Does it have any drawback using battery sleds instead of spot welding (or direct soldering) the cells?
I think about the resistance between the sled and the battery connectors. Driving significant current through this resistor can result in heat and loss. Or if you use several cells in parallel, then the current load is divided among the cells. So there is not much to worry about?
Actually I don’t have access to a spot welder, so I’m planning to use sleds as well…
The pack stays cool my whole ride, and I got the sleds with the lowest resistance I could find.
I can pull a cell out if one goes bad, or change the whole pack to a completely different 18650 chemistry in a matter of minutes, and I don’t have to heat up each cell with a soldering iron.
Also, I don’t know why people were cracking on that BMS I was selling. I have one on this build (single Tacon 160 245kv, 10s, 8:1 reduction, 8in mountainboard tires) and everything works well. I go up hills and off road all the time without any issues.
It says 20a continuous, but over-current doesn’t kick in until 100a+, which is perfect, yet people wanna get a BMS that is 3 times the size, when it isn’t even needed.
We plan on improving the page more, so that in the future people could easy take a look at numerous boards and see what their stats are! Especially for VESC, energy use and Ride conditions etc…
As of right now there should be a working ‘‘compare view’’, to compare two boards / builds. We plan on implementing a function to compare exact criteria you would like to see and finally export it to excel or other charts…
Othern than that - could u share where you found your battery sleds? Yours look a little bit different from what I’ve seen on ebay.
Great site, I’m waiting on some equipment so I can do more testing on this setup.
I got my sleds here:
I got the ones with the SMT tabs because my outside resources suggested that the bronze-type tabs are better (less resistance) than the silver colored ones.
2*18650 Battery Clip Holder w/ SMT mount (the one with the gold colored tabs)
Tips: if you use some thick gauge single strand (solid) copper wire (I used 4 gauge), you will have a very hard time soldering unless you remove the thin enamel on the wire (I did this by lightly scuffing/sanding the places I wanted to solder).
I had the same problem when lengthening my Tacon wires; it looks like they directly use the leftover wire from the windings to make the 3 phase leads rather than soldering on some flexible wire.
Also, test EVERY connection; I had one parallel group that only had 2 out of 4 cells connected, so I had to repair the joint and balance the cells in that group individually before reconnecting everything.
Do you have more detailed pictures of your soldering and how you done it by any chance? I’ve never built a battery but this might be the best chance to get one for my build. I might do it 12s2p though
I’ve posted all of the pictures I have on this thread.
Generally, it’s best to connect parallel groups first (you would have twelve groups of two), then connect everything in series.
If you have any questions let me know
Is there any chance you can post directions on how you were able to wire all the sleds together then to the switch and charging port? I’ve been searching for days on how to do this and can’t find any help