I could use some pens 
Wow interchangeable tips would be awesome.
Btw I set power to max on the soldering iron and it’s still not hot enough its probably my adaptor I’ll try another one I have later for an older power hungry laptop I have.
Check the label on the power brick. Want 19+v and about 60+watts 70+watts for max heat.
EDIT i was reviewing the official page at https://blog.naver.com/aulakiria/220992039512
There’s a photo saying ~35v, and some text that says 19v or greater, 80w.
The T12 tips are for Hakko FX-951, and official specs for the iron are:
24v (possibly AC), 70w.
The station itself is spec’ed for 75w.
http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx951_set.html#productNav
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Well shit I’m sold. How does one go about ordering one of these bad asses. I need to finally build a battery for my Trampa.
Hey amigo. The info is at the first post. I copy/paste for you:
Do you have a decent 3s lipo? You need a good one with high C burst. We are recommending 5000 mah and 60c real burst+ Hobbyking graphene and nanotech work flawless.
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Gauging interest here. I have access to about 10-12 of these bad boys. They’re prefect for these spot welders.
Not looking to charge big money, like shipping and maybe $10? Still trying to figure if it’s worth it.
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Wow that’s big. I haven’t done a full battery yet but I spot welded with testing about 50 times in about 10min and it didn’t heat up at all, I have the heat sinks and the fan but I have not installed them yet.
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Just put it on an old processor hestsink, much simpler and works like a charm
Also how does welding 0.3mm thick nickel go with this, I have a turnigy heavy duty 4ah 60-120c battery and kinda worried to order 20meters of it and not to be able to weld it
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When I did my battery I had 2 layers in paralelle with 3x welds each. Thats 576 welds for paralelle only and then i used 8x on the series connection with 3welds on each end so thats 576 welds there. When you get quicker at it and ambient is high it’s increasing quickly. If you weld slowly it might work but I would rather strap some cooling on it instead of breaking it due to heat. This was with 0.2mm strip and 4S 9000mAh 65C.
The problem once cooling of the electronics is sorted is that the tips get to hot to touch and they get soft 
Next job is to make a second set of the tips…
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I use fans to cool my unit. I used small heatsinks when i started… Nice but not enough. I see some users succeded with huge heatsinks. I have a very high opinion about them but the size matters for me. It’s funny…my wife says the same… Dunno why. In my experience slow jobs on cool weather need no cool at all, fast Jobs need cooling, and copper needs xtreme kewl. Depends on the thickness and number of welds/minute. Everyone has to find the right path.
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I just used a small fan I had kicking around and a “AA” battery pack. I was able to weld continuously for the most part. Or as long as I needed.
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Nice setup but you got a 5v in the board for that. Not continuous tho. It works only when overheat setting is reached. Not sure which is best.
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Anything over .2mm feels risky for the cell regardless of the welder. It might work well but tiny margin of error, and the cell gets hot.
IMO the cells will get hotter when being used on our boards than from 4 small welds if it heats the ends of the cells to 60celsius or whatever it will dissipate and the whole cell will be at like 30 or lower but nvm, wont risk buying 10meters and not being able to weld it
maybe i find someone with some extra strip here 
I can send you some meters on monday
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I just recently purchased 5 meters of .2x25mm pure nickel for some double stack spot welding. I feel like it will cut time and be more robust. Lmk what you guys think of using wide nickel
How are you going to use it on 18650 cells? EDIT: On the series connections right? I get it now
Going to use the 25mm wide nickel to spot weld the double stack P group packs and then use 10 gauge wire for the S connections cause I need it to be a bit flexible.
Be VERY carefull with those flexy packs, they went up in flames a lot of times on here