That warms my heart, thank you!
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Don’t worry about losing your enthusiasm! If you start to feel like you’re spending all your free time on something that still needs a lot more work (I know the feeling), take a break from working on it. Clean up any mess you’ve made and go back to doing whatever you did previously in your free time (Overwatch anyone?). Then in a few days, decide that you’re going to spend some more of your time on the project. You’ll probably feel like it’s the least fun thing you could possibly do, but just get in and start, and after a few minutes you’ll be back in the groove and enjoying working on the board again.
That’s what I do for big projects like this anyway 
You’re doing a fantastic job so far and you’ve really inspired me to clean up my build a lot 
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Sounds like great advice 
I’ll go back to Steam for a couple of days and then head back to the workbench.
I’m glad to hear it and thank you!
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Update #15
I followed @Clonkex’s advice and took some time off from the project. Instead I began working on a “DIY button box” for helicopter/jets on Arma 3. Got the all the switches mounted and glued to the front panel, so now I just need to 3D-print the box. Turns out these things are very easy to do since you can just hook it up to a “zero delay USB encoder” and the computer will recognise it as a joystick - no coding required!
The board will have to wait another week and a half since I’m going to the Faroe Islands on Monday!
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Nice, that looks great! I’ve always been a fan of custom game-specific peripherals but never tried making my own. I’ve got a 3D printer, could be a fun project to try myself
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We’ll see how useful it actually is, but I do like the idea of it! What printer do you have?
I built it myself. It’s a cartesian printer where the build plate moves on the Y axis rather than the print head. Still gotta sort out what to use on the build plate though. I’ve printed a lot of stuff on that printer but I use blue painter’s tape on the bed and prints stick waaaay too well. They’re nearly impossible to get off and the tape usually becomes part of the print. My print head is too close to the bed, though, so it’s probably squeezing the plastic into the tape 
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Maybe try a glue stick on the tape, works well for me
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On the tape, that’s an interesting idea. I tried glue stick on the build plate directly and that didn’t work. Will try, thanks
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That’s awesome What material are you printing with?
I’ve got a Simple Metal with extended X-axis and heated bed. Thought I would need the heated bed since my prints had a tendency to warp in the corners. But when I upgraded the X-axis I got a sheet of Buildtak.
And holy shiet, everything stick perfectly to it and more often than not they’re easy enough to remove It’s also pretty neat to not have to apply tape everytime I’m going to print as well, I highly recommend it!
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I’ve only printed PLA so far but my printer can easily handle the temps for more exotic materials like nylon.
I also have a heated bed but that’s an awesome suggestion about Buildtak, I totally forgot you could buy premade print surfaces like that. Already bought a sheet, very interested to try it!
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Nice! Remember to sand it between every other print. I use 400grit and then grab a propyl alcohol tissue to make sure there’s no dust Works great and is cheap in the long run!
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Update #16
Back from the Faroe Islands but now I have to get up to speed in school! I won’t be able to get back to building this week but I still wanted to make an update. So I figured I could post a parts list and prices since I have all the parts and have been getting some PM’s about it.
So here it goes! Prices does not include shipping, taxes or any other fees. Price listed is total, not per item. So “VESC x2 = 198USD” is the total cost, not per VESC.
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Loaded Vanguard. $367 | 312€ | 3000SEK
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Boosted style enclosures. $142 | 121€ | 1161SEK
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Dual hub motors from TorqueBoards. $380 | 324€ | 3107SEK
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2x TorqueBoards VESC. $198 | 168€ | 1679SEK
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TorqueBoards Vedder style anti spark switch. $60 | 51€ | 491SEK
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40x Samsung 25R. $145 | 123€ | 1181SEK
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Ebay BMS. $9 | 8€ | 79SEK
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Wii Nunchuck and reciever. $44 | 37€ | 360SEK
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Rough estimate of wires, connectors and misc. $61 | 52€ | 500SEK
Total: $1413 | 1203€ | 11558SEK
The most worthwhile purchases here, without a doubt, are the enclosures from @Eboosted and remote/reciever from @rpn314. I know I’ve praised them before, but it has made this build so much easier I don’t think I would have started if it weren’t for those guys!
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Hi. I’m building a similar e-board myself.And I was wondering where did you buy the sealing foam?
Mhv F.B
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Hi,
I bought it from my my local automotive store called Biltema. Check out any automotive store and I’m sure you’ll find it
Finner ikke den på nettsiden. Hva er den heter? Jeg bor i Norge/Oslo og vi har flere Biltema buttiker and bensinstajsoner her :).
Takk forresten. Sykt finn lonboard du har
Har tyvärr inte kvar förpackningen och jag hittar inte heller den på sidan! Men i butiken låg den jämte 12V strömbrytarna, på “Bil”. Det brukar väll se likadant i alla butiker?
Inga problem, tack själv!
Update #17
For the past month I’ve barely had any spare time even though school is over. Finally, today I had some hours to spare!
Recently a Swedish hobby/electronics store lowered their prices on one of their electric skateboard. Normally I wouldn’t even consider it, but then I noticed that I could probably remove the electronics enclosure and trucks and transplant them to my Penny.
It took about one hour to complete it! Couldn’t be happier Now we’ll see how long it lasts…
I photographed the electronics to share with you as well! While the soldering/layout looks OK, the advertised 10km/6.2miles seems a little optimistic with that battery pack.
I hope to resume building my Boosted Clone soon. I’m going to San Francisco in a month, so hopefully it will be done by then, if I don’t complete it by then I can’t see me doing it before christmas!
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Was it the hobbex esk8 ? Damn, I missed out on that one… I’ve had the same thing in mind for a while. While my DIY is super nice to ride, I sometimes just want to cruise to the grocery store or to the post office with a smaller sized board.
Is that the nickel or the penny ? How’d you work around the flanges on the bottom ?
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Yes! Are you Swedish? It’s still out for 999kr, if it holds up I’d say it’s worth it!
Yupp, that extra weight can really be off putting sometimes. This board will be my… half last mile vehichle 
It’s a Penny! Oh, I see how the pictures might be misleading now. There’s actually a lid on it! If you look at the third picture you can see the reflections of two of the six screws holding the lid in place.
Between the lid and the board there’s some padding to distribute the pressure evenly and dampen the vibrations a bit.
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