So my original plan was to use the arbor deck that I loved for this build, but it was skinnier than expected (the two ends of the space cell were less than half and inch from the edge of the deck) and it had too much flex for my liking…
I went back to my OriginalSkate drop freeride (incredibly stiff board) to finish this build!
components: enertion 190kv enertion k3 propulsion kit (modded it to face backwards because of the dropdeck… as soon as I switch to a downhill board I’ll go back to the enertion carbon fiber mount) torqueboard’s 12s esc (soon to be VESC) castle BEC (soon to be obsolete with the VESC, hense why I didn’t attempt to fit it in the case) enertion space cell caliber trucks abec flywheels OriginalSkate drop freeride
The build is rather similiar to alot of others with one main difference… I build a wood case, rather than use ABS or some type of resin.
here’s just a brief tutorial for the wood case, because my first one (built about 6 months ago) is still rock solid, and I think I’ve got the hang of it now. whatcha need in addition to your wood: wood clue clamps (can make due with heavy objects if need be…) pocket knife, or some sort of razor blade.
First, get your pieces cut into the shapes you want (measure 42 times, cut once)
Then, figure out in what order do you want to glue the pieces. What I did for the build, was screw the end piece to the sides first (and didn’t glue it) so that I’d have a solid way of holding the sides in the correct orientation while I glued on the top.
Then I ran a bead on wood glue (don’t be stingy, excess isn’t a problem) along the top of both sides, and clamped on the top peice.
here you can see the top piece after being glued, and the end piece held in by a screw on the side (right angle bracket inderneath) and a screw through the top. The other screws are for mounting the case:
Showing how it will eventually sit: adding the other angled piece, and cutting the holes for the space cell IO. You can see the excess glue on the far side: just cut it off with some sort of blade after it is fully cured, and then said down the whole corner with some fine grit sand paper: After you get everything glued, run an extra bead along all the inside corners to increase it’s strength: at this point you you can remove your original screws on the first piece (if you choose to do so. I left them because they weren’t interfering with anything) add a coat of paint, mount it up, and you’re done! <img src=“https://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/1X/97f46d77890ea6d7b61a8d307846accd4d47a427.jpg” width=“690”if there was anything I would change, it would be to add some apoxy to the corners so that they look smooth… minor complaint though since they are going to get beat up anyways.
as far as the electronics go, it’s kinda a mess right now, because it a couple weeks it’ll all be redone. The esc will soon be a vesc, and the castle bec will be gone. (The bec isn’t included in the case for that reason). I’ll have more space for wiring once the vesc is installed, because it has a much smaller footprint.
testing final fitment (remember, measure 42 times, cut/drill once) I also modded the old enertion k3 propulsion kit to face backwards (15 minutes of minor dremel work) because of the dropdeck… I’d like to get a flat downhill board, and use enertion’s carbon fiber mount at some point too… (keeping the same everything else)And She’s done!
I’ll also throw calibers on the front to match the rear at some point… Just to make it look more professional (black case, black/white board, and black trucks) but for my personal use I really like the feel of these bear trucks cosmetic issues aside.