Hi Brad,
i took the bushings out and will attach a picture from them.
The barrel one has a thickness of 1.4cm the cone is 1.3 and the pivot cup looks around the same but is already slightly damaged.
On another board i have Caliber II installed, can you give me advise on those too?
Really appreciate your help and looking forward hearing from you.
Cheers
not sure if youll be able to help me since i havent actually ridden the trucks yet but maybe you can throw me a suggestion. So Iām gonna be using TB218 trucksā¦reason i havent ridden them is because theyre at home while im at schoolā¦
anyways; ive ridden caliber ii 50 trucks for about a year on stock bushings( my only frame of reference since i havent tried the TB trucks) and always found that they had to be very tight for me to eliminate speed wobbles upwards of 30-35km/h, and when theyre that tight my turning radius is pretty bad, especially at slower speeds. I ride a slightly flexible deck with a large wheelbase (dont know the measurement but the deck is 42" i think) with dual rear 260kv, so i like to go fast. I weigh 160-165lbs.
suggestions are greatly appreciated
I have 3 different combinations and shapes of bushing for regular longboards and esk8 from Venom and they all work well. Another thing you could do is have a 44 Cal baseplate at the rear but might need riser or adjust mount angles.
If your turning radius is not where you want it the first thing to try is changing out some or all the cupped washers or at least flipping the roadside cupped washers. That should give you some more freedom of motion and the same goes for the Caliber IIās. Making any change, please be sure to check for wheelbite. As for the pivots, for the pictured pivot I need ID, OD depth and length to ne nearest .1mm to be even close to knowing what to recommend. Pivots for the Caliber IIās, RipTide makes those!
I would be stabbing in the dark at this point. Once you get on them, we can establish a baseline for what direction we should go! They might be just right as is.
Hi @Alphamail , I am running venom hpf 90 bs and 87 rs for my raptor 2 right now. They are 50 degree precision trucks and I feel like going for something slightly more lively. I am 200 pounds and this setup pretty stable for me already. Would swapping out the roadside for some aps bushings work? What else would you recommend? Does any of riptideās pivot cups fit the raptor 2 truck?
You will experience a greater effect if you change out the boardside bushing. As for the pivots, I do not know what fits he Raptor 2 trucks unless I am forgetting an earlier discussion. I need ID, OD depth and length to the nearest .1mm or .001"
APS are a specific rebound based on the duro number, they are great centering and smooth when tuned to your weight, but harder to dial in and need to be under the perfect amount of preload using the kingpin to really come alive and function their best, they are great for looser trucks and pumping. Krankz are more forgiving, have a similar rebound and can be adjusted to a wider range through preload of the kingpinā¦making the tightness of the kingpin actually adjust the rebound a little giving you options. Itās sort of like using a shotgun verses a sniper rifleā¦one is very forgiving and you donāt have to aim well and the other will not work well at all if itās offā¦the WFB formula is squishier, has less rebound and is better for high speed control (downhill), they are also self lubricatingā¦Every single application of a skate bushing is subjectiveā¦the formulas create options along with the sizes and shapes to dial in the perfect feel for your weight and what your doing and on which trucks (and how wide and how much leverage) and so onā¦there is infinite possibilities and options and tons of tribal knowledge rulesā¦having someone like Alphamail here analyze and then apply all those rules at once to your setup is very educationalā¦this thread is worth a million bucks for those who read through it and understand the value of open analysisā¦
Indeed wheelbite is an issue if i run my setup more loose then it is now. I am ordering different sizes of risers at the moment and want to replace the bushings anyway because i feel like the rebound is terrible on them. Reading through the thread i think Krank is the way to go for me. I am located in Japan, so there are not many retailers here and they stock Pivot cups only for Paris and Caliber trucks so i guess i just try them both and see what fits.
What duro and shape would you recommend to start out with?
Looking forward to your reply!
Cheers
http://www.xtreme.jp/ and www.funwaves.biz carry RipTide in Japan so you might want to start there. Measuring the pivot cups accurately will definitely save you $ as there is no guarantee that either Paris, Caliber or Caliber II will fit in the trucks. As for the bushings, our bushing are about 1.04cm (ShortStreet), 1.3cm (Street), 1.55 (Standard Longboard), and 1.93cm (Tall) so none of them are an exact height fit. I would suggest running a Standard longboard bushing without a washer boardside and a Street height roadside in Krank 90a. Keep the same shapes if you want it to be nimble (StreetCone / Barrel) or a StreetBarrel / Barrrel if you are looking for more stability
but hereās the catch. The Fronts are 195mm Paris V2 Trucks and the back Trucks are have the ability to be also 195mm Paris trucks or 218mm Tourqueboard Trucks (the former for hubs and the latter for belt drive).
I know I know I should burn for this. Most likely going to running risers up on the front to even it out when I use the 218mm since theyāre far taller and would just have to have the back 195mm run risers as well. Risky running trucks of two different heights and width, but I have to see if itāll work.
What Iām shooting for I guess is stability at this point Anything thatāll help at high speeds or even turning.
thanks for your reply!
Extreme is my supplier of choice, but i wasnāt aware of the other one. That shop has all sizes of Pivot cups to choose from.
Now i got around measuring all bushings accurately and will attach the pictures.
First the barrel of the paris clones.
Do any of you guys have issues with the kingpin becoming sloppy really quickly in the @torqueboards 218mm baseplate?
I removed the stock one and put one from muirskate in and itās now doing the same thing. When I rock the trucks back and forth with my hand I see the hex end of the kingpin bolt shifting a few mm in either directions.
All this talk about āI canāt even get my kingpin bolt out has never been an issue at all for meā sometimes itāll just fall right out without any pressure. I probably only have 50 miles or less on these trucks.
Hey @Jc06505n, you are in luck, our Canons and Magnums work great in both those trucks and for your weight the KranK 84a or 87a should both work well. The deck looks a bit narrow so the 84a may be a better choice. Run a Magnum on the bottom and a Canon on top
@pshaw Kingpin slop can be a real issue with cast truck. When I replace mine, I use AN bolts that come in a .373" in diameter from http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an6.php
If the hole diameter of the truck baseplate is larger than .373" you will need to epoxy the bolt in place but you will never get it out again.
I would like recommendation on duros for the Pivot Cup and Bushings. I am building an dual motor Bustin Boombox 38āā using TB218 trucks top-mount. My weight is 75kg/165lbs. Wheels is 90mm Flywheels or 6āā pneumies (SixShooters). If with sixshooters became too far from the ground, thinking in drilling deck for drop through truck - not sure yet.
My priority is commute and cruseā¦def. not high speeds.
Based on the past recommendationsā¦I am thinking in getting: