Yes that is the correct one. You will need the metal crimping pins to go with it because that is just the plastic housing
Cool, thanks.
Think Iām going to switch the wiring, Iād prefer to go 10AWG for my setup.
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Bought the last one 
Looking forward
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ThatĀ“s exactly what IĀ“m looking forā¦ But too late, sold outā¦
@Martinsp Will there be more switches available in future?
Sorry 
There will definitely be some. I have redesigned it once again to make it smaller but maintain the power it can handle.
There will be a clearance sale next month since I have some bare PCBs for these switches left so I will put them together to make room for the new ones. Also there are some new very exciting things coming, one of them is a new switch that has not been made before, I already have a test sample so once I feel confident about them I will put it up for sale. 
This will all happen next month hopefully in the first half.
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Donāt forget to let us know when the time has come for all that new stuffš Iām definitely in for some parts!
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Hello everyone,
I am sorry it took so long but I have had to split my time between a lot of projects but here it is, the third version of the switch. The first version was small with a small power output, the second was big with higher power output and in this third version I managed to combine small form factor so you will not waste precious space on your board and maintained the high power output so that you are not limited to use the full potential of your battery!
You can pick one up right now!
I am also working on the push to start switch (find out more here) should be available soon! Best regards, Martin.
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Hey @Martinsp ā¦Iām newer to the game will this switch work with my lipo set up I have two 6s2p packs built from 3s2p packs 7400 mAh 90c and 159 ampsā¦ and I charge them separate and then I have a loop key to turn the two packs into a 12s2p packā¦would this work in stead of a loop key ā¦and next question ā¦and can you ship and how long does it take to ship to toronto Canada and shipping thanks for your time and help
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Hello @Frenchy yes the switch is rated up to 13S. I saw that you already placed an order, the shipping is usually withing 2 weeks at worst if the ātrafficā is high. We do all we can to speed up the shipping so 1. class is on all orders by default.
Thank you, Martin.
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Hello everyone,
sorry for not replying here or in PMs. I was unfortunately busy moving the shop to a different/new location. We should be back on track with orders and other stuff already. I have replied to everyone I think in PMs and emails but if you have not received a reply please just let me know I may have unintentionally skip someone.
I just wanted to give you all an update on this. I have received some questions if these are still running the same version as the previous batch that turned out to be less reliable than what I was wanting. So to answer it, no we are not using/selling the same switches as before. We have now after attempts at making the older versions work as reliably as possible decided to make a completely new design from scratch. Since we have made the push to start switch that required an MCU on the PCB (which resulted in a very reliable swithc) we decided to use it in these sort of standard/regular anti spark switches. And the results were very good! I am happy with the way the last version has turned out.
So to summarize it, the last/newest version that has been shipping out for almost two months now is smaller, more reliable, and more powerful. We have even stopped using a fuse on our switches since a lot of our customers were asking us to bypass it for them. If you are interested you can read more about these regular anti spark switches here: http://electricskateboard.repair/index.php?id_product=36&controller=product&search_query=switch&results=8 The information should be up to date with all there new changes.
That is it for the update, if anyone has any questions feel free to ask below or shoot me a PM.
Enjoy your weekend, Martin.
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Damn I think Iāve come here at the right time xD. Your switch now seems to be perfect in terms of reliability. So this switch adapts the MCU design of the more expensive push to start one right?
If I order now, how long until it arrives? Is shipping still ā¬4 to the US?
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Push-to-start and a 45 minute auto shutoff means you donāt need a power button or loopkey anymore.
Until/unless the antispark switch fails ā and fails in the closed, āonā state ā then you risk running your battery completely dead, past 2.8V / cell
Right?
Not having a power button or loop key is tremendously good for water resistance, though
@Martinsp do these have a āprechargeā circuit where it turns on through a resistor first, before the main FETs open-up? So they are never operating in the linear region?
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@mtuan293 It is hard to compare them because while they have the same ācoreā (they switch power on and off) their use is a little different as @b264 pointed out the auto turn off feature for example.
The shipping rates have gone up a little, now it is 5,3ā¬ I believe. The exact number is calculated during checkout.
@b264 yes there is a pre-charge ācircuitā. Circuit in quotes because the conventional pre-charge circuit consisted of a resistor and capacitor but now it is controlled with the MCU which is better because I can precisely control at what stage of the curve the transistor is held during the time the capacitors on ESCs are charging and for how long.
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I think I found the answer I was looking for xD. Nice. So both the regular and the push to start switch has this feature am I right? Do they both have a heatsink too?
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@Martinsp So is there is a separate FET for the precharge, meaning none of them are ever anything except fully closed or fully open? Thatās what makes antispark switches fail
So, for example, one FET turns on but has a 5 ohm resistor in series with the output. Then about 200 milliseconds or so later, 3 or so main FETs open up
Is that what happens or is that not what happens?
@mtuan293 yes both of them have the pre-charge (more often called anti spark at least on the forum here) feature. Yes both of them have a heatsink, however with the low RDS-on and the fact that the FETs are not switched on and off repeatedly unlike on ESCs the heatsink barely gets warm under normal use.
@b264 no that is not the way it is in this case. I have seen some switch in the picture thread not sure whos it was but in this case it is that the transistors open partially (so they have relatively high RDS-on) for a moment until the spike is gone and than it opens fully. This happens under 3s to make sure that the switch is fully on before the VESC is booted
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āpre-chargeā to me means a separate FET with series resistor
I would not expect any FETs in a āpre-chargeā system to ever be operating in the linear zone or high-Rds zone
āantisparkā would include both pre-charge antispark and inrush-limiting antispark
I think this is an inrush-limiting antispark
I am actually not entirely sure on what the correct terminology in this case would be. I think that the three terms mean the same, they are just used by different people. I may be completely wrong here but the way I see it is that the term pre charge and inrush limiting is describing the same thing, limiting the inrush current therefore pre-charging the capacitors. And the term antispark is IMO āinventedā by someone who is not into electronics and is just describing what the switch does, it makes sure that there is no spark on the bind/loop key.
Then maybe we could call them ānon-linear antispark solid state control switches with separate precharge path and only low-Rds FET operationā
Confusing the difference between the two could confuse consumers as to what they are actually getting and lead to a long series of questions like this to even know if your FETs are going to be getting hot upon startup or if they arenātā¦
of course, itās great for marketing purposes 
I definitely dont want to confuse anyone, thats why I am here answering all questions. The name, for me at least, originates from the Vedders āspark-switchā which turned into antispark switch
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