Hello ，is that on the V3 already .
Landwheel:
Re wire damage at motor entry point…
I have one more observation that is potentially relevant to hall sensor failure. Based on observing V2 drives, I feel that the wires need more slack or that perhaps the wires should not be routed through the center of the truck. I notice that the V2 motors that failed appear to have wires that have been pulled partially out of the motor. Specifically, insulation is pulled away exposing bare wire where the wires turn 90 degrees to enter the motor. Also, I can observe the wires pull away from the motor when the skateboard is up side down and when I compress the trucks fully to the left and to the right. More slack might work. Routing directly to the housing without going through the center of the trucks might work. Embedding the wires in a block of plastic or rubber where it threads into the motor is another potential solution.
I recommend you take an especially close look at this as a potential cause of wire damage. I notice that your videos of product testing are “static”. You are testing the drive against blocks of styrofoam and bashing it against the ground. You need a heavy rider taking the drive through deep turns in order to subject the drive and wiring to the real life stresses that your customers are applying to the drives. Failures in the lab are good. It prevents failures after the products are shipped.
And last comment for today. I saw the diameter tolerance test that appeared in your video. Keep in mind that it was not all wheels that were out of round. Most were in-round. The odd one was out of round. It means that only one or two mold cavities are out of round. You need to test a wheel from each and every cavity of each and every mold.
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You are an addict. Time to invest in a garage wall organizer.
https://www.costco.com/Duracabinet-15-piece-Wall-mounted-Tool-Organizer.product.100138643.html
Got one for tools. I need homelessness to fix the problem
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tried my “wheel of shame” and it broke after about 15 min first it worked ok. went 30km/h on slow mode. same speed on fast mode (29km/h) ok, not a big deal. the only thing was, brakes were too weak. after about 5k on perfect asphalt, flat, 0 degree incline it started to lose connection. (short time, but noticeable)
then it worked ok for about 5 min. and after it shut off constantly and was too weak to power the board at all.
so sad that they didn’t fix the problems. now it is really annoying.
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Landwheel, is there a V4 in the works? Also, do you have some sort of adapter that would allow the use of the batteries from the previous versions?
Saw a huge spark when I put my battery in this weekend!! I do push the power button a few time prior to putting the battery on.
I see that there is a bit of banter on what “goo” to put on the terminals to prevent spark. So which is it? anyone else tried these workarounds?
Realistically what is the permanent improvement V4 should have to resolve this dangerous connector. I assume not removing the battery and adding in a port on the drive to charge directly would be a good idea? @Landwheel It looks like V3 is doomed to fail sooner or later.
Hi @bbq870, First of all, we are sorry for the problem. The reason of losing connection is that the crystal oscillator on remote receiver is not perfect in SMT process, it will be loose when the drive vibrated terribly. We have started to solve it, There are two solution ways: 1.The receiver directly built into the controller to reduce the failure rate. 2. To thicken the thickness of the receiver, and add more tin when we solder the components, make it more firm. If you have any questions, you can contact our sales. We will help you to solve the problem. Thank you
Hi mike, Thanks for you feedbacks. The sparking phenomenon is due to the fact that there are two large capacitors on the control panel, when the battery contacts terminals, the capacitors on control panel will be charged instantly. This is a normal physical situation, we also looking ways to improve it. As the contactors are gold-plated, and contact way is changed to three-points connection. It won’t lead to short-circuit when you riding. V3 contact is safe.
it was on smooth flat surface. no vibration. now the motors have no power anymore, were slower and slower and now stopped
Mike:
My experience with the V2 is that dielectric grease stopped both the initial spark when inserting the battery and the arcing damage to the contacts when driving over rough surfaces. Conductive silicone grease should never be used where arcing is a possibility. See my previous post on this topic for Wikipedia links that state the same information. Also, arching is more likely if you push the power button to drain the capacitor before inserting the battery. The arching is caused by the capacitors drawing power to charge up. If the capacitors are already full, they will draw less current when the battery is inserted.
Ahhh I must’ve misread. I thought it was recommended that I push the power button BEFORE inserting the battery. that explains what looked like a one inch spark I experienced. I will look into that messy goo you speak off
Hey Pantologist:
Looking at the schematic that you posted, I’m looking at the 6 pin power/comm connector. Can you advise me on which pins to use to connect an LED power switch? I’m guessing red and green are for the momentary switch and yellow and white are for the LED light. I could be wrong though. Do you know which pins are for power up and which pins are for the power indicator light?
