Anybody tried the Racerstar 120A?

Has anybody tried the Racerstar 120A? Is it possible to program to be smooth enough? Does it make noise when braking?

1 Like

I got two of them plus programing card but didnt try them yet

Are you planning to try them?

They look very similar to the x-car 120A esc, and while being a esc for rc cars, it will most likely make the high pitch noise while braking…

1 Like

Okay. I’ve heard that the fvt does’nt make that much noise. I am curious about how theese compare.

I’ll try them soon just need to find time to solder some connectors… Have been busy

Alright. Let me know how it works. :slightly_smiling_face:

Just get a Vesc, you’ll be so glad you did.

I wish I had not wasted so much money on car esc’s in the beginning to just end up with the Vesc afterwards.

2 Likes

Can you recomend some settings on the vesc to not fry it on 6s? Besides keeping it below the ERPM limit…

Run BLDC mode and split ppm.

1 Like

I got a pm from somebody using it. He says it can be programmed to run smoothly, but it makes that loud squeeking noise while braking…

Yup, thats kinda standard with rc esc`s…

But i heard that the FVT doesnt make that loud noise…

Seen in this Video.

1 Like

But thats the FVT and not the racerstar…

Yes. i wrote that in my comment… But i guess this thread is not about the FVT :laughing:

I got dual racerstar 120A and made a loopkey to turn the board on and off. But both esc’s have built in on/off switch and every time I unplug the xt90 and plug it again the switch satys off so I have to open enclosure and turn them on again. There is anyway to keep them always on?

If it were a regular switch you could just solder the connections together to keep it ‘always closed/on’ but with momentary push button like that don’t think that would work out since it will see the button as ‘constantly pressed’… could put a servo in there to push the button for you :smiley:

Yes because if I keep the button pressed and plug and unplug the xt90 it works

I’d just do a continuity check with the button not pressed vs pressed to see if it’s momentarily closed or momentarily open (while power is disconnected). If it buzzes for continuity when you press the button then can just put a blob of solder connecting the two sides of the switch otherwise if it buzzes for continuity when it’s not pressed then just remove the button.