Are these ultra slim batteries any good?

The cheapest 30Q are the fake ones.

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No, I just meant I did my own research and found nkonšŸ˜‚

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Also true. Get them from a reputable source. I like ru.nkon.nl, they have good prices.

ru.nkon.nl is legit. Despite the shady-looking URL.

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Beat me to it lol

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Like check this out https://ru.nkon.nl/samsung-inr-18650-30q-3000mah.html Thatā€™s like $300 for 84 cells for a 12s7pā€¦

Oh, I know. I bought 150 cells from them a couple months ago. Lipo is cheaper, no doubt.

Iā€™m debating whether or not to go higher than 12s6p for my custom just because itā€™s so cheapā€¦ Iā€™d be able to get a few extra miles on it, but it would also weigh a ton

My largest was 10s5p, and that was heavy. My next build was 10s4p, and a little heavier because 6" tires. 12s6p will be a monster. You might even be able to get away with NCR18650PF cells at 6p, 30Q wonā€™t even break a sweat unless youā€™ve got a 4wd setup.

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Donā€™t forget a forklift to move it. Or a kayak handle at a minimum

I think soldering lipo could be safer than connecting ion. as soon as you screw up a giant spark will tell you right away with either chemistry but more so with lipo and any circuit is blown apart stopping the cell from continuing to rise in temp and go into thermal runaway.

I havenā€™t heard first hand of fires while connecting either cells but have heard of them from badly made ion packs later burning up in the board.

For single drive, probably even 5P. For dual-drive, I would not use PF cells unless youā€™re over 8P deep

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Fair enough. 6p of 30Q is overkill for a dual though. I bet there are some other cells that are cheaper than 30Q but better discharge than PF. I just donā€™t know them off the top of my head.

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Was looking at these myself for a tight fit inside one of my integrated decks. Iā€™m still abit scared of lipos tho, alot easier to burn down stuff with then the sturdy 18650.

I think operator error is a much, much bigger risk than which cell chemistry you select. All the lithium cell chemistries are dangerous to some extent, LiFePO4 probably the least, but those are heavy.

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True, but still, Lipos expand abit and need room to breath, easier to punctureā€¦ list goes on

These Turnigy packs are OK, there are builds out there which used these. But you have to keep in mind that the value for the money isnā€™t to great, espacially with these single cells. Buying 3S, 4S, or 6S packs and dissasembly them is often cheaper (eventhough a bit tricky and scary). Over all not recommended for a newby without any expirience with LiPoā€™s at all BTW!

Normal LiPo RC packs are usually stacked up according to the disired voltrage and capacity and then widely spot welded on the contacts. Most (and there arenā€™t to many) battery producers manufacture only a few different single cells and build then all kinds of configurations from these. Many of the bigger Turnigy packs are in fact build from exact these single cells (compare the footprints and the battery S and P composition and you usually can tell the single cell size).

And by the way take the C rating of HK batteries ā€¦over all any cheap battery with a grain of salt, donā€™t take them for granted! With the Turnigy cells I usually calculate with 1/5 to 1/4 of the C rating to get acceptable perfromance (lifetime and voltage sag). I would rate these as an actual 5C cell. And the point with our high amp LiIon roundcells is you get the same power with probably better life time and capacitance for the same price (at lower weight;130g Turnigy 5000mAh for ~8ā‚¬ compared to 2x Samsung 30Q 3000mAh for ~4ā‚¬ ea). And of course LiIon roundcells are also safer and propably better quality/tested than cheap chinese RC LiPo batteries.

The formfactor of course is nice for stealth sleek looking builds though.

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My board weighs a total of 12.6 kg/27.78 lbs. Thatā€™s with a 12s6p.

Luckily I recently noticed I can drag it around on the front wheels. Only necessary though when belts break or range testing.

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300$ for a 12s7p is nothing, check how much a 10s4p costs in any eskate store lol

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I think these are great idea, and a reasonable alternative to 18650 packs. You could spot weld or solder the tabs together, but if soldering you must use aluminum solder and lots of flux. Aluminum paste also works well. Here is a good resource for connecting lipo tabs: