The LANDWHEEL electric hub drive

Cobblestone is taking it a bit too far…Are you trying to kill the tester?

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I have only riden mine three times so far but i have done some pretty tough “real world” testing and so far so good. I have riden on the road but also done quite a lot on the pavement (the majority of which was far from smooth) with many cracks, also short steep hills. I also found going back over a steep hill to be quite good, just needed a little push start at the beginning.

Ok, maybe interlocking stone.

Re: Sensor wire mix-up

I think Landwheel is making/subcontracting their own ESC. So it’s not known if they are intending to follow the standards set by Benjamin Vedder. The V2 Landwheel was one wire short on the sensors which caused me to wonder if this missing wire was related to the near 100% failure rate of V2 landwheels.

But, I guess that’s all old information. Can someone with a broken V3 post a picture of the complete V3 circuit board. Someone posted a partial and it looked like there were 6 sensor wires but it was not clear.

I’m really just curious if there are now 6 sensor wires.

Mbkahn:

That’s encouraging. When did they ship it to you and how much do you weigh?

pk

Update…

I tried the connection described below. It was unsuccessful. The remote activated both sets of drives but the speed was unstable. The power to the wheels cycled on and off. Then when I undid the connections, the receiver was no longer able to connect to the remote. So looks like I fried one receiver. I cut the power to the second receiver before the experiment so it was unharmed. Given that the experiment failed with the V2 – obviously, its not worth risking with a V3.

End of update…

So I’m trying to network two landwheel V2 Drives together to work with a single remote. I want to try this with the V2’s because they are in my mind “disposable” if I fry something. I’d like to master the skill before my V3’s arrive.

I’ve read up on other threads that you can network two ESC’s together by patching one receiver to two boards. Normally receivers have 3 wires. You patch two of the wires to both boards but you patch the center wire to only one of the boards because the center wire is the power to the receiver. You don’t want to double the power to the receiver.

Here is a link to where I gathered this info.

In the link above, Nik provides a picture illustrating the center wire cut on one of the boards --resulting in 5 wires total connected to the 3 ESC leads.

The LandWheel V2 has 5 wires because its already connected to two ESC’s. I figure if I identify the one that has power, the the remaining 4 are the ones that I patch over to the second board.

I’ve rigged up a Landwheel drive so that it gets power externally. This allows me to access the circuit board while the drive is powered up. Using a DC voltage meter, I find the following voltages:

  1. 28v (pin cosest to the front of the box, furthest from the wheels)
  2. 0.8v
  3. 0.5v
  4. 1.6v
  5. 3.3v

So I’m thinking it’s pretty obvious that the first pin is the power and that if I patch over the other four wires to the corresponding locations on the second drive, that I will have a good chance of networking two drives to one remote.

Before I proceed, is there anyone who knows more than me on this topic that might like to offer advice or experience?

Landwheel:

Regarding the testing and hall sensor wire damage problem:

I have some disassembled Landwheel V2 drives, trucks and motors sitting on my workbench. I just realized something very surprising.

There is no metal key to prevent the motor from rotating on the shaft. If the motor rotates on the shaft, then this would squeeze, pull, or sheer the wires. The only safeguard against the motor rotating on the shaft is the compression of the axle nut. I’m not sure that’s enough. In fact, I’m pretty sure it is not enough.

I’m thinking this leaves the wires very vulnerable to sheer forces, impacts and other stresses. Has the design changed for V3? Is there a new design that mechanically locks the motor to a fixed position on the shaft?

Take a look at these two hub motors that I spotted on-line.

Notice one has a square recess that locks the motor from rotating on the shaft. The other has a “flat detail” that also prevents rotation.

I have one more observation that I feel is very relevant. I just now took apart one of my Broken V2 Drives that I had never disassembled before. Both Axle nuts were only finger tight. Literally “finger tight”. I removed them with a deep socket and my fingers – no wrench. If the intention was a friction fit, then I doubt the nut was tightened enough to support that.

Can you comment on the V3 motor design and if it has been changed to have a mechanical interlock that would prevent rotation on the axle shaft?

Kind Regards,

pk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfVh3Ot81HA

The PU wheels improvement: We have solved the problem of coaxial of the wheels

And we have controled the outside in diameter ± 0.05mm

About February 13th

and about 75kg

Michael

I have done some more good testing in some difficult conditions. I even rode on a path and didn’t realise that there were lots of small rocks on it. The skateboard did very well!

I some questions/queries for you guys, including @Landwheel

  • I am no pro skateboarder so not sure if it is just me, but does anyone find the skateboard a little unsteady at high speeds?
  • What would happen if I road it in the rain? I am also nervous to break at high speeds as it is so sudden. Anyone else find this?

Braking is very abrupt, just a cheap ESC not much you can do about that other than replace with VESC yourself. In addition to that i’ve had many remote cutouts and even acceleration after i released from the throttle…scary stuff. and for me i’m still getting the Hall Sensor issue on one of the two replacement V3 units sent back to me.

how fast was “high speed”? tighter trucks would help with stability. Carving instead of doing straight away will also help. work on braking with your foot, it’s a good thing to know in case anything goes wrong.

Having opened up the V2 and just looking at the V3 drive housing and battery connectors I would not ride it in the rain. Although they advertised the unit to be IP54 (Dust and Splash resistant I think) There are no rubber seals anywhere that would prevent water from getting in. The motor might be splash resistant hence the IP rating?

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FYI, in case any one was waiting to see if networking two V2 drives together would work… it did not, and I fried one receiver. See original post for details.

was not “that” fast

hello Landwheel! that´s a question to you!

Hello everyone. In case of the motor cables cracked when it’s in high speed,we opened a locating solt in the truck to fix the cables.In addition,there is bolt with high-stength metals between the truck and motor.

Landwheel:

Re: Motor improvements & indexing slots…

Nice improvement. Is that on the V3’s that shipped already? Or is this for the next shipment? pk