Awesome so a complete rewrire. That’s the best.
Funny, originally I thought it was necessary because of the 20A rating. After catching up on all the experiments in this thread, it doesn’t seem to be a limiting factor. While I have all of the things necessary to make the change, I’d rather not and keep everything stock. (I just don’t know where to get the connectors) Nevermind. Duh. I should have just checked the skullboard site.
Aaaaaaaaaaand its gonna cost $25 just for a pair of these cause of the shipping plus the waiting game from China. Full rewire it is!
yes,
we have
2 of the flipsky 50A 60$each
2 of the maytech 50A 70$each
1 duel 50A maytech 100$. pre-production tester
all on hand
and about what it would cost with shipping from aliexpress
@DAddYE @boramiNYC @rey8801 Hey guys I got these wheels and tried with a wowgo ESC. It had problem starting off, maybe what you call cogging? It also would brake at top speed and that was scary as hell!
I then got the cheaper Flipsky dual VESC. Been trying to follow along to emulate the same settings as y’all but having issues still with the cogging at take off. I think I’ve solved the other issues I was having. Any advice on getting the sensors working? Seems like that could fix it. I did re-wire mine to match the 6-pin but can’t get the VESC software to pick it up. Any advice there?
Hi the oggi g problem during the start up can be fixed with a sensored motor. For the worong every motor type is different but you usually have up to 6 wires. The important one for position are 3. Temp, 5V and GND. The rest are for the hall sensors and doesn’t matter the order. What I usually do it to see the position on the original jst Zh and match it with the order you have on the vesc. Most of the time red is 5V, black ground and yellow temp but can be different. Be aware thst some sensored motors are difective and for instance I have a hub motor (one side) were the sensored part doesn’t work. To me what is weird that you have the full brake at to speed. Clogging can be solved if you push the board for take off, the other issue is really dangerous.
The brake at full speed was with wowgo esc. I’m using Flipsky Dual FSESC 4.12 and haven’t had it do that yet. I’ll play around with wires on the 105mm hub motors and the ESC to see if I can get the software to pick up on the sensors. Probably should have tried that before I soldered them together! lol… I just tried catching colors.
Oh and these 105mm wheels seem to NOT use the white wire even though it’s in the wiring hardness. I got the wheels from diyeboard.
colours were never correct for me. You should find the hall sensor order on the Wowgo esc (suppose that it worked there). Otherwise try the combination I told you before. Red 5v and black GND, yellow (some times white) Temp. Usually temp is next to the 5V on the vesc. Anyhow you should see written the pin order on the vesc. One thing you can do is to take the previous jst zh connector that you cut out. Maybe you still have short wires attached. Based on that you can try to see if it already matches the vesc order, in that case simply give the same order at the new ones, no matter the colours as long they go to the same pin position.
I’ve done all that. I matched like so:
Red to red (5v) Black to black (negative) Yellow to yellow Green to green White to white (I cut this wire out just because I saw they didn’t use it in this video) Orange to blue
Not detecting the sensors. I am using FOC at the beginning of the motor setup wizard.
I can’t believe I never saw this thread… These don’t look like too bad of an idea. But 500w is not very much power.
When I read topcloud’s review, I found what I was expecting. Heat, sag, and vibrations. Maybe they forgot the retaining fluid on the bearing shafts? If not, I’d be worried with rattling. Vibrations are not good…
the wheels from stormesk8 look better, but no hub.
I have yet to ride airless tires (I pick my spending battles carefully). It’s a cool idea in theory. And on a hub motor, also. But no factory in china seems they can build good hub motors, unless it’s designed by someone outside of china and then just made there (like the raptor 2 hubs). It’s hard to understand what you need in it if your not an e-skater yourself. For this price, I wouldn’t have high hopes. It seem’s like they cheaped out on the quality of materials (you’d have to to go this low).
Do you still have the old jst? Maybe you can take a picture and compare it with the position on 5he vesc. Because you talk about matching the colors, but I meant match the pin order. Maybe in your new jst PH (VESC compatible) the color are exactly the same but it’s weird that both of the detection doesn’t work. You can also simply try to measure with a volt meter the 5v and gnd pond and see if the 5v direction is correct. So if you place the red probe on the 5v and the black probe on the gnd you should read a positove value (of course motor power on). If you read a negative one than the pin order is not correct and in this case reversed. If you don’t read anything then one of the two is either not 5v or GND.
I was in the process of experimenting when I inadvertently realized it was going to be a failure.
I still have a pair of 90mm hub motors that work fine, but they’re a little rough to ride because they have no cushion, The hub motors are exactly the same as the Skullboard ones, just with different outsides. I was hoping at the end to have the motors hooked up to as FSESC 4.2 so that if necessary, I could adjust settings between the wheels, and change the outside of the hub motor at will (well, maybe not THAT easy).
Turns out that while the hub motors are essentially the same (stator teeth, pole count, windings look the same), the aluminum shaft is machined and mounted differently. I can still make it work, but I’ll need to place washers on the shaft to not allow the motor to shift laterally between the bearings.
Moral of the story: while the Skullboard motors/wheels may appear to be essentially copies of other motors with a similar design, you can’t use all “parts” as “replacements”
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Terrible, but these off-road make this meepo v2 a v3
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What was your experience like @DaTech ??
Did you also swap out to Skullboard’s esc?
Did you machine your own hanger to get the rear hubs on to that avenue suspension baseplate? Any more pics?
haha i didn’t realize the meepo hub cap was a 1:1 swap.
All of the above
They are smooth, silent, grippy. Originally custom built meepo v2 esc (25mph) & Motors. Did some light drilling to pop it in the Ave trucks. Meepos Hub caps a few mms off of skulls. Tried to swap the inner Motors but no success. Paid 110$ for those weak’o rear wheels, they were not about to sit around 🙅 collecting dust. If they do it’ll be the right way
Yours are silent and smooth!?!?!! i’m jealous! (would love to catch a vid of your hubs in action to hear it!)
Mine are riddled with heavy vibration and very loud rattles. 
What do you mean you did some light drilling to pop it in the ave trucks? Did you modify the Avenue Hanger? or the Stock Hanger?
So despite your copy being smooth and silent - they are still pretty low-torque and thirsty for battery right?
Not at all battery hungry, Im still using my super powerfull meepo v2 Motors. Tossing skulls (useless), took me down 4 sr8 blocks on full charge & my board was 10%. Said no way 
oohhh i gotcha… You stripped the skullboard hubs… took the tires and stuck them to your meepo sleeves? Did you have to also strip the thane off of the meepo sleeves? or did you just stretch the tire over it? What kind of adhesive? Any more pics of the process?? Also still trying to figure out your hanger setup.