"Tico" *UPDATE*/Red Ember Bludgeon/dual Maytech 6374S 170kv/ FOCBOX/20-60 PSYCHO 6SHOOTERS/ 12s5p bypass 30q/psycho mounts and enclosure

Dude. FU*K YA it cooks good!!! (Lol) At this point I am Officially jealous. Keep up the good work, but hurry up, I’m dying to see it complete

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looking very good

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It looks like I could fit a full length of myself between those motors (I was in the pool). @psychotiller , what’s the inside dimension of this mount vs your press fit again? For those of us with derp-related memory issues? And who are obsessed with knowledge of your SZ mount options…?

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I see you made a spot welder out of car battery, why dont you make a step by step thread on how you built it, many of us would greatly appreciate it.

I will measure it in a bit, still waking up

I didn’t build it by any means, but it is awesome and reasonably priced.

Their guide is all ya need.

Or you could go this route:

I haven’t used this one, but it seems everyone loves it.

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So this is what I am working with electronics wise

sealing this is weird. The phase wires should be long enough especially taking into consideration the length of the focbox phase wires.

It is the sensor wire length that is a little iffy. I am thinking about extending that out a bit, but I only have 20ga silicone and that seems a bit overkill for each sensor wire when I will only ad like 40mm or so… ugh. Decisions.

And that tail on the back end of the enclosure to hide the wire entry is a bit funny. If it wasn’t there I would just do phase wire panel mounts amd seal them, but with the little tail, I am not sure.

I am putting all my components in the enclosure, so it would be nice to have a little more length to work with so it is not too terrible a pain in the ass to get the enclosure on and off with everything hooked up.

Little details I didn’t think about until now.

Also, the tail leaves me wondering the best way to seal the enclosure , while making removing everything reasonably simple and not “siliconed in” for water ingress.

Tough decisions.

Suggestions ?

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Uugh, sensor wires chap my ass. Extending them is a tedious process. You can get 6 pin wires on Amazon for cheap, but soldering the teeny wires together sucks. I cut them to different lengths, to avoid them shorting, and minimize the bulk that heat shrink adds. Then i use ptf braided tubing for strength and appearance, but it adds a whole new level of ass-pain to do it this way. Then if the wires aren’t the exact same length, they won’t fit in the connector. Gotta do what you gotta do tho.

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Its painful because I need next to nothing.

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I have a bunch of the small wire used in them if you need it. I can ship them out tomorrow

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That would be amazing, thank you @JLabs!

Let me know how much to send you for shipping

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@Deckoz @mmaner

So I siliconed in my battery, have my belts in, life is good. Just need to extend sensor wires and seal and such.

Then I plug my charger into the port on the board, and nothing?!?! Fuck!

So finally discovered the culprit. I was right about the flux. All of that time I had an intermittent continuity on my negative charge port. Thats why it was hard to ID the issue.

“Damn” I thought. @deckoz was right I need yo reflow that bullet. But still no continuity, and I knew I flowed that well the first time, but hey.

It was the damn little bullet. When I soldered it a little extra flux went into the male tip… couldn’t see it, but it caused intermittent connection.

I replaced it and it’s all good. Sweet.

I think it was this the whole time and when it qas working before it was just intermittent, but I didn’t realize it.

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Haha nice man. I figured it was one of them needing reflowed, but also figured it could have been the bms stuck in fault mode. Glad you got it sorted man

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Your one hell of a hard charger and this is an awesome build for your first board! Can’t wait to see final pics.

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@Deckoz @mmaner

So I am full charging the battery, and my cheap Drok battery indicator reads 100% but the charger was still going. I checked the voltage and it was like 49.8v. I figure that is just in the window of error or something for the Drok (it is the small one that only has percentage, not volts)

I plugged the charger back in and it kept chugging, but the brick still didn’t go green after another 30min or so. Fan still going, still charging.

I checked the voltage and it is at 50.4/50.5 Once again, range for error on my cheaper multimeter quite poasibly.

I am nervous to leave it plugged in until it goes green (if it will?).

The charger puts out 50.7 output with no load.

Brad, is this why you recommend fine tuning the pots in the charger?

This all might be normal behavior, but want to ask.

Thoughts?

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i had something similar on my battery build also… also hovered around the ~50v. but closer to 49.7

Oh it goes past that. It is reading 50.4. Just the brick on the charger isn’t green yet. Shit, for all I know, it could have turned green 5 minutes after I unplugged it (if I kept it plugged in)

Just want to make sure this is all normal.

I’ve had the same thing, I usually just leave it plugged in. Typically its a balance issue and the reading is within the margin of error. Off that your charger goes to 50.7 though, that’s a little concerning. Whats the amps on it?

4 amp

10 char.

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Hmmm, I would let it go another 30 mins and see what happens. Can you get to the balance leads and check the voltage on the individual groups?

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