Landwheel:
You are working on the problem of preventing damage to the motor wires. That’s good.
I notice that there is one very important issue that several posters have commented on. Many have commented that the Landwheel e-brakes are very weak at higer speeds, but that the brakes lock and throw the rider off the board about 10 feet before the rider expects the board to stop. These complaints are accurate. As one of the posters who owns a boosted board, I can tell you that the boosted boards have much safer brakes. They are stronger from high speed and they don’t lock as the board slows down. The braking force is very proportional to the input on the remote. I think the fundamental difference is that boosted board is trying to drive the motors in reverse to accomplish deceleration. Land wheel is trying to magnetically lock the rotating stator arms to the fixed magnets. This works poorly at higher speeds (poor brakes) and results in locking at low speeds. If Landwheel is potentially faster than boosted board (for some riders) it needs better brakes. It is also not acceptable that heavy riders will not be able to stop effectively from high speeds. I’m recommending that you look at using reverse power to for braking under most conditions. I think battery overcharge condition is the only situation where the magnetic lock approach makes sense. I’m operating on the assumption that reverse power forces some electrical charge back into the batteries and that the magnetic lock does not. I think the magnetic lock should only be used an an emergency brake when the battery is at or near overcharge.
Finally, I’d recommend that the slider on the remote allow for the board to stop and then continue into reversing. Its a strong safety feature at an intersection. If you overshoot an intersection, then backing away from it quickly is very important. Its one of the things that I really love about my boosted board and OneWheel.
I’m wondering if some other posters can back me up on the importance of improving the Landwheel braking. Mike, you have a boosted board so please chime in.
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I don’t ride at high speed because I do not trust my own abilities on the streets I ride on and can’t risk any major injuries due to a young child at home, usually 17-19mph at most on any board, 22-24 a few times during short testing or really smooth road. I have noticed that the V3’s braking is more abrupt compared to the V2. I have not had the opportunity to brake while going fast (never had the emergency need to do so)
I actually like the drag from belt drives because I can essentially coast to a easier stop as long as it’s anticipated. One thing I do is stop, stay on my board and keep the toggle pulled back to apply brakes so I remain stopped if I’m talking to someone and whatnot. THAT is one thing I hate about the Boosted board because the second it comes to a full stop, it reverses, there needs to be a pause where after it stops, it needs to be reset to zero before it goes in reverse.
Mike: I think 19 MPH is fast enough to want strong brakes/rapid braking. But your comments are interesting. I guess everyone has their own braking preferences. For me, the boosted board brakes are ideal. I can go from top speed, down to a stop in a couple heart beats. I feel glued to the board when I stop. The board never stops faster than me. Instant reverse is something I like and I don’t find myself accidentally reversing at the end of a stop.
During the summer, I ride the boosted board and onewheel at top speed every day. I use the boards to run my dog and to go boarding beside my 13 year old son. My son and I ride and stop the same. But I guess other riders are going to have their own distinct needs and preferences.
What would be cool is if the LandWheel was running the Benjamin Vedder open source software and if the owner could configure the VESC to brake according to their own preferences. Benjamin’s software lets you choose between “Ebrake” and “Duty Cycle”. I thinks that’s the difference between the way that brakes are applied in Landwheel vs. Boosted Board.
You commented that the boosted board should lock stationary before heading in to reverse. Personally, I have no complaints about immediately going into reverse. Even still, you have a neat idea. I agree that when stopped on an incline, a stationary lock feature would be handy.
Landwheel has the stationary lock. But more than one poster has commented that the brakes are too weak at faster speeds.
One personal suggestion I have for you is to practice rapid deceleration on the boosted board repeatedly until you are fully comfortable with a full tilt stop. Its an important skill to master when there is no emergency–so that you can use it when there is an emergency.
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@Landwheel pls. tell Eileen, I mesaged her days ago on Wechat.
I need an answer before I leave Germany on thursday
thx
I have been away so haven’t had much of a chance to test V3 much more. Has anyone’s V3 broken yet? and @Landwheel will there be a V4? If so, when?
I am waiting for V5