Another tip, you should make that little plastic thing to fit beside the reset socket:
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haha I used a cut in half nail (wrapped in electrical tape as to not short anything).
Works pretty well with a little hot glue.
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Made some progress today. Has anyone had trouble using the “threads” in the enclosure to close up the controller? I’m finding that none of the threads are good enough to secure the whole thing together, I was careful not to strip them, but there doesn’t seem to be anything for the screws to bite into.
You can see that the battery doesn’t quite fit!
Here’s my superglued trigger arm:
Once I figure out how to close it up (thinking hot glue) this is how it might look:
Like others, I had to cut away a sizable chunk of the enclosure to be able to get full trigger swing.
I’ll keep at it!
Thanks @lox897 is that what you did? How would one use hot glue in this case? pour it into the screw holes and then drive the screws in I imagine. @elkick @sl33py how did you get it done?
I managed to put the whole thing together with screws, though I feel like I have to be extra careful not to strip the threads. Also I taped the battery to the other halve so it does not bounce around inside the enclosure. Good luck with your project!
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thanks @Haimindo, so far that hasn’t worked for me, perhaps I selected the wrong plastic grade when I printed at Shapeways… these screws aren’t staying put! Also, the fit of everything seems just slightly off, so there is a small amount of pressure for the enclosure being bent to conform around the battery. It’s not a terrible fit, but not perfect either.
I have had both some that worked great, and others that immediately stripped out. I think it largely depends on the print material. I got some “fancy” colors printed and they were much thinner/flexier than the previous boring off white/translucent ones (which worked great and felt much more sturdy).
I found that a dab of hot glue into the screw holes helped give the screw some purchase to tighten. I also broke off some of the threaded portion, so “reinforce” it with surrounding hot glue to hold it steadier. For those two bright colored cases, i ended up supergluing them together. An exacto will be needed to get into them down the road, but they are not coming apart now!
HTH - GL!
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Thx @sl33py. Got it done last night! I used your trick of pouring hot glue into the screw posts, and then I used a very small drill bit to clear a little space for the screw. It seems to hold now!
Check out this sweet lens flare!
Here it is all closed up, first test ride tomorrow.
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Looks great! where did you get the case from? What material is this? Print quality is pretty good.
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@treenutter - do you run a VESC? I’d be interested to see new controller configuration if you do. thanks
@MasterCho I got it from Shapeways, and used the strongest offering available. In hindsight I would have printed it in a color (red, orange, white) instead of matte black. While I like the styling, it looks a bit like a handgun I think. I’d rather not draw that kind of attention. I might paint it if I can find some paint that won’t melt off in my hand while I’m holding the controller.
EDIT: Per advice from @sl33py above, I recommend printing rom shape ways in the white/translucent color in the stingiest setting.
@dogeatgod yes, I use a VESC. What setting are you interested in? The setup for this controller is exactly the same as setting up a GT2B in BLDC Tool. The mod is just an encasement swap, so there is nothing unique about configuration with the ESC. The one caveat is that it becomes harder to adjust trim on the controller settings because the dials are inside the enclosure.
Max, min and rest pulse width please. I just want to compare as had an issue with brake. It’s probably something silly but couldn’t figure it out.