And way way sooner than expected
I can put a bare finger pressing the electrodes down against the cell? I see it done but freaks me out and want to confirm its OK. What settings u recommend for my â5milâ (.12mm) copper at 16 volts? And I guess 4 welds is good or even three. Thanks for your help. Sexiest electronics Iâve had!
Side note: what else is this tool good for?
I vaguely remember reading something bout tungsten tips for welding copper can ne1 confirm if this is worth trying. Cos it not lik i have tungsten tips lying around in fact i wldnt even know⌠Actually new google search it is always good place to start
Spot welders are not electrically charged because they use low voltage (30v or less). You can work with your bare hands. I recommend a nickel plate three times (six points). I do not know how to work with copper.
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if I had a sweaty hand maybe I could get zinged I think. iâll wear a glove.
looking at the what someone said on endless-sphere long ago about what current is acceptable for what thickness and resistance, what do you think about this chart :
how much strip of nickel or even copper are people doing? I was thinking Id fold some 30m wide .12mm copper to get within 50amps and in the âoptimalâ setting on the chartâŚbut rather not. rather do one strip of .12mm copper at 15mm wide and thinking most people arenât getting as much on as the chart showsâŚbut maybe itâs worth it.
but how can you practice on this thing, is a box cutter good? similar resistance steel? and then my box cutter is already covered in pock marks already and a file doesnât allow me to get it as smooth as a cell.
what size nickel are you doing?
Yes you can use your bare finger on it since it is pvc shrinked. Nevertheless you WILL NOT bear the heat at 16v. The pen gets really hot welding copper. Glasses and gloves are mandatory. I recommend you to stick a thin piece of wood, plasticard etc⌠on that spot in order to resist the heat. Also do not do it all in a row. Let the pen cool down every now and then. Refuel the lipo several times and let both machine and pen cool down. Have you modded the boss? At 16v it will reach 50° celsius in the blink of an eye. Cooling is mandatory for copper and recommended for nickel.
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The packs I did with 0.1 copper are brutal. I wouldnât bother making them any thicker. For sk8 0.15 nickel is enough if you do front bend. For side bend (only one strip for series and parallel) iâd use several strips. I use 0.2 pure as standard. The price difference is meaningless while the performance improves a lot.
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Btw notice that the chart by nobuo talks about copper WIRE. The chart made by matador is about copper tabs. Use that one for copper reference .
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I recommend the same. I want you to know that I am not encouraging people to use copper with your machine. I proved it possible yet I said many times that is way more dangerous and difficult to work with and I do not recommend it at all.
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I did a video for you @Hummie I have no time and no new blades. The video has a terrible sound full of noise. No edition at all. Thatâs the best i can offer right now. I am very busy. This is how i weld 0.1 copper
I hope it helps
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So I ordered a 19v laptop power supply but the DC connector was the wrong size. Does anyone know the dimensions of the 19v connector I need?
For the solder iron 5.5 jack This for example: [aliexpress ](IMC Caliente 10 Unids CĂĄmaras CCTV 2.1mm x 5.5mm Hembra Adaptador de Enchufe Macho de AlimentaciĂłn de CC http://s.aliexpress.com/7VFFVFbq?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard (from AliExpress Android))
Turns out a friend had what I needed. I just tried it out and I am very very impressed! It gets up to temperature so quickly!
@rojitor damn I cant hear your video. I really wish I could and it sounds like you say a lot. if you can turn it up on your side possiblyâŚhopefully.
I used mine only 1 times, during my tests, one some component blew up with smoke ⌠
FâŚck
no more switch on âŚ
I think there was a short in it because i moved a little bit the welder when it shorted.
- Unscrew the screw,
- 6 pins (between the upper and lower pcb) desolering.
- Disassemble spot welder.
- connect the copper of the pcb. (You can use the copper of the wire)
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Yes, we exchange together by email 
I will document the repair on this forum, maybe it will be useful to others.
By count I remain skeptical about what caused this problem because I was very cautious in the use of the spot welder. Repair is not going to treat the root cause of the problem (hoping there was no damaged component).
Even if there is a problem, I want to emphasize that Lee is very available and serious in his communication. I hope to be able to find a solution by myself or we will carry out an exchange at my expense.
I still ask the question of adding a conventional fuse, not to have desoldering everything as soon as there is a problem (I am waiting for a return from Lee on this point).
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The only way Iâm getting consistent welds with my .13mm copper (against my practice steel spatula) is with the high settings of 15ms x4 (2ms). At 16 volts. Am I going to fry the welder?
I think the installation of fuse is good. However, I do not know how to make a fuse on PCB surface.
By adding a bridge made with copper wire and a fusein that bridge no ?