Bushing Set up Help

ESK8 Mechanics
6

Never tried that, good info for anyone using TB clones.

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Actually intrested in your opinion since I am still not completely happy with my freeride set up. Thanks a lot for your effort and input !!

1.) Bear Kodiak, 45 degree baseplates, 180mm hanger$

2.) Back truck: 94a Riptide KranK TallBarrel board side / 90a Tal Barrel Fruit Punch Ronin OEM Bushings streetside Front truck : 94a Tall barrel Fruit Punch Ronin OEM Bushings board side / Tall Barrel Bear bushing 90a streetside

3,)A little bit more freedom, more responsiveness and smoother carve. Also easier time seting up slides.

4.)Freeride / DH. No technical slides, mostly fast freeride.

5.) Rayne otherside v2, not wheelbites ever. even with 76mm wheels

6.)85kg

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Here’s that post. The baseplates between the 180 and 218 are the same…I have them in hand

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Thanks for the link @Deckoz I missed that one.

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Alrighty, I’ll gladly take this offer!

  1. Torqueboards caliber clone, same measurements as Caliber II 50s

2)stock bushing

  1. I’d like something more stable at speed

  2. mostly commute

  3. I’m using the redemberboards shuggah deck. There’ll probably be wheelbight with the 6’ pneumatics I want to start running, there’s no wheelbite with my MBS 101s

  4. 145 lbs

Thanks!!

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Thank you @Youssless:

We developed a compound called KranK for just this type of situation. There are several ways to approach what you are confronted with. First of all realize and appreciate that it takes a high amount of skill to go fast on 50 degree trucks as they are inherently unstable. Caliber II’s address this a bit with zero rake making them a bit less responsive so they are more stable than a raked truck at the same angle base plate under most conditions. I would suggest as a “Synthetic Split” set up where you use bushings to simulate a de-wedged rear truck thus taking some of the steering input out of the rear. This is similar to what you are doing running the front truck looser. I would suggest RipTide KranK 90a Canons up front top and bottom, starting with flat washers and a KranK 90a Canon / KranK 90a Chubby rear with a cupped washer on the Canon and a the big flat that comes with the Chubby. Experiment with cupped washers up front to fine tune the feel. The KranK compound is our highest rebound compound and it is very responsive to clamp pressure of the king pin nut. The starting point for compression of the bushing stack is to tighten the nut just to the point where you can still turn the roadside bushing in the bushing seat by hand then adjust from there. The Canon is slight larger diameter than our Barrel so it fits the Caliber bushing seat better since the seat is a bit sloppy.

Whenever you change you busing set up, remember to check for wheel bite before you ride.

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Interesting set up, is this an eSk8?

In any event with at least 3 different brands of bushings in your set up: RipTide, Ronin and Bear, I suggest focusing on one compound and maintaining the split duros. Try running KranK 90a/93a TallBarrels front and back. With a full Krank set up you can run it with a loose center and dive hard into it when initiating a slide and it will support you well.

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OK @anorak234 some notes about the Torqueboard 50 degree V2 trucks and what RipTide fits where for upgrade purposes. The pivot cup that fits is our Indy 96a WFB pivot. It is dimensionally very close to the stock pivot and goes into the base plate a little easier than we like to see but it is tighter on the hanger pivot nose so it does make for a functionally good tight fit when assembled. As for bushings, the trucks will accept our standard longboard bushings both boardside and roadside. The hanger will take the following shapes that we make: Cone, Barrel, Canon, and FatCone. The tightest fit in the hanger is the Canon bushing which is slightly larger diameter than our Barrel. Additionally, the king pin length does not leave much room so you may elect to not use a boardside washer at all when using two .6" tall bushings or you can run our Street series bushings in the roadside position since they are .5" tall compared to the longboard series which is .6" tall

Additional notes on stability: With a symmetrical set you (50 front and rear) running a tighter rear than the front goes a long way to make a more stable set up coupled with keeping more than 50% of your weight over the front truck.

