10” (I think). I just got the rear one and used the front the caliber 2 10”. They match perfectly.
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well the picture above says the rear has 286, a tad more than the caliber
Got them and tried just a couple of miles. I got their ESC and a Sanyo 10s2p. Overall they are great. Good torque but as stated getting up to speed requires a bit. The tires are amazing. Butter. However at low speed, probably due to the tire design for water there is a little vibration. This’s weekend I’ll try to get them on a dual Vesc 6 setup and a 12s since I think 10s is a little low for a 190lbs guy.
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are the vibrations uncomfortable or just there without causing any disturbance or unease
Those trucks look to have old school truck mounting pattern, not new school found on most trucks. Might require drilling new holes in deck.
@Benjamin899 Yep, can confirm it’s slightly wider than the Caliber II hanger. Also, the low vibration is not uncomfortable at all, it’s just something that you notice as being there at first and then you don’t notice it after a little while.
@Jedi Not positive which mounting pattern it is, but I can confirm the mounting pattern on the Skullboard baseplate is the same as what’s available on the Caliber II baseplate, as well as the Ownboard baseplate, and matches up to the holes in the Ownboard deck perfectly. I’ll have to measure real quick to tell you exactly which pattern it is.
@DAddYE Awesome! Looking forward to hearing how it performs with dual VESC6 and 12s! I’m 200 lbs, and thinking about doing dual VESC6 with this setup, as well. Not sure yet if I want to go 12s, though, or stick with 10s.
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Not at all, it’s just at very low speed (like <5mph).
Does anyone experience with vibration when accelerating? Maybe that my battery and esc not mount correctly
Mine is just a rolling issue. Double check your ESC and battery is tight
I think the vibration is due to the tread pattern on the wheel. At speed it goes away. It’s noticeable only at low speed on a very smooth surface. On asphalt, I don’t feel and hear anything.
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Yup exactly
testing TB 10S3P and Miami 12S2P with a front Avenue; will update tomorrow.
PSA: just in case any of you beautiful people are thinking about a little ‘ready, fire, aim’ like I did:
my bud here has a factory SkullBoards complete that presents significant hub heat (as predicted), heavy sag (as predicted) with the standard battery, and (uh oh) ‘weird vibrations’.
For this much-needed scientific test that nobody in the community is clamoring for 
I threw a front Avenue RKP truck, Zealous ceramics, and downgraded from Riptide to Orangatang Purple Nipples to bring handling on the Randal-based clones back from theoretical to practical (they return to something… but it ain’t zero).
Tip: file down the pivots on all these new ‘reinforced’ Chinese hangers; on the last 5 completes, all had burly seams from the casting process that literally dig into the pivot cup and turn the pivot cup, instead - turning ball-and-socket into mortar-and-pestle. Guacamole!
will post more on “PROJECT SKEEVO” tomorrow 
make good choices!
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smart question. both.
casually remixing Shenzhen parts for a potential Indiegogo to introduce Boardfeel backpacks.
we have two of Maytech 100A ESCs that I picked up from my bro Jens at E-Toxx, the SkullBoardVIP ESC arriving any minute, and the Verreal F1 / Wowgo2 ESC, in this particular mule.
hubs tested will include Maytech 90MMs, the Verreal F1 90MMs, 83MM Jomo hubs, Meepo’s last-gen 90MMs, and the Jomo / SkullBoard wheels, all NIB.
PS if you’re associated with Skatemetric - bro I send people to your site, best reviews on YouTube and big, big fan of the foosted build. thanks for sharing the stoke, mean it.
@topcloud I understood like 50% of what you said in your last two post 
Anyway what kind of risers are you guys using? I’m on an old school board, 1/2” risers, caliber 44 baseplate, purple bushing and I manage to throw myself out of the board with a wheel bite, that on a automotive style tire, isn’t forgiving.
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all good.
I use @alphamail’s Riptide risers on this prototype Evo with Rayne cork shock pads. http://www.riptidesports.com/electric-skateboard/
I had new Riptide cups in this build, yet the rough edges on the Chinese hanger tore the Riptide cups.
I filed the hanger smooth, by hand, and then reinstalled the factory cups with a little graphite to stop the creaking.
Tomorrow, we will run the hubs ten miles on 10S3P.
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Hey there guys! I was originally only going to pick up the skullboard rear truck kit + front wheels…But ultimately, i did not want to go taking apart my current set up which is working soooo perfect for me right now.
Sooo to rule out any esc incompatibilities and such, I opted to just buy a complete skullboard (s1 model). Charged it up to 99% last night and took it out for my first spin… Tonight I charged it to 100% and took it out again. And I have the same report for both rides… I definitely was looking forward to a nice smooth cushioned ride with those big soft rubber wheels, But that was definitely not the case… At the moment, I do not fully know the cause of the issue - but I have lots of vibration vibrationnn vibrationnnnnn… I checked allllll the nuts and bolts and everything is secure. After riding the board for only about 5 minutes, my feet are tingly and toes are numbing. Definitely more noticeable vibration at slower speeds. BOTH front and back feet are getting the vibration. I was anticipating a much more cushioned ride, but that is simply not the case! It is noticeably loud. makes my wowgo2s on avenue trucks sound silent and muchhh much smoother in comparison. I wonder if it’s the pattern of the tread, Making the sound/vibration… or if it is the motors… but I’m not 100% sure. When i test the motors up off the ground, they spin smoothly without any vibration or noise… With the board flipped over, testing the wheels - Visually they stay very uniform and there is not wobble to indicate that they may be unbalanced etc… There is a VERY loud sound associated with carving in the front wheels. It sounds unhealthy. (This is on very smooth pavement in my condo’s very large parking lot.) I took it out across the street to much larger parking area by where the asphalt is much rougher, and it definitely is tough on the feet out there too. The large tires did help absorb the large bumps and cracks when I rode through them to test it… But i’m a little torn about that payoff, because with the wheels, i’m also getting much much more vibration, and noise, and rough riding ALL the time on the S1. The skullboard s1 did not make it up the same hill my wowgo2s does. (Both at the highest speed setting.) The s1 crapped out about 60% up the hill to a full stop. I pushed on the throttle til it just would not go anymore… First attempt up the hill was at 75% battery. Second attempt up the hill was with 100% battery. Same exact result. I rode the board until my remote buzzed stating that the battery was at 25%. At this point, there was very significant lag off the line… My total ride time was much shorter than my wowgo2s. and in comparison, my test ride wasn’t even really pushing the speed and terrain as I do i standard rides… When i got home, i touched the rear hubs and truck to feel how hot it was… couldn’t keep my fingers on it for 2 seconds. it was hotttttttt… like worrisome hot… Also, Skullboard s1 was delivered with wires backwards on the hubs so the remote reverse switch is flopped… It is a small deal but man… good quality control is in the details! I’m surely not impressed by the skullboard s1 full setup and those rubber wheels at the moment… But perhaps this can change if I can solve the battery power and torque issues first, then figure out where alllll this vibration and noise is coming from. I’ll try and get some video footage of the sounds and such this weekend.
Cheers! Don Ta
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thats sad to hear
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