I started going through spare parts this week and decided to make a Christmas Build. All said and done, the actual build only took about 2 hours
The only part I purchased was the deck from a local skate shop. I liked the shape and especially liked the robust clear coat grip that was laid over nice artwork.
Our daughter’s friend (also our babysitter for my boys) has told me several times that she is going to buy a board from me someday. Well, Let’s just say I lost her as a customer today! Merry Christmas Logan!
Since this was primarily a spare parts build, I kept the wiring simple using an XT90 anti spark plug and just an xt60 loop key for a switch. I ran a charge lead out of the front of the enclosure so she can charge. The enclosure will have to come off once in awhile to balance the cells or I’ll set up the balance leads too. (I’ll probably be the balancer)
She knows how to ride a skateboard, but I wedged the back truck to 40degrees and the front to 50. It made for a really fun and stable board.
“I don’t always use tensioners, but when I do I’m always pleased!”
You don’t have to play tug of war trying to get your belt tight because the tensioner bends the belt around the pulleys making it contact more teeth.
This frees up some of the resistance you would have otherwise.
I find my board rolls better/longer and I can safely assume there is less wear on the motor bearings.
My tensioners are made of bearings. They have no effect on the belt. I suppose I could have used 3 bearings to completely cover the width of the belt, but there’s no need to do it. Centering the 2 bearings does the trick.
I pretty much mocked everything up, marked the spot, drilled and tapped the hole. Then just bolted it up. Adjustments can be made by changing the size of the bearings.
This is awesome. Especially the part about being able to drop the rolling resistance by not having the belt quite so tight and getting away with it because you have more teeth meshing.
Rolling resistance on t a dual drive sucks. Without belt tensioners in play, a single motor board has a far more natural free roll. Anything we can do to drop rolling resistance on dual drives is a huge plus in my book.
@psychotiller Can we gat a close up of how you mounted that pulley to the wheel? I think others would be as interested as I am about how you did that without using a giant washer and bolts going all the way through the wheel.
The board has left the nest…maybe I can give a better description. The inside of the pulley hub is cupped. The two 16mm bearings slip into that, but can’t slide all the way through. Then that assembly goes into the wheel. The other side of the wheel has a normal bearing.
When the wheel is bolted into place, the pulley hub can’t pull it’s way loose because the 16mm bearings are pressed against the hanger thus keeping the pulley hub right against the inside of the wheel. Trucks with round hangers work well. Calibers require a little filing to round the corners so the 16mm bore in the hub can clear the hanger.
But mostly, I used magic!
Magic you say? I think i may have come across a few drawing for something like this on the intarwebs. The ones i saw had teeth for flywheel clones and i saw some for orangutans. I would much rather be using these types of wheel pulleys. I feel like boosted uses a similar technique.
Magic. I made mine. And the difference is mine replaced the bearing on the inside of the wheel instead of having to have a special truck with a longer axle on one side such as what altered uses. Takes up less space and allows the user to choose different pulley sizes.
