@High-roller @rey8801 @Benjamin899
I haven’t actually tried it myself, but I have seen great success from other people. I’m fairly certain this works with almost all filaments, not just abs. It might have troubles with slippery and/or flexible stuff like nylon though.
I think this would be a great way to join enclosures together as well, not just for fixing cracks!
Let me @High-roller let me know of your results!
Another way is acetone or MEK in case your ABS is more resistant to chemical (ABS MG94 for example)
Take all that scrap (supports, brims and etc), dissolve it in a paste and use it to glue, since the solvent completely evaporates you joint has the same resistance of the material, actually even better since it fuse all layers together
Did i get that right, that you can use MEK and dissolve scrap ABS and make a paste. What Ratio are we talking Here. Like how much MEK would you need to make 20-30ml of paste
I don’t know exactly, I keep adding ABS until it’s thick, not no so much that you can’t work with
If your parts are fitting really well you can try without making the paste, just put put MEK of both sides of the joint with a brush and press them together. I made the paste because I had some big gaps to fill
awesome. i still have a huge piece of abs from a failed enclosure. Gonna meld parts of it and make some small pieces, like caps or lids. I am rly stoked.
This is my enclosure glued with this technique, 600km and counting and no problem, that includes lots of bad roads that vibrate a lot and no problem
I recently did a few printed enclosures on my flexi board and used PLA. To strengthen the parts I did 3 coats of XTC-3D which worked quite well. I then did a light sand and sprayed with plasti-dip for a rubbery coating.
The plasti dip has started to chip/peel away from stones getting flicked up so i may rethink that but the enclosures have no dings or cracks in them.
Why is the heatsink pointed the wrong way 
For slides 
Because of laziness. It was the right size one way for the fsesc 4.2 but ended up with the fins the wrong way.
In the end i could have gone without it as it barely hits 32c on a 20c day. might get a touch warmer on a 40c day but i doubt i’ll be riding on a day like that as i would rather be standing in front of the AC.
@Blix I wouldn’t know how to slide. need some crazy safety equipment to get me to try. I am not very brave whihc is probably why the ESC doesn’t get hot.
Nice work people!
I also tried to print a case:
Here tell you more about my attempt:
Very nice design.
Please tell me you are alright! That board does not look very healthy by the end in your link.
I could have saved this board, but I did not take the risk and jump under the car. I’im fine and started a new build.
This looks Amazing!!!..Would you be willing to share the CAD files with me by any chance?..Great Work!!!
Some great designs on here! Just thought I’d share mine, this is designed to fit a 10s2p pack with a flipsky dual vesc, sls 3d printed in nylon.
another photo mounted to the deck
I basically wasted my whole spool of nylon trying to print eskate parts 
Hey, couldnt find these on your website!! Still making them by any chance?
