I reorganized and improved the structure of my first post from this thread. Please take the time and read it again 
Some Feedback and help would make me happy even if you are guessing!
Can you measure both of the lipo packs seperatly? Just guessing …
I have in mind that both lipos were depleted equally. But when i am at home i will make another testride and check it exactly.
My guess is you are seeing less range due to inefficient settings in the VESC. Your also running on the short side of the VESC with your battery. 10s+ will mean more torque with less heat.
And it seems you are hitting some limit with heat. At 6s, you pull many more amps, and more heat. With a single drive train at 6s, I can’t imagine the VESC staying cool. I burned up 2x 120 amp fvt escs back in the day on a 6s. While the settings had some to do with it, the VESC is rated at half of that, 60a.
My point is I would recommend putting you lipos in series to get 8ah at 12s.
More range and less heat, and I think most of your problems would go away.
In terms of the other problems, Weak braking is a sign of bad settings, so is weak torque (though again, 12s torque is much better than 6s torque). You need to learn to configure the VESC with the correct settings in order to get the performance you want.
I had no problems of overheating with the YEP 14S 120a heli Esc running at 6s! Also the VESC does Not get Hot just warm.
But when i am at home i will solder a series Adapter and try again.
Bad bldc settings? I just posted pictures of my settings. Which setting is insufficient?
You appear to have the motor type set to FOC, are you aware of this ? Before you do anything else, I would advise you to set the motor type to BLDC and run a motor detection as described in this thread. Then do a test ride and report back.
Your YEP 120a esc can run at double the amps (which means it dissipates heat better also). the VESC can only run at 60a constant max.
On 6s, I bet you are hitting that 60 amp limit for most of your ride, which is heating up the VESC.
Remember, more amps = more heat.
You may need closer to 80 or 100 amps constantly with a 6s config. Higher voltage requires less amps for the same acceleration and speed. On a 12s config, you may need only 40 or 50 amps constantly, meaning less heat.
However, I had not checked your motor. It seems like your motor is a 10s max, you you will blow out your motor if you run at 12s.
So do NOT put the in series as I suggested before with this motor
I would recommenced a motor like the r-spec with the battery at 12s. Alternatively, you can go back to your old esc.
This motor with the VESC would take your board to whole nother level 
http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/6374-190kv-electric-skateboard-motor/
I was aware that i have setted up FOC. Anyways i did forgot to do a Motor detection…
Yesterday i made a Motor detection and made another test run. As always i can drive about 30km/h in the beginning but after some time stucked at 20. I also do not have a good acceleration. If i make a Brake and wait for a a moment i can drive fast again.
Low Voltage Cut Off
Link to your battery pack states 22.2V - the start of your low voltage cutoff is 22V
Overheating VESC - suggest :-
Take out of 1st aid enclosure and see if that makes a difference, if it does:-
Heat sink FETS Install a 5V fan in enclosure
I had similar issue - turned out LV cut off was set too high and also VESC was overheating when enclosed.
1 Like
My low voltage cut off is set at 33V - 10S2P 8000mAh
I’ve just skated until LVC kicked in - measured battery at 35.8V.
Try lowering your LVC to 19.8 and see if it makes a difference.
Maybe there is a voltage sag under load and the LVC kicks in too soon?
Yes, exactly 
My settings provide a good LV buffer - 3.58V, can easily limp another mile or so without risk.
I tested to lower the LVC but it does not help.
I will attach a fan to VESC and test it again.
I will keep you guys informed
I’d try just taking it out of the enclosure first.
Perhaps VESC is not the tool for your setup and simply cannot supply constant draw required for the performance you want. The VESC works within your motors parameters whereas your earlier ESC has a ‘take it you bitch’ attitude - I liked that with mine.
To get performance to a level or greater than that of your earlier ESC, you may, as other posters have stated, need to change motor to lower kV and step up to 10 or 12S. As this requires a significant cash outlay you will need to weigh up pros and cons of doing so.
I do hope that cooling solves your problems.
Bear in mind when the FETS overheat on a VESC they will be back to normal temperature by the time you feel them (it takes seconds for them to cool back down), unless you can ride with your hand on the VESC. So feeling the VESC after riding isn’t a good indicator of heat performance.
All you have to do is take it out of your enclosure and you’ll see immediately if you have a heat problem.
6S setups put far too many Amps through VESCs. They are rated at around 60-70Amps. My 6S setup pulls over 100Amps regularly. Hence I use a EZRun Pro car ESC.
When my battery is at 22.8v (your “empty” voltage) - I still have loads to go. 22.9v on mine and I have 4Ah of usable power remaining, leaving a firther 20% as a safetly margin). - That equates to over 4 miles for me. I end up at around 21volts empty.
With @dogeatgod 's board, we had overheating even at 10s, with the correct gearing for 30mph+. Adding a fan has instantly removed the problem. But he’s (as am I) heavier than younger riders. Both around 90kg
Thanks for all the nice help!!
You are right, my VESC was overheating. So i attached a Fan. (Fortunatly i had a sbec for a future light mod with 12v output 
)
Now it is driving like a charm.
Again Thanks to the supporters, nice forum!!
Glad you got it sorted : )
If I were you I’d get rid of that foil. It’s a short circuit waiting to happen.
2 Likes
I am glad that i get feedback of the foil because i dont know if it was the ideal idea. Before the vesc lays on Form. Can You maybe give me a Tip what i could use?
You already have a heat problem so you want as little thermal insulation as possible, so get rid of the foam as well. Ideally you should mount the VESC to your enclosure using standoffs so air can reach the underside of the PCB. You can see the standoffs in this picture:
To prevent accidental short circuits I’d also advise you to shrink-wrap your VESC but leave the MOSFET visible so they can be cooled.
1 Like