It is dimensionally very close to the stock pivot and goes into the base plate a little easier than we like to see but it is tighter on the hanger pivot nose so it does make for a functionally good tight fit when assembled. As for bushings, the trucks will accept our standard longboard bushings both boardside and roadside. The hanger will take the following shapes that we make: Cone, Barrel, Canon, and FatCone. The tightest fit in the hanger is the Canon bushing which is slightly larger diameter than our Barrel. Additionally, the king pin length does not leave much room so you may elect to not use a boardside bushing at all when using two .6" tall bushings or you can run our Street series bushings in the roadside position since they are .5" tall compared to the longboard series which is .6" tall"
That being said, do you have the ability or want to wedge and / or de-wedge the trucks or do you just want to work with the bushings?
@Alphamail Sorry, just now seeing this. I’m open to the idea of wedging, if you think it will gain me enough to be worth it.
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1. Evolve double kingpin trucks.
Rear truck: boardside: cup washer, venom 98a SHR barrel (.6″ tall x .97″ wide), bones 96a cones, flat washer. Street side: same
Front truck: boardside: cup washer, venom eliminatirs 90a, venom 95a cones, flat washer. Street side: same
All stock cups.
- I use freebord bindings so I put a lot more torque on the trucks. They feel stiff and at top end (33mph+) prone to wobble.
I would like a setup that feels a little more soft and consistent at end range motion, yet still can tolerate low 30s for bursts when I have to fight traffic.
There have been rare perfect days when bushings were new or perfectly compressed when my board felt so carvey and stable, I thought I was on a snowboard again and I did a double take to make sure I was going to catch a toe edge in the nonexistent snow pack. I want this snowboard feeling. I think I steer with my rear foot sometimes, which I think I like.
I know my king pins are over tightened. I switched over to titanium hardware to get stupid tight compression with out stripping hardware.
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I ride street (carving and fast) 70% of the time, grass and parks 30% (small tricks, nothing extreme).
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Bustin sportier 36 pro. No wheel bite ever. On 8in pneumos. Dropthrough set up, no risers or wedging.
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I weight 170lbs, board approaches 30lbs. Back pack up to 10.
Thanks for any thing you can add. I read some of the other double kingpin set ups, I think I ride differently and have different goals.
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Double kingpin trucks and stable >30mph +effortless carve at lower speed is a lot to ask… 
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I know. I thought I’d throw it out there for the skate God’s to mull over and granting me even fractional improvements.
Some rare days, I swear it is perfect, but the bones bushing go to mush. Mostly my fault. I’m always trying to tweak things (just ask @E1Allen) Every time I pull off trucks, I have to undo the boardside bushing set up because the drop through slot locks the truck in. Maybe should cut (see yellow lines) the slots to allow for easier tinker time:
Is this a dumb idea? I plan to glass the board to unfuck all the screw holes in the deck from past experiments.
Really, I just need to suck it up and buy motor cycle steering dampers ala etoxx and put them on a set of channel trucks.
Do pivot cups really do much? Would I gain anything from a bit o’ wedge action?
That’s so much monies
I have been absent and will address these questions this weekend…production calls!
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I just ordered a tunnel riser and wanted to add some bushings to my order too for when it gets shipped out. After reading all the info about what is recommend for the TB 218 trucks I just wanted to double check.
Have a Neversummer Reaper 2016 deck with TB218mm on the read and caliber II 50° on the front. I was looking at Canon / Canon for the TB, but not sure what to match it with on the calibers and for the deck. Cheers!
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OK the front turns fine so I would just dewedge (make the kingpin more vertical) the rear about 5 degrees then run KranK 87a Barrels all around and use Cupped washers in back and flat washers in the front to compensate for the 5 degree split or dual cups in the back and a Flat / cupped in the front. For some reason wedge companies only give out the dimensional difference front to back so you are looking for a height difference of .26" over the 3" run of the wedge.
Looks like a fun set up, I think I would set it up progressively increasing resistance from the top front to the bottom rear but it sounds like you are looking to perhaps slash the rear a bit causing a bit of rear oversteer, is that what you are saying?
So we are on the same page term wise, does this work for you? Top being the closest to the ground and the bottom being the closest to the deck (servicing orientation whole working on the board)
Since there are 4 pairs of bushings we will reference top pair front, bottom pair front, top pair rear and finally bottom pair rear
top pair front:
bottom pair front
top pair rear
bottom pair rear