Sounds good i just bought the 218mm and im looking for bushings and pivot cups? what would you guys recommend in Europe
Can theese be used i never bought bushings before so i dont know? https://www.skatehut.co.uk/brands/bones_wheels/bones_hardcore_bushings_hard_4_pack.htm
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I’m just going to put this here since it deals with TorqueBoards 218mm truck stability: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855766
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How do you mount the bushings, with the cone up or down on both?
Find and read the bushing thread…
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the terminology is board side, road side.
ah… i put the cone bushing road side, barrel bushing board side. the top end of the cone bushing should always face roadside. this is on my smaller, more nimble mono drive board.
the faster dual drive one i use barrel bushing on both sides, but the soft duro roadside.
hope that made sense.
but like squish said, read the bushing thread, the man that actually makes them has some great info:
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I tried these little rings or “keys” as they are called. Made a massive difference to the precision of the handeling. Allowing me to run looser trucks and be more stable at high speed. Win win. Makes sense as there is so much play around the king pin, if you pick your board up by one side of the front truck you can see how much play there is that does not translate to steering, this gets rid of almost all that slop.
And the regular stuff in order of importance.
- quality bushings
- non symmetrical angles
- don’t use soft risers
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Riptide 96a pivot cups make a huge difference. I also run the Miure skate almost presicion kit and I have various bushing durometers on my trucks, I am.still carvy and turns very well but I’m still rock rolid flying over obsticles at 30+mph
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hello, how can i get some of these? i can see my TB trucks wobble a tiny little bit pass 15mph. i think its that slop you talk about. thanks in advance.
also, i have 1\2 inch risers on evo 39. does that affect stability somehow ?
I did in the bushing setup thread, i got barrels rear and front with cupped washers and they feel so much better than stock bushings. but the little shaking like movements im talking about idk how to stop them, harder or tight bushings reduce them at expense or not being able to turn at low speeds lol. but do not eliminate them.
On the EVO 39 are you running the same front and back, bushing wise?
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yea, a bit tighter on the rear truck, im thinking the magnum boardside and barrel roadside since you confirmed chubby wont fit as well
That may not be enough to compensate for the angle differential. Can you run flat washers in front and cupped in the rear?
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yea i got 4 cupped and 4 flat so both cupped on the rear and cupped boarside on the front-flat roadside?
Try running the Sharp edge of the bushing towards the hanger both front and rear. This can eliminate a minute amount of bushing side shift before the bushing engages.
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i did, i double checked after getting into the bushings setup thread you started(very helpful btw) currently rolling with cupped washers all around
Can you tell me exactly what is in the trucks and if you have them wedged or dewedged from what the Evo makes the trucks? There should be a fairly big difference in durometer or shape to compensate for the Evo split
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1\2 inch risers plus 2 tiny risers more (forgot i had those there bc i was running 83mm wheels= no clearance) and 4 87a barrels from venom. but like i mentioned b4 i was thinking bout getting the magnums and barrels plus the 96a pivot from riptide( pivot is making ugly noises)
i think i could remove the risers entirely now that i have these big tires.
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You definitely need to create more of a differential of resistance to compensate for the large split the Evo creates, if you choose to change bushings, keep the same duro as the Venom and use a KranK 87a Canon / Magnum setup, run the Magnums in back and the Canons up front. Picture shown is 90a KranK magnums mounted in a TB 218
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