Battery Backpack Chiboards Style

I wasn’t aware of the formula, good looking out. That will go in my data sets from now on.

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I’m actually working on a trailer for a distance build. It’s the best option actually if you want a comfortable board that rides like a comfortable board without 50lbs on your back.

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I dig it, I just gate the idea if a trailer. If you had to roll out of a spill the trailer might end up crashing I to you.

I was just curious if it would 5+ hours to charge a 7p pack as that’s about my limit. I always stay where my board is charging in case of an issue and 5 hours in one place is not convenient.

I prolly won’t ever build anything over 4p anyways, mostly 3p does the job for me as far as distance. I very seldom ride over 12-15 miles at a time.

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Fully agree. This is going to be for an event.

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That’s cool. I’ve been trying to think if a way to get mondo range on a MBS Comp 95. Not huge amps, just lots if mAh. I’m thinking about a trip to Bankhead National Forest next year, the site I wanna camp is 22 miles in and that’s a hell of a long hike :grinning:. I would need a minimum of 44 miles range. I’m kind of stumped.

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My bag is 11 pounds and coupled with my mono drive gives me 80 miles of range nearly. The bag is lighter than what I normally carry around.

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I have been doing some tests on some wire that I collected from a bunch of new resistors that I had laying around. (Few hundred of them) it seems that this wire can handle at least 23-25 amps of current before busting. I am going to make this pack with cell level fuses inspired by @chaka

I will weld of the negative terminals with nickel strip and I’ll fuse the positive terminals to a bus bar.

The videos aren’t exactly scientific I recorded them with the slow mo function on my phone and a current meter. But they were cool non the less

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yup, almost nearly identical to what this guy’s done to mimic what tesla does for their cars:

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also, going back just a little.

so let’s say there’s two packs, main one on the board, then the extended pack.

when connecting the two, the voltages of each must be identical, right? otherwise a huge spark and rush of current to balance each other out?

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Hmm, look up averagejoe on YouTube for fuse wire tests

An AS150 OR XT90S Would prevent the spark but no easy way around the current moving from one battery to the other while the voltages equalizes that I can think of.

I think the current flow would be low if the batteries were within 0.1 volts or so, can anyone back this up with math?

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On a very large capacity pack a .1v difference could equate to a large capacity/current differential

@barajabali btw I used these for air gapping and attaching fuse wire and axial glass fuses to the buss bar on my PowerWall packs. I did it in pairs but you can use it for single cell too. What’s nice you can have the fuse wire “tight” and still have vibration dampening by the nickel tab. You would need to design some kinda of capping/stacking system though to make a brick though

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So I have soldered all of the cells and spotwelded all of the negative ends.

This process was extremely long if this were a normal pack I would have finished it 3 tim s over already. Each cel is fused as well as a 60amp fuse for the entire pack. Still much to do For consistency with this project, I’m using a recycled bms and anti spark switch.

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That’s fucking beautiful. 12s9p? 864 watt hours? I think you need to put a plexiglass plate over that and make a flip up/zippered viewing window on your back bag to show off this masterpiece. :zap:

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of you can add it a Flux Capacitor

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Thanks a lot man there is so much work here it’s nuts lol Its Super pretty I wish I didn’t have to hide all this work. But it’s 12s9p 1kwh

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The pack is absolutely beautiful… but that’s gonna be heavy AF. Make sure you wear a back brace when riding :joy:

Its actually not that bad the battery it 11 pounds or so and I plan to keep the entire setup under 15.

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I bought the DROK NC adjustable buck regulator. But I didnt buy the boost converter. Do i need it?

I cant just use the buck converter alone?

As long as supply voltage is higher than needed output , you’re fine If you need equal or higher than supply, than boost is needed