Boss level custom spot welder

Nickel on nickel can be harder than nickel on steel. I make the welds on the very same previous spot to help It stick. As long as It works It is ok if you have to rise the ms.

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ok… so i got batteries finally…and got to doing some testing with the welder… try some nickel on nickel like everyone else…test times… checking this n that… so a couple questions to make sure my mind is right…

1- the multi stage spot welding setting…i dont know if i understand it 100% this is if you want to rip down a line real quick weld after weld right?? but it goes to 6x… so does that mean you could only rip off 6 quick welds before youd need to break for a sec…and then how does that relate, if at all, to the auto weld wait time?

2 - no burning… so is the best way to incrementally increase the weld time on a piece of test nickel over a bare surface (cardboard, wood, whatever other non metal surface) until scorching appears from the underside? or topside?

if anyone needs more info im using this strip for my build:

i feel like this is bit thicker than the nickel that comes with the kit…

and this battery from HK

08 AM

TIA

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Mm that battery has a tiny burst. I Hope It works. Multistage makes several pulses in a row the first one prepares the nickel and then you finish the job. Usually X2 is enough. The courtesy nickel strips sent by Lee are 0.1 plated. Are meant to be tested. Not good for our batteries. Use at least 0.15. pure is better. Test those strips on a Blade. When you see black marks underside you should stop increasing ms. If you Burn or make holes upside you are destroying It. Decrease ms. They must stick firm but the metal and so the cell must not take damage. Find the balance.

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I use this Lipo, it`s working perfect, with lots of power : https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-6000mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-pack-xt-60.html

I use nanotech too. They have REAL C ratings. The rest of the packs at hobbyking are somewhere between exaggerated and mere líes. The best so far are nanotech and graphene. Any Big pack with high burst should work fine.

I use graphene on my racing quads and Trampa MTB , best lipo ever…

anyone know where to get a welding attachment with xt-60 connector and new tips, i buggered mine up today…

You mean a Pen? Do It your own. It’s easy to do. You can also ask Lee to sell you some.

Hello @rojitor, unfortunately ATM I only have a 4s Lipo battery, but I plan to work only on 0.15mm nickel, according to your first post, 4S could be dangerous for cells/welder and could spit a lot of sparks.

Looking at the options, on the welder setup you can change the value of lipo voltage, I wonder if it does mean that the maximum voltage max can limited? For instance, would it be possible to limit the maximum voltage of a 4S battery to only 11.8V to act as a 3s?

Sorry if this has been asked before.

I believe the voltage setting is only for the alarm. The mosfets are opening or closing over time so it can’t do anything with the voltage by design. Voltage in is going to be voltage out over X time.

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That makes sense thanks @minim

No. Voltage can’t be límited. 4s is dangerous if you use high flux times. For 0.15 you will need very low ms so no dangerous at all. It will be way more difficult though. You are a very experienced builder so i think you can máster It in no time. Just make some testing and you will be fine.

Anyone know where to get cables for making the pen. Mine tips are are so bad unit is not useable :anguished: It sparks bad

Are the points touching each other? If that’s the case you are making the short before the nickel and the weld will not happen. You can reuse the 8awg wire and replace the points. Just desolder them and add new copper points. Or shorten them if you still have some travel. One soul copper rod 1-1.5mm Will make good points.

Solder this and add some PVC shrink and you are ready to go. Ask Lee to sell you more if this troubles you

Just use a old stock cpu heatsink, it works wonders, even without a fan put some paste and your golden, all that for a 2$ on ebay (probably)

if the battery is able to provide enough amps on that voltage, it should work like a 3s imo

pictures? Maybe you just need to hit the tips with sandpaper?

@rojitor how to take this apart to replace the metal standoffs with nylon ones?

If your machine didn’t fail no need to do It. I personally do not plan to do It as metal is better than nylon and i had no shorts. If you really want to do It @Minim and @Silverline have done It.

I had to cut the pins between the two pcb’s, and solder them together again, after i replaced the spacers