Getting around the second time to try to build a custom e-board. Last time I got so frustrated finding parts that ended up getting an Yuneec E-Go, then a month after got a single motor boosted which I love. I still own both, but it’s time to go back and build one with no hurry. This should be fun…
I have one of each motor, will only be using one of them:
6374 190KV
6355 190KV
I read this awesome article@onloop which help me understand more batteries prior to posting this, still I don’t understand which battery i need to purchase for my motor, for the example 6355. I’d like to achieve decent speed (not more than 25mph) and distance other than torque. I know these motors are torqui. I’ll be using a basic 1/8 scale ESC 120a (HobbyWing EZRUN-WP-SC8).
I plan to use a series connector which I think will allow me to have two thinner batteries below the deck instead of a huge thick one. Again, I could be completely wrong, I don’t know much.
Looking to order batteries from Amazon, they have so many.
So for your type of motors, I’d say anywhere from 8s to 12s will work. The ESC is your problem. Double check the specs: your ESC only takes up to 4 lipo cells
Awesome! Just ordered a decent ESC that will support up to 6S. I really don’t wan’t more than 25mph. Any particular 3S battery you prefer @anorak234? mAh & cells?
Honestly go with a 6s2p lion if possible. I use 2 Zippy 3s 5000Mah lipo batteries but have had to get several more since initial buying because they failed so easily. I’ve spent 150 bucks now on 25$ batteries. I know @link5505 and @barajabali make 6s2p as I am currently looking into buying batteries from either of them
I would recommend @torqueboards for any first build.
If you are in the US they are very fast on delivery and have very good customer service. Their stuff is pretty reliable.
No Regenerative Brake - The ESC has three settings for running mode. (1) Fwd / Brake. (2) Fwd/ Reverse with Brake. (3) Fwd and Reverse. I’ve tried all of them and the braking is not great. The motor also makes a weird sound when hitting brake/reverse.
Maybe VESC is the solution to most of these issues.
Idk exactly what I did, I’m usually on flat ground. 16/36 ratio, 2 X 20C 3s lipos in series. Got the SK3 192kv motor, 90mm wheels. Biggest difference in mine from most is weight. I weigh 140lbs, my board is around 20. That esk8 calculator thing also wasn’t accurate for me, I’m assuming that it uses a fixed value for ‘weighted’ top speed
The calculator measures distance values based on the input variables. If you do the math manually it checks out. If you’re getting higher speeds than what the calculator says, then one or more of the fields is inaccurate, or you’re gaining speed form another source such as a downhill. Perhaps you have a higher KV motor than what’s printed on it, or perhaps it’s a different pulley. It could be a number of things.
Yep! If all specs are accurate on the parts themselves and you overcome resistance such as hills, wind, rough roads, weight, etc to reach peak effiency you should be getting close the top speed on the calculator.
@Jinra i ordered two motor pulleys to try out. One 20T and a 24T. Theoretically If I increment the tooth on motor, it should increase speed. The calculator says that by adding 5 more tooth it will increase 5-6 mph. No idea.
Running with a reduction that low on 6s will lead to an early death in your ESC and/or motor. You generally don’t want to go under 2:1 ratio. 2.5:1 and higher is better for 6s
