Don’t forget the 63mm BigFoot motors which are $55 bucks. Of course, they don’t have longer motor shafts and/or keyway and flat spots built in but solid motors. Great for dual rear.
Great thing about the BigFoot also is they have both the 50mm and 63mm mounting holes.
A 63mm for a single should always be slightly better. The main reason because of the bigger motor it can handle and disperse heat better. A 50mm will be more lightweight and as a single is more ideal for flat ground. A 63mm single for uphill would be recommending. I would recommend more along the lines of a 6374 versus a 6354 but both are still better because of the amount of heat it can disperse faster.
Of course, low KV and higher gearing for more torque is ideal if you are climbing hills on a single motor.
For complete flat ground, any of the motors should work with decent gearing and no hot motors.
If the motors are hot, just up the gearing ratio to accommodate more torque and the motors won’t be as hot.
Btw the sensored 170KV 50mm motors are now available. I just haven’t updated the website just yet.
In the end they are all fairly similar. Just depends on what you prefer and/or what features which you want added.
Example - The latest TorqueBoards 50mm 170KV Sensored Motors have a 35mm motor shaft, 25mmx3mmx4.5mm keyway, flat spots, circlip in motor housing, sensor wires, heat resistant wire sleeves. Motors more built for electric skateboards. With the longer motor shaft you can use 15mm belts which help a ton. Try going from 9mm belts to 15mm belts and you won’t bother to go back
I saw those motors once before, but before writing this thread, I couldn’t seem to find them a second time, so they got left out…
the 245kv 50mm that I have had since I built my first board was geared 15/36 (stock gearing for the old enertion k3 mount) and it would fly on that setup. I’ve since bumped it down to 12/36 (about a month ago) just to try to keep temps down. Only problem is, it still runs really warm- I also almost feel like it runs hotter now than when I first got it, but that may just be me…
I have a 15mm belt on my pneumatics build, and I have to say its sweet- But I really haven’t had a problem with enertion’s 9mm setup, and personally, I like the idea of dual rear drive as apposed to dual diag; but thats just me
right now I talking with onloop about possibly buying replacement electronics to put in my old space cell, since the cells are all good, and its just the BMS that failed. having another 10s, I would probably try out your new sensored setup, as long as my wallet says it’s ok…
Original Enertion R-SPEC 5065 245kv (same factory as Alien)
Saite 6354 245kv.
EMP 6354 190kv.
EMP 6354 245kv
EMP 6354 270kv
I think the SK3 are good for the price… but i have blown them up also.
I realised one thing after testing all these motors, cheap = rubbish.
Basically when it comes to manufacturing motors the cheaper the factory tries to make the motor the less quality parts they use. Or some things are left out completely.
Things to note such as.
Magnet quality.
Motor dimension tolerance (air gap size)
Magnet retainer ring (often left out on cheap motors to save $1 or $2)
Stator metal quality. High silicone percentage stator metal is more expensive & it reduces losses. (Cheap motors get hot because of losses often due to low grade stator materials)
Use of high quality chemically resistant, high temperature epoxy resins. VS standard low grade epoxy.
i’d just like to say that i’m basically in love with the pair of NTM Propdrive 270’s that i’m currently running on my 6S, and i suspect a lot of people are since you mentioned they don’t stay in stock long. And you just can’t beat the price at around $40 each.
I also really really liked Enertion’s old R-SPEC 245s. Torquey little bastards with a decent top end despite being a lower kv than the 270s. That is until the wires ripped themselves out for some unknown (possibly stick or pine cone related) reason.
the wires yanked out of your R-SPECs too? See now i’m thinking its less stick or pine cone related and possibly more heat/glue related. When I took another look at the damage, it was the glue that held the lead wires in place that had given, it wasn’t so much a ripping or tearing of otherwise healthy parts, so to speak. its kind of hard to see here, but i put it on instagram:
The glue gave, then the copper gave. Is this basically what your damage looked like?
This has happened to me twice now. 2 wires were mostly severed few weeks ago and I fixed them, and one just got severed completely this morning. I contacted Enertion but they say it’s not covered by the warranty, so I’m searching for a new motor.
ya, it seems like a common problem… They only weird thing to me is that I destroyed my first one in less than 3 weeks, but my second has lasted almost 6 months…
Not sure if it actually helps, but i usually zip tie the wires taught that come out from the motor. I’ve felt some “clicks” like the wire was contacting something when rotating, but after tensioning the wires leaving the motor - that click isn’t felt. So i usually pull them moderately tight and then put a zip tie around them against the motor case to keep them tensioned.
Here’s a closer look at my damaged R-SPEC 245kv from Enertion. I disassembled it so i could get a better look at what actually happened. Its pretty clear that the copper just broke, and i didn’t see any evidence of burning or overheating, so i think the break was purely mechanical. Likely due to the glue detaching and the wires bending around or twisting too much, but it could have also happened when I snagged a stick just the right way.
I’m SO using inlaid motor wires on all of my builds from now on. Its worth every hour it takes to do it.
So that’s one bad R-SPEC 245 that needs to be re-wound and a pair of 6-8S ESCs that need a few components replaced on my bench. One day when its cool and rainy and i have time to waste with a multi-meter.
@longhairedboy Can you show an example of what you mean by inlaid motor wire? Like how the boosted boards wires are inlaid on top of the board and covered with griptape?
This is while the connectors were still masked during painting. You can see the connectors by the truck mounting holes and the motor leads that will go into the box:
So basically the whole idea is to get the motor leads out of the way while they’re headed into the box while still allowing the entire drive assembly to be removed without cracking the box open. Also, this makes everything splash resistant since you don’t have holes in the box to let the wires in. It also takes a lot of stress off of the motor wires while still allowing them to flex as the truck hanger bends around. Also, and i have tested this, if you lose a belt you can quickly and easily disconnect one motor and tuck the cables in under the truck and keep going.
I used a dremel and some bondo to do this. Not the body filler, but the fiberglassing resin.
