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No idea about which fuse! but i pulled this from the hobbywing website itself , iv been using them without any fuses or anti spark systems for over a year now with zero problems.

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But it’s only anti spark, nothing written about a fuse. As min not in the picture you posted. Fuse should save you from short the battery or the esc. The antispark just kills the spark which can appear while connecting a battery to the esc.

the system as stated protects both battery and esc, you literally can’t have a functional ’ anti spark system’ without some kind of fuse component or something that does a similar job of a fuse, as iv said, iv literally been using these escs as standard without any problems for over a year.

I thought there is just a precharge resistor inside🤔 I once shorted my battery with a anti spark loop key, so can you explain me why there the fuse inside the antispark plug didn’t triggered? I‘m not a electrotechnical expert, so I just want to understand this.

The switches ( similar to what the max6 uses) are obviously a lot more advanced than a loop key hence why the Vedder Anti-Spark switches are very expensive. Im sure theres a thread about the differences between the 2.

The vedder switch based on mosfets. All this anti spark e-switched have a fuse in line or as min a holder for it. The vedder anti spark don’t replace a fuse.

If the mosfet blow than usually there gates stay open and your board always switched on. Still don’t get the argument why not to use a fuse?

A fuse should save your components from getting broke by burn before your esc or battery burn. Did you burn one of that fuses in your max6? And if yes how you can replace it? If you can’t replace it than your max6 is fucked non the less, so a external fuse would solve that problem.

If i‘m wrong please put me in the right direction!

Trampa board arrived early!

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@DanSkates any input you may have would be welcome too, since you built a board very similar to this.

Also need advice on soldering 10 ga wire.

What you want to know about it? Just first dip the 10awg in solder than fill up the xt plug with solder, heat up everything together again and put things together.

If you think you have a problem that the 10awg will splice up, you can use a small thin copper wire or one braid of a spare awg peace. Than twist it around the end to tighten up all braids of your 10awg than proceed like described before.

I soldered 8awg easy to a xt90 like this. Hope you understood my explanation :sweat_smile: it’s easy but with my English not so easy to explain…

I’ve got a 30W soldering iron with temperature control. Is that enough power? Guessing not.

Which would be a good, but not priced over the top soldering iron/station if the above is true?

What kind of solder do I use? Is rosin based flux paste good? It’s what I have.

Get something like this with 60-100w https://www.amazon.com/Choice-CH-IRON-100W-soldering/dp/B00XK5RXKC

it’s massive but for wires or nickel it does a very good job. Use a 60/40 solder (more easy if it’s not lead free). Eboosted recommended 63/37 for nickel, but I never tried so far.

About flux, just look what’s written on what you already have, doesn’t matter if it’s paste or liquid. I just asked in my local electric shop about the right flux for connecting copper.

Not sure if you already have something like this but “Helping Hands” come in really handy holding wires an connectors steady for soldering.

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Took my Trampa out of the box, and everything is tops, except for this one gash in the front on top. @trampa like someone was negligent with a drill or something. Also shipped minus 8 M5 washers.

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Good place to drill a hole and mount a voltmeter :wink:

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Positive take on it for sure, I’m a little disappointed, but it’s not the end of the world. More pissed that I couldn’t finish assembling tonight because none of my M5 washers for the trucks were in the package. Have to source those locally now, and not sure they’ll be “marine grade”.

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Be careful with APS 6384 200kV both of them got loose magnets within a 2 weeks… Now riding with my own glued magnets…

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Haha, I bought some simple a2 stainless steel (not A4) washers and they didn’t bent like trampa ones when tightening :smiley:

Looks like it has been damaged during transportation. Was there something else in the Box, how did the Box look like? Technically that is no issue, its just an optical damage. Do you plan to mount something on the Tip? Frank

Should I take them apart and do preventative upgrades before using them?