105mm airless tire hub motor

The amps to the motor will be the same regardless of the voltage of the battery and converted by the esc. Just as hot. Why people say they have experienced cooler motor temp w higher voltage doesn’t make sense.

Be nice to know what temp the mags can hit before demagnetized.

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I thought the logic behind is that the power is watt= volt x A. So if you have a max of 20A you can play with voltage to get more watt for the same current. Why do you think that doesn’t make sense? I mean you build motor so I would like to hear from you. Thx

The esc converts the battery voltage to current so u can have more amps going to the motor than came from the battery. Only amps create torque in the motor. So u could have battery amps set to maybe just 20 but have motor amps set to 100 and it would only take max 20 from the battery yet have up to 100 going to the motor at slowest speeds. The conversion to amps happens based on the duty cycle which is same as the rpm so at slowest soled the most conversion can happen I think foc is a bit more efficient in the motor at least. But if the rubber can take the heat and the magnets can too then doesn’t matter really. What temp can the magnets get to is worth knowing. They will demagnetize permanently over the temp and also lose partial magnetism non-permanently on the way up to that temp. And the motor compensates w more amps needed and greater heat

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I tried 20A for motor and the torque feels weak. Feels similar to the Wowgo2s ESC in acceleration. I think 20A is a safe estimate. I changed it back to 30A and the accel is so much better. I think I’ll play around 30A for motor.

Batt min also at -8A made the brake a bit weaker, I have it to -16A and the brake is stronger.

If anyone’s trying the same, I’m not riding in these setting extensively. Just a few miles at a time for testing at the moment, so use these numbers at your own risk.

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Just pay attention - 16A each vesc is out of the safe zone for your battery.

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Allright try these settings. They should work better with these hubs. Don’t just use random settings you have potential to damage your battery.

Motor max 60A Motor min - 30A Battery max 20A Battery min - 8A

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I think u can set the regen higher than the stated battery charge rate. If the difference is possibly decreasing the cycles of the battery vs having brakes n not crashing the latter sounds better. The charge rate stated by the manufacturer is just one number but the reality is it depends on the cell’s SOC (state of charge) and u can jam more amps in at the lower SOC. The indication of decreasing cycles is heat. If ur charging or discharging and getting hot they’re being pushed hard. Maybe add some airflow and I’ve heard of batteries getting hot as the heat is trapped in the enclosure. Unless ur riding in the wetness much better for your stuff with an airflow to let the heat not accumulate. And then when ur braking it’s a short pulse given to the cells n not sustained. I’ve read many studies where cells actually benefit, and this is many chemistries including lithium, where you make the cells ability to store energy better with huge current blasted in with both pulses or extended charging as it smoothens out the formation of the dendrite growth which are the main culprit with decreasing storage and also internal shorting. Not fully charging also is a big plus in this regard. 4.15 max and cranking the regen braking way up gets my vote

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True that. These short regen pulses should not be compared with continuous charge rates. While charging the batteries with high current they will heat up and that is one of the biggest damaging factors. But when it comes to regen that is so short so it really can be neglected. And in the end breaking 1 meter earlier or later could mean the difference between under a truck or near the truck haha.

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Not much improvement in torque for motor 60A over 30A. I think I’ll stick with 30A.

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I’m unable to detect the hall sensors on Vesc 6. Any idea why @SKULLBOARD ?

Ok, I’m on 25 -45 30 -15, on a Sanyo 10s2p. The motor cogs when I start, it might bea issue with the flipsky 6. I’m running senseless because it can’t detect the hall table.

Here a quick run: https://metr.at/r/9EEEV

Please try upping ur motor amps a lot and see how it performs. In my experience it can greatly reduce cogging and help low speed power

Thanks man. Like 60 each? Should I keep my battery max 30? IIRC the Sanyo 10s2p is 60

Unless ur Vesc is crap u should be fine at even 100 motor amps. Especially on foc it makes for a much better ride without sensors. Try at least a minute and tell us what u think. If anyone has a good reason he shouldn’t do this is like to hear. But maybe even drop the battery amps down a bit. Like 30 or even down from there at first. Feel it out. I forget the ratio that will get u specific consistent wattages at full throttle but yea drop the battery amps down a bit and please try it

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Thanks mate. I’ll try motor 100, brakes -46, battery max 30, max regen -15. I’ve flipsky 6.6. Should be fine.

Hi, I tried Motor 100, Battery 30 and acceleration was too rough. It still cogs while starting. IIRC @mmaner has a similar issue with the flipsky 4.2.

What really was strange (I had an incident because of that) is that the accelerator got stuck at max speed! See 11.13am.

I lowered to 60a, 30a and things are bit smoother. I’ll test more today. I’m open to suggestions.

Any idea why the nanox got stuck?

Thanks!

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did you run in foc? maybe try sensorless with the recommended higher amps

I’m on FOC sensorless because it can’t detect the hall sensors :frowning:

I forgot to add the link to the metr.at: https://metr.at/r/CiIhf

did you try bldc or a hybrid mode