@Bensaida and @Cobber Flush to the top of the kingpin is only relevant if you are using stock and the parts are actually to spec. Every bushing brand is a different height and washers have different thickness spec as do kingpin nut heights. That being said, my starting point for all trucks other than Ronin is to tighten to the point where it is difficult to turn the bushing in the roadside seat by hand then the range of adjustability for KranK and APS is 2 turns, for WFB, i would say 1 turn. For Ronin, the starting point is when the support pin just starts to move down. If you need to use the full two turns you likely need a harder duro or a larger bushing shape.
@davidbonde I think I would rather see you try ShortStreet combined with longboard so as not to upset the truck geometry with short bottom bushings. Please PM me so I can send out replacements.
OK for the HK trucks, here is what I found and suggest.
Nicely made with some interesting design features that may help (reinforcing rib boardside) and may hurt (gapped bushing seat wall). I found the Stock bushings to be around 94a and severely undersized in diameter for both the cone and the barrel (.915" nom) and undersized in height for the Cone (.428"). The stock king pin diameter is .362" and the king pin hole is drilled .387". When you take all those things together you have a lot of potential slop where the truck does not turn when you go off center. It takes several degrees of angulation for the bushings and king pin to go to the end of their tolerance and start the truck turning. This causes a very uncertain center, like the steering of a 1955 Chevy.
Picture shows the available space for bushing shift in the stock set up:
Compared to the upgraded set up:
Possible upgrades include RipTide bushings and pivot cups. The HK trucks fit our standard longboard Cones, Barrels, Canons and FatCones (boardside only) and our Indy Pivot cups fit perfectly. I also suggest replacing the stock king pin with a AN6-26A aircraft bolt, the bolt alone takes .010" slop out of the set up. It can be purchased at most aircraft supply stores: http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/aircraft-bolts/bolt-an6-3-8-24-/an6-26a
Here is the stock on left and the fully upgraded truck on the right.
Has anyone experienced cut bushings from the hanger slots in these trucks?
There you have it…Thanks dude…Tons of good info…
Dude! I have that exact board heading to my house in the mail. Do you like the board? I’m a big fan of Rayne but have never had a top mount with a kick made by them. Pretty excited to have as a free ride setup and possibly add power to it in the next year or two. Would you use it as an esk8? Would be very interested to gain your insight on this matter. Sorry to be off topic.
well I love it. Used it for most events/races.
Concave is almost perfect, put a W implant at the back. It is a big deck, ans has a lot of curves. Don’t think it suits esk8 much. Also its somewhat overkill for a esk8 in my opinion. Its a sick sports utility tool for sure. I put a foot stopper as I usually do and with the shape it has feel super responsive.
Go for some cast rogues (cheap), bear kodiaks (medium), or some Ronin prec. (expensive) and you have a setup that you will never outclass.
10/10. All time top 3 of decks i have owned/ridden.
Awesome. Almost bought the kodiaks, but have some surf rodz rpk’s ill be throwing on her for the time being.
Thanks for the feedback brother!
@Alphamail, Just received WFB Cannon and FatCone bushings, like you recommended on TB218. On TB218 they fit perfectly and on @Brakeboard brake truck they also fit but I had to put cannon round side against the hanger. I don’t have a chance to test due to weather.
They are great quality
Mark 48 | Landyachtz Evo 39" 2018 | FatBoy TB218 Drivetrain | Fatboy SolidCore WheelHubs | 6.5" Trampa | APS 8072S165kv 6kW | FatBoy HV ESC | 18S10P Panasonic PF
Thanks, great info.
What’s the difference between barrels and canons?
Just the diameter. The Canon runs about .010" to .015" larger diameter than the Barrels
Any tips on removing the kingpin from Calibers? Before I take a hammer to it… it seems pressed in.
Also any tips on removing the pivot cups? I tore it up with pliers trying to get it out.
get a flat-head screwdriver and pry it out
as for the kingpin…
Manufacturer states the kingpin is pressed in & doesn’t have replacement kingpins listed in the webshop.
You could heat the base plate with a hot air gun, maybe cool the kingpin with a can of butane and try to press it out with a drill press and a jig to hold the baseplate/kingpin vertical… lot of work?
I wouldn’t apply too much force with a hammer, sometimes a clean in a ultrasonic bath can help (if you have one). I’ve had kingpins that wont budge. 15m in the ultrasonic bath and they fall out with a tap. But they are designed to be removed.
Hmmm… seems like double barrels in the Calibers will have to wait.
I squeezed it in a vice, not a budge.
I must have missed it but why do you want to remove the king pin?
Because I’m trying to install the Riptide double barrels, need the extra length.
I bought some of the kingpin’s you linked from the aviation supply store. They’re longer than stock.
You dont want to mess up hanger on baseplate geometry by using tall barrels on trucks that arent designed for them.
Theres no benefit and the hanger wont sit flush on the boardside bushing.
This is actually a design flaw of orangatang nipples as well…
won’t work dude, the pivot won’t line up and you will increase the angle of the hangar…
So barrel + cone is necessary on Calibers?