Village Cruiser | Blank 36.5” Cruiser deck | Torque 6374 190kv | 10s4p Li-Ion | Caliber II 44 deg | 83mm Flywheel clones | Torque ESC VESC-- UPDATE: she lives/lived

@Tampaesk8er- your board and someone else’s (who I’m blanking on) inspired me to go CF vinyl. Definitely going to take my chances. I ride mostly smooth roads anyway.

I appreciate the offer @mmaner. I went with the black ones instead.

Thread update- Everything has been ordered except for the VESC. The Enertion VESC is out of stock so I’m going to wait and see when they get them back in stock.

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The components are rolling in… I should start putting some thought into wiring, how I’m going to secure components to the deck (I’m thinking Velcro?), and an enclosure.

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I think I’m just about set on the wiring diagram. Should I insert an anti spark switch where the battery connects to the VESC? My battery came with an on/off switch, but from what I’ve read it might be safer with an anti spark. If so, I would have to turn on the power switch then plug in the anti spark to make use out of it, right? Or leave the switch on all the time and only use the anti-spark key? Or just pull the on/off switch?

@JLabs-- Do you have any input here?

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The diagram looks good, you will be fine using the built-in switch. No need for an antispark

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This thread has advice about CF vinyl on decks:

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Slight change of plans-- I’m tired of waiting for Enertion to restock their VESC so I’m going to go with the Torque VESC from diyelectricskateboard with the added male to male servo connector for receiver.

I’m still waiting on the 6374 190Kv motor, which is out of stock. The 6355 190Kv motor is in stock. How much of a performance difference would there be if I went with the 6355 instead of the 6374?

I’m thinking of grabbing one of the diy vesc as well for my single build can’t wait to see how it does

And so the built begins.

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Already ran into two situations. Firstly, the key for the keyshaft was too long and slightly too wide. I had to use my dremel to grind it down slightly.

Now onto an issue I’m not so sure on… as I understand, you typically be want the motor wires to exit from the rear in order to allow for some play in the wires. When I mount it this way on my torqueboard mount it seem so very tight. Not only could the wires get crushed, but I could also see them touching the motor and shredding them.

The other option would be roc run them in front like this:

Hasn’t anyone been through this with the torque mount?

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I’m not sure, can I see some more upright pics of your setup from different angles? Im not sure what it is bt something doesn’t seem right.

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Don’t mind the tape-- Taking measurements for the enclosure. I think if I kick the wires straight out and have them loop around like the picture below, it should allow for enough slack in the wires to avoid getting pulled. Curious to hear thoughts tho. This is my first rodeo

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Hmmm, nothing looks wrong with it, I must have been crazy the first time I looked at it. You could try using a longer belt to increase that distance but honestly I think you are fine like the setup in the last picture. I am running my wires like in that picture and i have no problems.

I have my wires like that on both my eboards and never had issues, i clamped them to my deck so no movement, just incase.

I’m working through VESC setup. I got motor detection done and adjusted my settings. I’m able to control the motor with my keyboard, however, I can’t get my receiver to control it. I feel like I’m probably overlooking something pretty simple…

Any thoughts?

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I don’t have a VESC in front of me to verify but from the markings it looks like the servo connector is backwards. You have it correct on the receiver. Also did you set the min/max ppm values in the PPM tab? The values look standard. The auto wizard works quite well to set these values.

Also of your using Nico’s firmware why not watt control no reverse with brake?

Hope that helps! Jared

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Thanks, @JLabs! That worked.

I haven’t gotten far enough to understand watt control vs current. I’ll do some reading, but is it more or less click and play or would I need to adjust other settings elsewhere?

Basically click and play. You can then go to the throttle control tab and adjust the acceleration and brakes. Nico has good tutorials in the thread:

Let me know if you have any other questions about it!
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So I finally (almost) completed this build today. I got her out for a test ride, but it was short lived. Before final assembly and test ride I somehow fried my charging port while I was trying to put it in place. Decent pop and spark. I think I’m Gonna have to order another one.

Final:

I too kind her out for a quick test ride and it was great…until it wasn’t. One of the motor wires got pulled into the motor and got ~50% shredded.

It still functions, however, I don’t know how safe it is. Is it possible to solder over the strands, heat shrink and run like that? Or will I need to re-wire or replace the motor?

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