You can use an anti spark loop plug or an anti-spark switch. A BMS with an e-switch works too.
okay thanks
will this parallel charging board work with my 5s LiPo Batteries. 5s 8000MaH 30C
http://hobbyking.com.au/hobbyking/store/_31676__Hobbyking_Parallel_Charging_Board_for_6_Battery_Packs_2_6S_XT_90.html
Also can i plug it straight into my charger or do i need an adapter?
also can you have a antispark switch and on/off switch?
The charge board should work, just make sure your plug everything in correctly. You can have both anti-spark switch and another on/off switch, but I’m not sure why you’d want to.
I use a much cheaper soldering station, Aoyue 469. Not on the same level as the Hakko, and it’s not digital, but it’s a fairly decent unit. Especially for $30.
Also, don’t forget to pick up shrink tube, adhesive backed velcro, jumper cables, power source to program your VESC, Cable clamps/clips, and some 1/8" adhesive foam padding. Always helps to have those around.
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And watch some youtube videos on soldering. It’s not hard and you’ll be glad you learned this skill as now you don’t depend on pre-made adapters, wires with a pre-set length, nothing. Also order a solder sucker for desoldering. Comes in handy.
Leo
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Thanks for the little bits, this is what i was looking for. What would you recommend as a power source?
At the moment i have these item for the setup…
I am going to order the VESC from DIY
And I’ve ordered a soldering station from amazon.
All i think I’m missing is the controller/reciever and enclosure right? or is there more?
Also is it worth getting a battery indicator and watt meter?
Its actually beneficial to have both. The resistor in the anti spark loop will limit the sudden rush of current when the switch is flipped on, making the capicitors in your esc and the mosfets in your switch last longer. The soft switches we all buy should really have a resistor built in, this is why the mosfets fail “on” so often.
Yea but he said “anti spark switch” which already acts as an on/off switch.
Yea it acts like a switch but if you take one apart they actually have zero anti spark functionality. The mosfets just open up and then it’s as if the switch was just a standard wire. There is a load from the capacitors on the esc so there is a quick high amp load and this wears out the mosfets and caps. Either wire in a resitor to the switch, or use a loop key between the battery and soft switch.
You sure about that? It seems weird to me, that a device called “anti spark switch” would have no anti spark features, and would be damaged by doing the thing it was designed to do. Wouldn’t R1/R2 be the resistors?
I know for a fact im right about the high in rush current https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-charge . And i know for a fact i’ve had 2 out of 3 mosfets in my own vedder switch fail because of it. I’ll have to look at the circuit later tonight more in depth but i dont remember seeing a resistor when i took the physical board apart i had at home.
I am wondering if a Watt/Volt mater is necessary for the board and what is it used for? sorry if this is a stupid question. I know it can measure the watts/volts whilst riding, but with a VESC cant you set a max input so that the volts will only go to a certain amount. Or is this used to find out what that amount is?
No questions is a stupid question… Volt meters in my opinion are necessary, it tells you when the battery is going to die, before the VESC/ esc does, so it allows got to get slowed down before you come to a grinding stop. (Not sure if vesc does this). I also find it useful to tell me about how much more riding I can get in before the battery died.
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I’ve heard of people using them to set everything up and then remove them once everything is configured.so i was wondering how necessary they are…
Raf, please keep your questions in one thread.
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I took another look at the circuit there is no resistor connecting the input line. The resistors you see are just passive components.