It’s gonna be sick. One question do you get wheels bite at the moment?
No bite at the moment. Why
I mean, what other options do I have?
because I am making an integrated enclosure deck based on the swithblade 36. So I was curious to know if you get wheel bite. Now that I can still change the design (https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/bullydeck-36-inch-drop-down-deck-integrated-enclosure-designing-and-gauging-interest-for-gb/82142/43?u=rey8801).
Thanks 
Two great accomplishments today. My remote is finished! (Except I’m waiting on the bolts to hold it together)
Also, I soldered my bullet connectors for my wires that go from my 3D printed risers to my (still undecided) vesc’s
I wish the unity was more readily available. Right now I’m aiming towards a couple of 4.12 flipsky singles, but I’m worried about learning how to pair them via canbus or split ppm. I’ll have to read up on it a bit more.
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Very nice. 1 question: why not using Allen head bolts for pulleys?
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These were at my local hardware store and Allen head bolts are not, atleast to my knowledge. What’s the pros and cons? Is it more common? I’m all ears for learning at this point 
Allen allow for more torque without stripping, especially if Wera Hex-Plus keys are used
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I’ll have to order some before I assemble everything finally with loctite. Thanks for the tip/suggestion.
Yeah I need to get me some of those magic hex keys 
Those Nickel plated bolts in your wheels are junk, get some hardened ones either in Aluminium or usually black in colour 
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More updates! I solved my motor mount clearance issues with 50 degree calibers as opposed to 44 degree ones. I also got longer belts so I could angle the mounts up higher.
I added a 7 degree riser pad too but it’s not needed so if I find this truck angle to be too wobbly I will swap it out for a normal riser instead.
After exploring battery options, I think I will be trying an NESE module 10s3p pack (enclosure won’t fit a 10s4p NESE)
Its either that, or just grabbing a @psychotiller 10s4p after tax returns come in 
we will see.
Looks like I’m right on time to finish this up when the weather gets warm 
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Still on track to have this done by spring 
NESE modules are printed and hardware has arrived. Ordered tabs from @agniusm and waiting on those. Cells ordered from @thisguyhere
Next up is deciding what vescs to use. I wish the unity was readily available but that seems out of the question for now.
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Cells already packed up, in the mail tomorrow
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Appreciated bud 
will likely be here before the NESE tabs I assume. I’ll hit you up (read as "annoy you via PM) with any questions. First time really doing all this from the ground up. Cheers.
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Hardware and cells have arrived! Building this 10s3p NESE battery at the moment, but I also have a @psychotiller 10s4p arriving today in the mail.
As long as the 10s4p fits nicely in the @bigben enclosure I’ll be using that and saving this NESE battery for a different build.
These NESE packs may take up a bit more room, but learning and understanding how a battery pack us assembled and monitored via BMS is knowledge you can’t put a price on.
Only thing missing is VESCs and minor wiring pieces.
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Make sure to use locktight on the screws when you mount it on the vehicle and ready for a ride. For testing, not yet needed.
I was trying to find the screws with locking both built in, but couldn’t find it in bulk. That would make a tad bit easier and less messier.
I can use something like this but it increases the length of the modules even more.
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Did you use caps on your screws? Like TPU or ninjaflex caps? Or not needed?
Nope, not needed. Unless you plan to leave long metal parts free around in the enclosure 
Haha as long as i don’t accidentally leave a hex wrench inside I should be ok