Well that was quick, the riptide caliber pivot is a sloppy fit in a Randal baseplate, if I can jerryrig a 1mm shim then all should be fine in that regard
You will find our Randal pivots (in Randal base plates) are a very tight fit to compensate for the variance in the Randal pivot nose on the hanger which is often oval in shape
I understand how bushings can change how turning feels dynamically, but when would be a situation when wedging/dewedging would be more applicable than changing bushings?
I got 10 degrees Khiro soft (60a?) wedges. Theyâve compressed a lot under the hardware and Iâm actually concerned it is actually taking force out that would otherwise be used for turning. Looking for shock absorption.
In terms of this, how would putting a piece of rubber in between trucks and the nut, as well as between the screw head and the board? That way, when dealing with vibrations, the hardware wouldnât âbottom outâ with metal against metal, assuming the shock pads are compressing.
As a general thought, shock pads associated with the truck mounting are a bad idea since they severely deaden the response of the trucks. 60a is downright soggy when you get down to it. I suggest finding a better way to dampen vibration such as a pad under your grip tape or using shoes that cushion your feet.
OK @Luuke I would dewedge the rear 10 to 15 degrees (make the kingpin more vertical so raise the pivot end of the rear truck). I would also change to Canon Bushings up front and a Canon / Chubby rear in KranK or APS 90a, run Cupped or flat washers depending on personal taste.
Sorry, it appears we have some mistakes on our website, sorry for the confusion. From the Paris bushing section "The Canon shape (along with its companion, the Magnum) is specifically made for trucks with slightly larger, or looser, bushings seats - such as Paris. It is ever-so-slightly larger than our Barrel shape and has a sharper bevel to the rounded edge, thus eliminating that âdead-feelingâ that can occur if the bushing does not have a nice tight fit in the bushing seat. "
So I asked this elsewhere earlier, and I wanted to repost it here because it seems like a pretty good place to get answers from a really good source.
Basically Iâm just trying to figure out best practices when it comes to bushing lubrication to prevent squeaking and other sorts of issues.
Its a weird topic, because you kinda donât want bushings to be too free to move, or theyâre slide right out of the bushing seat, and pop out of cupped washers. But at the same time if they donât move freely enough, they grab and squeak, and just donât rebound optimally.
I personally have never lubed my bushings. We have one compound, WFB that is internally lubricated but it is not PTFE powder. Several people have used our lubricant âSpeedâ in the Wet version for this purpose and it does not appear to degrade the urethane. An alternative is graphite powder. Squeak is normally a small amount of contamination between the seat and the bushing
hi, with your advice i went to Sickboards to test it out. i ended up purchasing a new caliber II which i kept stock, and i purchased a pack of APS 90A chubbies and some wedges. the fatcones were a little too small (weird chinese sizes smh) but the chubby actually fit very nice boardside. for roardside i used a stock paris bushing which fits nice n snug. i wedged the fron and dewedged the rear.
all in all the board feels more stable at speed and still lively enough to make decent turns and carves. the wedges also added some extra wheel clearance for the turns! thanks for your advice Alpha!
I thought that the fatcone would fit nicely, but there was just a little bit of wiggle room. I also tried the larger diameter ones (cannons i believe) in it but those were just a hair too big and would sit weird. With âweird chinese sizesâ I referred to the truck being chinese made, thus having weird measurements for bushings and pivot cups.
Sorry if my message made it look like i was insulting. English isnt my first language