@longhairedboy you recommended a similar voltmeter in one of your threads and I was just wondering if you know how they actually compute the capacity. What voltage is “0%” and can one change the thresholds somehow?
as far as i know, you cannot modify them to calculate the voltages differently. But based on what i’ve seen, they calculate based on the standard thresholds for lithium-ion, which is a 3.6v nominal per cell group. the 18650s i use have a max of 4.2v and a min cutoff at 2.6v, so i expect that’s more or less standard and that it falls in line with that. I have seen the meter read 1% when the BMS cuts off power, and it usually takes a little longer past 100% to get the charger LED to turn green, meaning when the BMS cuts off for high voltage.
All of that is to say they seem to be operating within a safe margin of the cells actual capacity, but all it is is a monitor. Even if they are measuring based on 3.7 nominal such as a lipo pack, the BMS if set to lipo will still cut charge/discharge like it is supposed to, but if you’re using them without a BMS, i think you’ll be fine because like i said they seem to work within a safe margin and if set correctly will tell you when its time to get off the board and turn it off.
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thanks - was just wondering if there is actually a way to like set them to show 100% at 4.1V and 0% at 3.5V (or similar). But I guess I just have to wait and see and measure how the reading corresponds to the actual voltage.
How did you wire the lcd battery display?
I am from Kirchheim unter Teck xD
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That’s really clever! Thanks for the answer.
Where did you get the remote from? Thanks in advance.
It is in the text: a badwolf mod gt2b
Sorry I didnt know what that was 
!
how far/distance/time can you skate with these lipo 5a 3c in series?
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Hi, I am a new builder/user to this forum and I am very excited to be getting into such a fun project. I live in SF where there are plenty of hills and weigh about 145-150 lbs and was wondering what components I needed. I will be running a single motor with the VESC, with 2x 4s 5000mah 20c Lipo in series. I bought DIYelectricskateboard’s 16T/36T motor mount kit as well. SO what I don’t know is what motor I need (been told 230kv is good) and does anyone have suggestions for a comparable but cheaper alternative to DIYelectricskateboard’s on/off antispark switch.
Xt90 anti spark is the way to go. Do a quick search on the forum and lots will come up, I would say almost everyone uses them because it’s about $5
Wuoah such a nice board for such a low price thats pretty awesome 
I got some question to this project, do you have some ride data like speed and the distance you can hit in one charge? You would help me a lot to build myself a board, what trucks did you use? How stable is the board on a high speed 
Thank you for your answer 
Friendly greetings fc_key
dude everything you asked for is in the comments or text. I linked to the distance for a charge just two posts above yours. Also the trucks are specified in the initial post (Caliber 44°). Top Speed is 40km/h and it is pretty stable (although I can not compare to other boards)
thank you maxid!
Hey nice board! I have basically the same setup but without the extra switch and volt meter, which I just got in the mail but now I’m wondering about how to wire the switch. I thought you should wire it up in parallell to the esc switch? But you say that you connected both + and - from the new switch to the red esc wire? How does that work? A bit cofused about what is what since the esc has three wires.
if you connect in parallel there would be no benefit of having the second switch. You need to connect in series so that the new switch can actually break the circuit. The ESC has three wires (GND, POS and a signal wire for the small button). You only want to disconnect the red POS wire as otherwise the current would just travel over the signal line when you disconnect GND.