BullyDeck_37 Inch Drop Down deck Integrated Enclosure...Designing and Gauging interest for GB šŸ˜‰

I hope so, I am doing just to have a really stealthy deckā€¦ :stuck_out_tongue:

Oh no. I would love for it to work with 6x2 pneumatic. You have to ride it to realize the difference. For short ride, thane is nicer, but when going the distance and on dirt or country roads with cracks and stuff; Pneumatic is a must.

yeh I believe you. You get an amazing feeling with it. Anyhow I think itā€™s totally possible to modify it. Maybe not untill that point but the lid is still far away.

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:wink: BullyDeckATredrims

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What the hangar length BTW (the aluminum portion only). I use tb218 so itā€™s 218mm.

itā€™s a standard 180mm Paris but I placed the tyre wider to simulate a 218 TB truck.

I have 226mm between the two tyres (inner side) and 326mm from the outer.

If you need to test fit something, I have bergmeister wheels I could drop off (and abec 107, maybe even my mbs wheels) That CF version is very nice!

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Thatā€™s nice! Thank you. I do have 90mm and 97 mm, but would be cool to test the other wheels too. My main concern are the AT wheels. For that either I make another version of the deck or design a riser to fix the problem. I do not have experience with AT set up, but what folks do in case of drop down deck? Raiser, angled raiser? The deck is based on a landyachz switchblade 36 inch so same wheel bite. The carbon fiber version would be awesome but probably increases the price. I want to keep it as low as possible. I want it to be a sick deck for the community, thatā€™s it. Then people can always add it later eccā€¦

It now looks great ! Nice to see you managed to tweak the deck according to our feedback :fire:

Here I found some old work I had in the trunk, in case youā€™d like more ideas :beers: It was a dropthrough topmount lid deck !

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Thanks man ans nice deck. I would also go for a lid on top but the drop down makes everything more complicated thst I think a bottom lid is more practice. Plus I do not really like the idea that the thinner surface where I am staining is just above the battery. One solution to use the top lid would be 2mm of aluminium. Thst I think is strong enough but in case you bend it a bit, the deck is ruined. Teh problem that I should make the aluminium shaped in another factory I guess. That would increase the price a lot. I want to make a deck for myself and then more then glad to share it with few people interested. At the end the bottom lid will just result with small m3 screws or maybe an industrial velcro. Same for the top lid.

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Does someone know a company capable of pressing and making decks in EU? I would like to keep here instead of offshore it to China. Itā€™s not gonna be cheap anyway to make it.

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I see what you mean, too thin is worrysome thatā€™s right. Mine missed a central pillar btw, didnā€™t spend enough time to refine it haha

Yet if you check this pic (how do you make these gorgeous renders btw thatā€™s insane)

Wood thickness is pretty thin at the battery area ; maybe if you can do the same layout you already have (with the central woodbar reinforcement as a pilar) but close the bottom and open the top, you may be able to still get the same result and strength. Make a top lid curved and thick enough and you donā€™t need an alu tray underneath anymore.

Now itā€™s just an alternative & not really needed idea, your current deck looks already great and functional too :sunglasses:

Shape of your deck is also pretty stiff IMO (bending the side walls will be really tough) !

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thanks for the advice. The thickness above the battery is what I discuss with the factory. They suggest the minimum thickness to leave since I am gonna add fiberglass layer to make it strong. Yes the side frame would be really strong and also all around is the central part the weaker point, thatā€™s why the central wall. I see your point of the top lid and indeed it is feasible but it will require more work I guess and so more money. itā€™s not a simple concave you have the cleft in front ecc, while underneath I menage to have flat surface, way easier to make it right. Last thing on top I would see the need of add a lot of screws all around the edges, so everytime you are gonna need to open you will hate me :joy:I think that underneath the cover would be only too protect the hardware, so everything would be secure to the upper part with velcro or whatever people want to use and probably a velcro o 3 screws on the side and 1-2 front/rear would be plenty. Now I have to think how to do the cable management. I am lending toward only make space in the central wall and maybe for the motor phase wires, although if someone want to use a diagonal configuration, single motor ecc he will need to drill new holes and what worse close unused one. Same for the charging port. The central wall for sure the rest, not sure. No personal I think. I was actually thinking of making 2 small windows and place the waterproof net to stop water and debris while allowing air to go through to cool down the components.

For CAD/CAM I use Fusion360, I learnt from YouTube tutorials :wink:

Edit: sorry for being confusing, but I was walking with the dog and writing. Didnā€™t work out really well :sweat_smile:

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i dont know what your knowledge towards fiberglass is, but i watched some good videos and basicly you need bidiagonal on top and the underside to create a box to counter torsion forces and Unidirectional Fiberglass for the bottom going with the grain to strengthen against bending forces from above.

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Thanks man for the information. If you can link me the videos I will watch them for sure. I leave the company think about how to make it as good as possible, but I like to know everything about what I am doing, so I was looking to some videos ā€œhow to press decksā€ ecc, but didnā€™t find anything fiberglass related yet.

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It is sadly in german. He also didnt give any information towards how much you need in g/cmĀ² . But i read that somewhere around 400g/cmĀ² give a good stiffness, mind this is for longboards without any canals. Tricky stuff indeed. Maybe ask @Hummie. Since his deck is a composite aswell, maybe he can provide more info towards this. Question is, are you going to build a press or vacuum it. Some of his videos have autogenerated subtitles, so give it a shot. Search his channel for more videos.

I did this research to buy me a cheap deck and give it the stiffness i want to protected my enclosure from cracking.

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Well if I would have time and space I would definitely build a manual press, but I am going to offshore it to a company. I think that I will never reach without experience the same level of people doing it full time job. Plus I am making fun DD systems, that takes already all my extra time. This deck is something I always wanted and why not give it a try.

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Thanks to @mishrasubhransu we can now see a new 12s4p solution on this board. Since his module are a mix of NESE and @Winfly, I am pretty sure Winflyā€™s modules would work too. 4p modules are placed 1mm apart and would need the external soldering of the series connections. That in case the central wall has to stay for rigidity concerns. Pretty pretty cool! If @mishrasubhransu do not mind, I am going to modify a bit the module to make it, from my point of view, stronger.

BullyDeckCompressedpack BullyDeckCompressedpackzoom

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That looks really good. They are massive pain in the ass to assemble though. Try this one image

Yeah, go ahead. I had made them with just enough material to work, so stronger would be better.

BTW, how are they going to hang from the deck? Thought of any good mounting points?

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This is really nice, I really like the ATB treatment, will be looking to get in on this for sure

what lead times are you looking at after pushing the design through to the factory assuming the sample works out ok?

The 21700 cells will be great to have

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