Truck tuning tips and suggestions

Anyone have any truck tuning tips or products they wanna share to get the ultimate ride?

Please provide links to any products.

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To build on this question, what is the best way to prevent speed wobbles besides a better stance? Bushings? Tighter trucks?

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http://www.riptidesports.com/weight-application-charts/

http://www.riptidesports.com/aps-krank-wfb-explained/

I learned this from downhill longboarders setups. Put a barrel Aps riptide roadside and a barrel wfb boardside. Buy according to weight. Still get deep turning and maximum control. No need to overtighten, works best when you tighten just enough to stop the bushing from spinning in place. For me I noticed zero wobble and deep smooth even sharper turning that pops back to center on command. Honestly it’s the best thing I’ve done for my board. I love to speed and be safe so I figured the downhillers had the answer and I was right.

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Oh also I use flat washers…

Gees might have to buy a bunch off different bushings and try them out eh?

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  1. Take out your stock bushings and promptly throw them in the trash

  2. Buy a handful of quality bushings and experiment. Just a few pairs of barrels in a range of duros will suit you well

  3. Consider a directional setup with a de-wedged rear truck. Note that lower angle baseplates require a harder bushing. Something like 85/88a front, 90/93a rear might be a good starting point

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An adjustable angle base plate can help you dial in your ride perfectly. This will be on all the Pre-Ordered Rraptor 2 if we reach our stretch goals.

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Yep!

(i’ve always liked the high rebound riptides)

Good bushings are such a huge difference and help. I like the super high rebound varieties. Riptide, Blood Orange, Venom, etc.

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I personally prefer barrels on top and bottom for stability. It does limit your turning radius a bit, so I opt for softer bushings. What’s right for you will depend on your weight and how your ride. The same bushings will react very differently to someone who is 200lbs vs. 150lbs.

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Yeah I was looking over the chart

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You can buy a bunch of bushings or take my suggestion. You won’t be disappointed I promise. Just buy them for your weight according to the chart. Two barrels. One aps roadside and one wfb boardside. Riptide all the way…

Pivot cup???

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These are the best with Wfb self lubing material… http://www.riptidesports.com/pivot-cups-and-tubes-explored/

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Im also using Riptide bushings and pivot cups. great for carving and stable at speed.

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For that Faux Precision feel…

Amish cup washers and precision wheel spacers from Buzzed. 304 Stainless and made in the U.S.A! Good prices and really nice quality. http://www.buzzedtrucks.com/product-category/amishwashers/

Riptide WFB pivot cups…MUST HAVE…

Tip: Doesn’t hurt to drop a couple of drops of graphite lube in the cup. They are supposed to have lubricant impregnated into the thane, but the graphite seems to make the action just a bit smoother. Less is more. A buck more expensive than the other guys, but FREE SHIPPING on ALL US orders with no minimum order. Sick…Plus they have some of the greatest customer service in the Biz. They have the best prices on Luxe risers as well. Cheaper than Ebay by a mile. Ebay: $7.99-1/2". Thanestore: $3.00/ $2 for 1/4"… http://www.thanestore.com/collections/longboard-bushings/products/luxe-longboard-riser-pad?variant=12024063041

Tip: When you go to reassemble your trucks take a good look at the pivot and the axle points. Look for any surface irregularities formed during the casting process. Make sure there is no excess aluminum on the flat spots around the axles. Also take a good look at the pivot. IMO the bushing seats usually are pretty clean, but check em’ anyway. On my Caliber2s there was some excess material on my pivots that I was able to scrape off with a razor and finish with some 220dry to remove blade marks followed by 400-800 wet sandpaper to get the finish smooth. Be careful to not take too much off and change the pivot’s dimensions. Less is more. Bushings are subjective. Use what you like. Try a few things. (Then get some Riptide bushings :+1:) Riptide Kranks are dope as hell.

Use a lock washer under your kingpin nut. For stability.

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@Esrapp21

Cool thread. I think I somewhere also saw that there are some trucks which can be reversed, though im not sure can you do this with all trucks… In my experience risers also influence the feel of the board… but for the speed it is probably better to stay lower than higher.

Hey buddy, the President from Riptide @Alphamail just joined the forum. He might be the guy to ask about truck tuning…:slight_smile:

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I posted this on another thread earlier tonight and editeded it to work here:

Most stock bushings come in at the high 80’s or low 90’s but but durometer is only one measure of a bushing’s performance. Rebound, the shape of the bushing and the compound itself have a lot to do with how they respond as well as the type of washers you are using. As for wobble, the bulk of wobbles come from your weight placement on the board as well as running a steep angled truck front and rear. Your weight needs to be over the front truck so you move with the turning moment. If you weight is on the rear, you are behind the front’s motion and it progressively gets worse leading to wider and wider wobbles until you depart the board. The next time you start to feel the wobs, weight the front truck and relax, yes, RELAX your legs and keep the throttle even or slightly accelerate or decelerate. This is you best chance to ride it out. The best way to confront wobble issues is to design it out of the board completely by using a steeper angled front truck than rear. We call this a split set up and it is what most Downhill racers use!

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If you want the best ride you need the best trucks. You need some Ronin’s in your life. You can get your calibers to feel decent with some new riptide pivots some new bushings but it’s no comparison to Ronin’s with the low 42 degree angle for stability but some rake to compensate, so it’s stable yet very turny, throw on some cupped precision washer and forget about it. Also they have noticeable more vibration dampening and I could rock 97mm wheels on a dropped board because they don’t shorten wheelbase much thats why my calibers are in the junk in my garage. Only negative is you have to rig up your own motor mount/adapter but it’s worth it. Sorry for my rant

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