(Better than Freeboard) Bindings! finished 3d printable design in post#209!

I don’t know, it looks plenty strong enough if you use PETG I doubt you could break it, we will be testing of course!

Danile has a lot of testing, experience and qualifications in this area, there it a bolt at that point, the layers are running the right way but of course he is going to share the design which would allow you to compensate as you like

Have a look at his blog for convincing

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Ok, so here’s what I say: 20190508_151723 100g lighter for the pair

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I see how the bolts go in now. You’re right it should be plenty strong

This area is kinda free edge, so not stressed other that the bolt. In addition, this is in compression, even if it fails it’s no big deal.

That being said, material can be added at any time. We are 3d printing after all

Dani

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I did the first pair. The base plates need little redesign, the holes were too big. So I ran additional pair of smaller 4-40 bolt on the opposite sides. These aren’t structural and hold the profile from rotating on it’s axis.

Other than that 1/8" thickness seem ok. Here are some shots: 20190508_143622 20190508_143638 20190508_151557 20190508_151559 20190508_151604

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Trying different hardware today. I planned for button head, but standard socket head works as well.

Each unit is held by four 1/4-20x3/4 bolts 20190509_125640 20190509_125732

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These are looking amazing! Got my 3d printer ready to go!

Ok guys, have fun! This is alive on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3619398

Following are the instructions from thingiverse:

There are two parts to print - left and right binding pieces.

One aluminum plate to machine, I’ve added a .dxf file for this purpose. Any aluminum sheet 1/8"-1/4" (3-6mm) will work, simple 2D machining

And one 1"x1" T-slotted profile to get (2-2.5 inches long).

These profiles are widely spread and there’s a very good chance you might find enough around you. In case you don’t: https://8020.net/1010.html

I designed it to be cost effective with minimum “fancy” parts. Besides the prints and the base plate, everything else can be sourced for free (in most places) or really cheap.

Here are additional stuff needed to complete the build:

  1. 1/4-20 3/4" bolt. Each binding piece requires 4, so 8 bolts total Any head shape works (see pictures), my favorite is button head.

  2. 1/4-20 sliding T-nuts. Each binding piece requires 4, so 8 in total Examples: https://8020.net/3204.html https://8020.net/3382.html

  3. End cap. Each piece requires one, so 2 total https://8020.net/2015-plain.html

  4. 1/4-20 1/2" FLAT UNDERCUT bolt. One for each piece, 2 total. You will have to tap the central hole in the T-slotted profile for this bolt (standard practice) and do the undercut in the aluminum plate (see pictures)

  5. 4-40 FLAT UNDERCUT bolt. Each piece needs 2, 4 in total. These bolts make the T-profile stay in place and not rotate (see pictures). These don’t take any loads. The aluminum plates need to be tapped for the bolts with undercut.

The pictures in this thread are self explanatory.

And, as always, if any questions arise, I’m here, just a @ away.

If you feel like I did something right, consider showing your appreciation: paypal.me/DaniLevin

Also, special promotion, only for the weekend :slight_smile:

Whoever buys my deck will get a complete pair of bindings with it (you can even choose blue/orange color)

Enjoy, Dani

@Itsmedant thank you!!! @mmaner can you edit the title to point to this post? Thanks!

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When will we be able to buy a set?

Great work @danile Here’s a simple End Cap I designed for 80/20 T-Slot pieces, in case your like me and have bars but no end caps.

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Great, even better!

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Quick off the mark as always good one

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This is great. How about organizing a “group buy”? One person would collect all the metal parts - base plates, T-Slot pieces, all the hardware and distribute. I guess it can be pretty cheap when purchased in bulks. The parts are lightweight so shipping should be reasonable. 3D printing everyone should be able to arrange for themselves.

I’m guessing ~15-20 EUR cost of parts for two bindings. 10 EUR shipping. Make it 40 EUR shipped total and there’s room for making a small profit as well as a donation to @danile, which he surely deserves.

Who would like a set?

  • I want a set in EU
  • I want a set in US
  • I want a set somewhere else

0 voters

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I’m after some base plates, that may be the ideal way to make a donation to Dani which I wanna do, but not sure if he would like cut a few for distributing like so?

I have everything else in fact I’m trying a print right now!

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@janpom @banjaxxed guys you are awesome!

I’m so glad to be part of this community and I’m happy to deliver a product that receives such love

Thank you!

For more technical stuff

I’m not planning to start production of these, but I do have access to profiles and aluminum to make several plates on a small scale. There are several in the process of making, because I just have to see @Arzamenable with pink bindings :slight_smile:

So do contact me if you need parts and we’ll see if I can help you.

For even more technical stuff:

In US they have the 10 series, which are 1"x1" t-slot profiles. These are the most wide spread and it makes perfect sense to design with them. https://8020.net/1010.html

What is the leading series in EU? Is it 10 series like in US, or the metric 20 series, which is 20mmx20mm profiles? https://8020.net/20-2020.html Or even 25 series? https://8020.net/25-2525.html

Let me know so I can do the adjustments now, Dani

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I am deffo printing a set of these in Nylon, well done! Very nice design, elegantly simple @danile

If anyone wants these printing in the UK let me know

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I would love a set of baseplates! I can source everything else very easily

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Have you got a metric conversion for all this?

It’s very simple to do now in Fusion. Just let me know the profile you’ll be using in EU

Dani

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Ok, theres 5 of us europeans. Is the baseplate threaded at all, or does it have any 3d elements? Need to take a good look at your design

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