Since the Torqueboard 50 degree V2 trucks do not fit our Chubby bushing, the best next thing is the RipTide FatCone to run in the boardside position in the rear coupled with a RipTide StreetBarrel roadside. For the front I suggest a Canon boardside and StreetBarrel roadside. The boardside bushings in this set up are .6" tall and the roadside are .5" tall so you can run washers in all positions giving you additional options for dialing in the set up with flat verses cupped washers. For your weight I suggest KranK 87a.all around. The Fatcone is the key here to changing the response of the rear truck to a progressive ramp up in resistance where the front is a linear response

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Thank you so much! You’ve given me a fair bit of info that I’d not likely stumble upon when searching. I’ll take this all on board and get ordering tonight :blush:. I’m happy to pick up other trucks if you have any you could recommend for my need?

Thanks again for a very detailed and informative answer.

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No its a freeride set up for fun. Tried to get myself to like diffferent set ups. So far nothing pulls me away from my pocket ace bombsquad with prolights though.

Thank for the input, will try that out.

Thank you.

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  1. 180mm Caliber II fifty

  2. Stock bushings

  3. More rebound & stability

  4. Stable turning with speed

  5. Bustin sportster 33", top mounted trucks. Wheelbite is quite likely with 80mm kegels

  6. 64kg (141lb)

Thank you so much for this generous offer!

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This or baseplate splits even by a couple degrees offset the front and rear truck so they don’t oscillate off of one another like they would at the same angle. Certainly helps with speed stability.

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Base plate splits are definitely better than a synthetic split, Usually the place to start is with a lower degree rear base plate or de-wedging the rear to make the king pin angle closer to perpendicular to the ground. This can get tricky since all the power is driving the rear wheels in most cases and the wiring may need to be modified.

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That is true… But even the smallest split can make a board stable…haha ever seen someone go 35mph+ on a Loaded vanguard? While.i don’t suggest it because the vanguard is a noodle, a 46r/50f split makes it stable. I could barely hit 20’s when I had the same angles due to how much torsional flex it has and the front and rear oscillating off of one another.

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Thanks @Apolo

The Bustin sportster 33 is easy to modiify to prevent wheel bite since it is Bamboo / Maple construction so you might want to consider making some changes to the deck. You can get more rebound by using either RipTide APS or KranK with KranK being our highest rebound compound to date. For your you weight on a symmetrical set up I would go with a Canon / FatCone set up in either APS 87.5a or KranK 87a. The FatCone Boardside will give you a lot more support and progressively ramp up resistance the further you lean. This works well for set ups that have a potential for wheel bite. Like I said, if you can modify the deck to eliminate the wheel bite issue first, you will be a lot happier in the long run. If you want a really stable, high performance set up, you may want to consider running a Caliber II 44 degree rear to take some of the steering input out of the back. If you do that, I would suggest running a Canon / Canon front and a Cannon / Chubby rear in the same compound /druos listed above. Since the rear is at 44 degrees, you have greater leverage over the bushings so you need to use either a larger bushing (suggested) or a harder bushing in the rear

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  1. Torqueboards 218mm 50 degree cone/barrel. Drop-through.

  2. Stock bushings

  3. Currently stable up to 25. I want the same stability with more rebound and a tighter turning radius. I have the back tightened down more than the front.

  4. 15-20mph carving/cruising

  5. Blank 39" drop-through. No wheelbite. http://www.skateshred.com/index.php/wholesale-blank-longboard-decks/canadian-maple-wood-drop-through-blank-deck.html

  6. 160lbs

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I have been using the fatcone bs on my rear truck with good effect on my traction, it works much better for me than a chubby because it allows more turn but retains the stably with more urethane, it acts almost like a taller pushing and I like taller bushings…The Krankz are the best for carrying any amount of weight and retaining rebound, I have about 235lbs on my deck when I’m riding and I still want a lively feel so I can carve and shred and the high rebound does that. I tried the WFB as well and they seems a little less lively, but super stable and comfortable…I tend to run harder duro on the bs of every truck and softer on the rs to tune the lean, I think of the boardside bushing (bs) to be the support of the deck and road feel, while the road-side bushing is used to tune the lean and carve, it depends on the bushing seat shape though and different trucks are different trucks, the surfrodz bushing seat almost provides a progress feel when using just a barrel while the same barrel in a Caliber will feel pretty constant and linear, best bet to to trial and error till you tune to the feel YOU like…it is sort of subjective that way after you get the functionality dialed or close to what you need…

