Hello,
I am on caliber 2 44’s, 180mm width. Running stock blood orange 89a barrels, truck feels very loose and hard to control at speed no mater how much weight I put on front. I am on a landyachtz Evo falcon, half inch riser, 97mm flywheels, I get some wheel bite in the front when I try to u turn in narrowish subdivison streets. I weigh around 200.
I’m not exactly sure what I want, so I was thinking maybe a variety or a starting point and going from there. Thank you!
Hey @Brdchris do you know what the functional baseplate angles are when mounted to the deck? I cannot find the specs on the Falcon, they just say wedged and dewedged. Most likely the problem is with stock bushings all around, the rear truck is easier to turn than the front since the rear has so much more leverage over the trucks due to the dewedging. This is the opposite of what you want. The front should be easier to turn than the rear to balance out the system.
I think it’s 15 degrees wedge up front and 15 dewedge our back on 45 degree baseplate. So that would be 60/30 right?
I’ve read you talk about that before earlier in this thread, should I do harder/larger bushings out back or change my wedge?
It does have a funny forklift feel to me, I don’t mind it so much but it’s definetly there. Also mind you I’m new to this. That’s why I’m not exactly sure what I want out of the board yet.
If it is 15 degrees than you are ending up at 59/29 which is fine with the right bushing setup, do you have any cone bushings of the same durometer laying around as the Blood Orange to do some testing with? Or perhaps some harder or larger bushings to replace the rear with? Bottom line is you need to boost the shape or durometer of the rear bushings to resist the enhanced leverage there.
I have some grey 96-98a barrels I was given but I’m not sure if that’s too hard. I don’t mind buying a few to try out.
I have measured my Landyachtz Evo deck and the angles are closer to 9 degrees.
Before you buy anything, throw at least one of those in the rear to see the effect. Start with the rear boardside bushing. If the feel improves add the second one so we can see if that is overkill.
Awesome will do! Thanks so much
Hi @Alphamail. I’m 105kg pushing 110 with gears, caliber II 160mm 50°. For cruising 40kph max. What’s the best bushing combo should I use? And I’m having trouble like this too…
https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/front-truck-floating-wheel/65111?u=gigoy
Thanks!
I had 0 issues with the krank magnum nor the pivot cups. They are not perfectly flush with the top of the baseplate but maybe .5 mm higher.
This is ofc a TB 218mm truck. As far as Im aware my 2nd set is identical tho I haven’t installed the new pivots there yet.
PS anyway to get those suckers out without destroying them in the process?
Hey @gigoy, there are a couple of things you can do. I took a quick look at the Wheel lift thread and yes, you have well exceeded the recommended compression of virtually any bushing on the market.
If you have read any of this thread you understand that symmetrical setups are inherently less stable than split setups. Are you open to changing your rear truck by dewedging it or replacing the rear base plate with a Caliber 44?
We do not make them to remove but if you are careful, needle nose pliers of nn vice grips can do the trick, you need to have a light touch and be patient. Compressed air can also remove them
Yeah but only if I could find someone selling or trading a 44 degree baseplate.
Aside from changing the rear baseplate, are there other options I can do in the meantime?
An angled riser for the rear truck to change angle from 50 to 45. It does the same job as different base plate. You can cut this from a piece of wood with a saw or some thick plastic maybe. (-10deg might be easier to cut by hand) 3D print. Or local skate shop might have them if they deal lots of long board stuff.
If you have both cupped washers and flat washers, run cupped washers in the rear and flat in the front for less rear steering relative to the front.
Run the rear truck a little tighter than the front. But dont go crazy.
You can strengthen your ankle and calf muscles to give more control. I dont know the best way to do this apart from time on the board but if you have the trucks really loose it forces you to control your feet more. So maybe run the trucks really loose and ride around at slow speed till your muscles hurt. Repeat until you have that sweet muscle memory and tone.
When going at high speed put more weight over the front truck then the rear.
Since I think your bushings are shot, I suggest replacing then with something more suitable for your weight. At 105 KG, I suggest KranK 96a Canons or Barrels in the front and a Barrel or Canon / Chubby rear with the Chubby on the bottom (boardside). This set up will simulate a split setup and will also work on an actual split setup. Tune with flat and cupped washers. With RipTide, the starting point for compression is tight enough to remove all the slop out of the stack and you can still turn the top bushing by hand with some effort. With KranK, from that point you have two full turns of adjustment at your disposal so a max of 2 threads showing. If you need to go further, you need harder or bigger bushings in more positions
Hi again @Alphamail, Just want to know if the WFB pivot cups, krank magnum and cannon bushings I initially ordered for TB218 would be compatible with surfrodz RKP or TKPs? 
hi @Alphamail, thanks in advance for the help.
TB 218mm trucks cone\barrel stock bushings (unknown durometer). they are really hard to turn for me, im 130lbs and if i make them loose they get super unstable also i dont feel like they come to center.
i want a stable ride (30-35 mph). if it affect the turning radius im wiiling to give up some of that. awful roads where i ride thus the wanted stability in case of a big crack on the road or something like that. setup mostly for commuting to work when weather is favorable and nice group rides on weekends.
-using evo 39 with 1\2" risers and @psychotiller six shooters pnummies, no wheel bite.
-again 130lbs with nothing but helmet knee and elbow pads.
@Wraith, Canons should work but the Magnums will notwork in the RKP’s but possibly the TKP’s. SZ has not shown any desire to make improvements to their trucks for years so I rarely use them anymore.
Hey @Dazeto, as a starting point take both Barrels and put them on the back truck and run both cones up front. You are currently running a symmetrical bushing setup on an asymmetrical board. The rear has a lot more leverage over the trucks than the front so you need to compensate for for the base plate differential. Try that first then report back and use cupped washers all around and when you make any changes such as this, be aware of wheel bite!
