Village Cruiser | Blank 36.5” Cruiser deck | Torque 6374 190kv | 10s4p Li-Ion | Caliber II 44 deg | 83mm Flywheel clones | Torque ESC VESC-- UPDATE: she lives/lived

[do_a_kickflip]

Hello hello.

I’ve been lurking around the boards for a few months procrastinating about diving in and embarking on my first build. Well here it goes.

Background: I grew up skating and still you a standard kick-push skate deck as a commuter in NYC about 50% of the time. After discovering eSkates, I decided to back a board on kickstarter. After months and months of delays, I said “fuck this, I’m gonna build my own”.

Goals: To build a fast, reliable board that has good range. You know, just the trifecta of a perfect board… hah. Honestly though, I just want something that will be fun to zip around on long joyrides mostly. I will likely use the smaller mass produced board as my daily commuter if it ever arrives.

Sidenote: This is my first build. I would love any feedback at all-- especially if something looks wrong. Below is the general plan. I still haven’t thought about all the wiring needs in terms of what connections and what gauge wire (if anything needs to be changed?).

The Plan:

The Deck: Moose 36.5" Cruiser deck. 24" wheelbase. I really want something with a kicktail, but also with a decent wheelbase. This fits the bill.

The Motor: Torque 6374 190kv. Reason-- I think a 190kv is ideal for my battery setup…

The battery: 10s4p Samsung 25r li-ion pack, 77a BMS with eSwitch, battery percentage meter (not pictures) and 42v 2a charger to power this badboy. Thanks again @JLabs !

The trucks: Caliber Trucks Cal II 44° RKP

The Wheels: 83mm Longboard Flywheels Wheels + ABEC 7 Bearings. Decent affordable option. Thinking white…

The Motor Mount: Torque boards single drive mount for 63mm motor

The Motor Pulley Kit: DIY Electric Skateboard 36T ABEC Pulley Combo Kit. Question here: What belt length should I be looking at-- 255mm, 265mm, or 280mm?

The Remote: Nano V2 (group buy). My number 1 priortiy, riding in NYC, is safety. Is this a reliable remote? I can’t afford a remote that will fling me off or cut out…

The VESC: Enertion VESC-X

The Enclousure: TBD. Open to suggestions. I’d like a clean, professional looking plastic enclousure.

Misc: LED Lights: Carbon Fiber Vinyl for the deck underside.

Thanks for reading if you made it this far. I will be sure to keep this thread up to date as a means to share my build, keep myself accountable, and ask some questions along the way. So far I only have the battery, so I’m holding off on ordering my parts for a few days to see if I can kick up some feedback.

[Smorto]

Looks good so far to me, the only problem I see is the remote. I have heard that that remote is just a re-skin of the original nano remote which is known to be unreliable. I use the GT2B with a 3d printed case and that works great for me. If your mind is set on a small form factor, the mini remote is good if you don’t mind a trigger style. A third option would be the bench wheel remote for a thumb control and reliability.

[NickTheDude]

+1 for the GT2B, if you don’t have access to a 3D printer you can try to find someone that will print a new case for you at 3dhubs.com, or you could buy a mastercho mod cause their awesome.

For the belt lenght you generally want the pulleys as close together as possible so 255 or 265 would be ideal.

A while ago I made a thread with a few enclosure suggestions that might help out, I have one from pfc and another from elephant cases. The elephant case is better looking and definitely thicker/more protective though.

Some Enclosure Suggestions

[mmaner]

The build looks solid. I will warn you that white flywheel clones get fuggin ugly quick, mine are kind of a light brown color with only 59 miles on them.

As far as remotes are concerned… If you like a thumb trigger you can’t beet the Benchwheel and Nano-X remotes. If you want an index finger trigger look at the GT2B and the ton of mods available.

[do_a_kickflip]

@Smorto – Thanks for the advice about the remote. Since I am already in for the group buy, maybe I will look into benchweel remote as well. Something tells me this won’t be my last board, so having two isn’t the worst problem in the world.

@NickTheDude – Pulleys as close as possible. Got it. I’ll shoot for the 255mm belt. Great enclousure thread also-- thanks!

@mmaner – I was up in the air on white wheels anyway. I think i’m going to rethink it. 59 miles is nothing to be getting all fugly.

[Eboosted]

Do not use clone wheels, they are too hard, get abec 11 flywheels.

Do not use that remote get the mini 2.4ghz remote, it’s cheaper and more reliable

Forget about the carbon fiber vinyl, it won’t last a week, as soon as it start to tear apart you will regret it, besides the enclosure will cover most of the deck underneath and the grip tape will cover everything on the top.

Everything else is perfect

[Tampaesk8er]

The controller, I currently use this controller on both my eboards, never had any issues with it, from what i’ve seen in this forum, alot of people use this controller. I got mine on ebay, cheap price but it took 2wks to arrive.

[Tampaesk8er]

I bought these lights for my eboards, the rear lights i’m gonna paint red, 1 or 2 in front and back. Very bright.

[Tampaesk8er]

I have CF vinyl on both my boards and its been holding on strong, no rips.

[mmaner]

I’ve got these 83mm flywheel clones, they are fugly but you can have them if u wanna pay the shipping.

[do_a_kickflip]

@Tampaesk8er- your board and someone else’s (who I’m blanking on) inspired me to go CF vinyl. Definitely going to take my chances. I ride mostly smooth roads anyway.

[do_a_kickflip]

I appreciate the offer @mmaner. I went with the black ones instead.

Thread update- Everything has been ordered except for the VESC. The Enertion VESC is out of stock so I’m going to wait and see when they get them back in stock.

[do_a_kickflip]

The components are rolling in… I should start putting some thought into wiring, how I’m going to secure components to the deck (I’m thinking Velcro?), and an enclosure.

[do_a_kickflip]

I think I’m just about set on the wiring diagram. Should I insert an anti spark switch where the battery connects to the VESC? My battery came with an on/off switch, but from what I’ve read it might be safer with an anti spark. If so, I would have to turn on the power switch then plug in the anti spark to make use out of it, right? Or leave the switch on all the time and only use the anti-spark key? Or just pull the on/off switch?

@JLabs-- Do you have any input here?

[JLabs]

The diagram looks good, you will be fine using the built-in switch. No need for an antispark

[treenutter]

@do_a_kickflip

Carbon Fiber Vinyl for the deck underside.

This thread has advice about CF vinyl on decks:

Carbon Fiber Vinyl - Wrapping a deck

[do_a_kickflip]

Slight change of plans-- I’m tired of waiting for Enertion to restock their VESC so I’m going to go with the Torque VESC from diyelectricskateboard with the added male to male servo connector for receiver.

I’m still waiting on the 6374 190Kv motor, which is out of stock. The 6355 190Kv motor is in stock. How much of a performance difference would there be if I went with the 6355 instead of the 6374?

[jaymu86]

I’m thinking of grabbing one of the diy vesc as well for my single build can’t wait to see how it does

[do_a_kickflip]

And so the built begins.

[do_a_kickflip]

Already ran into two situations. Firstly, the key for the keyshaft was too long and slightly too wide. I had to use my dremel to grind it down slightly.

Now onto an issue I’m not so sure on… as I understand, you typically be want the motor wires to exit from the rear in order to allow for some play in the wires. When I mount it this way on my torqueboard mount it seem so very tight. Not only could the wires get crushed, but I could also see them touching the motor and shredding them.

The other option would be roc run them in front like this:

Hasn’t anyone been through this with the torque mount?