I don’t ride anything else besides Riptide bushings now (a downhiller named Jake “wingnut” Knutson turned me onto them), they have one for everything. I have recently tried the new Hardcore barrels and they have a nice rebound as well, but no where near the options Riptide has when it comes to fine tuning. Ace trucks are the only bushings I leave stock, they just fit me well and my weight out of the box, I sometimes use Bones hardcore on tkp trucks for bowls and things when the stocks are just too soft for my fat manatee like body and I need to check out the shorter street truck options from Riptide as well.

I have some in the Liquid Attack tkp trucks and they are really nice in that truck, I wonder how they work in Bennet, Tracker, Independent…I have run Riptide barrels and fatcones and chubbies, in Arsenal, Avenue, Caliber and Paris, and they just feel better than anything I have tried. Blood orange seems rubbery, Venom seems mushy, Reflex are nice but limited to a few great uses like Bennett, and the Nipples are a weird size I only use in the Bolzen trucks where they fit better than anything else, they are like a street truck where the bs bushing is taller than the rs and somewhere between a tall and normal barrel…modern rkp tall bushing trucks like the Savants, Arsenals, Ronins, Roques and others are the best turning trucks I have used when it comes to bushings, you cannot argue with more lean and bushing in your trucks, you cannot have enough of a good thing, the fatcone comes into play perfectly here, and when you have more room for a bushing and add a fat cone, you can use a much softer bushing that has the same stability as a smaller one, and lean further with more stability…There’s also a lot of people using the bushing seat bushings now, many people who used a spherical bearing on the kingpin are now opting for a tuned bushing in it’s place and the downhill guys are going crazy over Roques for this reason, they are a cheap way to experience a tall bushing and insert…it gives you more to tune, but makes up for the lack of queenpin and helps keep the truck centered and from shifting…I love all this new technology, it’s a great time to be a skater, I hope people can start to understand it all and see what I am talking about. Without tuning to your weight and preference these advantages are lost. I recommend just dumping a 100 bucks on bushing and forming a little kit like I did, that way I have a box with all the options I might ever need for any skateboard build…

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Thanks @Colson003

You are battling is a couple of things regarding your poor turning radius, first you are using a drop through deck and second your trucks are wider than your deck. Both of those features are killing the leverage you can exert over you trucks. You could achieve a much tighter turning radius by simply top mounting your trucks in place of dropping them through the deck. If that is not an option, go with a RipTide KranK 87a StreetCone / Canon front and a StreetBarrel / Canon rear with cupped washers all around. Due to the relatively short king pin of the Torqueboards 218mm 50 degree trucks, running the Street sized bushing on top which are .5" tall and the regular longboard bushings on the bottom which are .6" tall, allows you to use washers in all 4 positions and therefore greater tunability

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Hi @Alphamail, I’m building a new board. It’s going to be a Landyachtz Evo deck. I have a set of TB trucks to accommodate the two 6374 motors but was also considering the surf rods from psychotiller. I’m 6ft 6 and 200lbs, reasonable eboard experience and loads of push longboard experience. (no “real” downhill experience) Snowboarder and surfer for years. I wondered if you have experience of these decks and could point me in the right direction. I’m imagining 1/2" risers as the enclosure is 25mm. Looking for stability…

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Hey @bigben, the Evo is a legendary DH deck so it should be quite stable out of the gate since the front is wedged and the rear is already de-wedged 15 degrees. Regarding truck choice you may want to review what is said regarding what the deck was designed for before you build: http://reviewlongboards.com/landyachtz-evo-review/

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