If it’s the same motor, you’ll have to modify it to see temperatures (see my posts above). It does have a thermistor, but it’s connected to 5v when it needs to be referenced to ground. Basically you need to cut the white white, and solder a 10k NTC thermistor between this white wire and the ground on the PCB. Some similar motors (same can appearance) don’t even bother putting a temp wire on since they know it won’t do anything.
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Just got two of the 6354 in the mail, these ones have magnet retainers, so lets hope that they function a bit better. Temp sensor seems unchanged, everything is glued in, so I’m not gonna mess with that.!
No solder balls in the windings as far as I can see, so that is a good sign. I’m gonna see how they run when I have some time this weekend.
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Did anyone had positive warranty experience?
You got some of the good ones there, with 2 holes and not 4 right? They are vastly different from the bad 6374 ones also i think they are not even from the same manufacter.
I have 2 of them on my board thats done 50 - 60km now they run really well, my old with 4 holes did make a weird sound / ratling sound but no loose magnets my new ones are perfect
i managed to return 3 units of 6374 and got the replacement. BUTTT, the same shit still still exist in 1 of the brand new motor (new design as well) 
What shit specifically? Pics?
I was thinking of buying them in a couple of days.
Magnets issue…I’ll attach the video of the problem later
Facepalm… So glad i got a refund, and bought sk8 motor instead.
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We have done some check ups on motors, and found out that its not epoxy breaking from temperature as it was holding up to 300ºC without braking but the motor can heats up and expands which causes epoxy break and loosen magnets, so the problem lies with motor cans and glue used as epoxy is not elastic and when motor can expands from heat it brakes epoxy bonds with magnets. So I guess more rugged motor cans work better as they do not expand too much.
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As far as I know you use the green loctide to glue back magnets. As you didn´t report about any issues after, can I assume that the green loctite would be flexi enough to give the magnets some play when the can start to expand?
So far it holds on. I used not typical green thread lock but 648 high temperature retainer 
But I guess it’s because its really getting into every corner and gap compared to original epoxy on sides only and still manages to keep everything together
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as promised
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Would you be able to open it and see why the magnets came off. I am wondering if the retaining ring came off like @Kug3lis said or is it because the gave you a motor from the old batch without retaining ring?
since the motor is new, i just sent it back to flipsky…now waiting for the replacement.
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So guys, I was browsing the Flipsky website and they have acknowledged the problem with the motors on there blog, looks like they are definitely addressing the issues. Here’s the link:
it doesn’t cover anything just shows that where the solder balls coming from and how they prevent it. Retainer ring doesn’t solve magnets problem and etc
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surely there is a glue out there and they just need to get it. magnets coming off seems much more so their problem
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Agreed. I wouldn’t consider flipsky motors until they acknowledge and prove they’ve fixed the loose magnet issues.
It just explains that they were in a rush producing motors and removed it from the solder bath with enough speed to fling the liquid solder across areas where it should not be. In other words, not taking the time for the solder to become solid. Fixing this slows down production, but other than that has no impact on the manufacturing cost. All multirotor motors have multistrand soft silicone wires and none of them suffer from solder balls, nor would that ever be accepted.
Using proper glue for the magnets however would increase the cost. That stuff is expensive. No word on improvement there.
If the motors don’t have shorting within the windings, that would show on a cheap inductance meter, (with the bell off), then solder balls not even a problem. I think it gets spit out if that solder pot with the introduction of the enamel on the magnet wire in there n not so much rushing that would make it shoot out of that solder pot.
Be nice to know what crap glue they’re using
Not that it’s their solution but if u have one of these u could add glue between magnets. Maybe crazy glue n baking powder