Very interested in your comparison of Landwheel to boosted board. Are you comparing the LW V2 or LW V3?
I also have a boosted board (which by the way is 44.4 volts). A light rider like my son (100 pounds) could out accelerate the boosted board if I was on the boosted board as a 210 pound rider. However, the landwheel advantage disappeared if his friend rode the land wheel. His friend is about 120 pounds. As for my 210 pound weight, as I mentioned in an earlier post, the V2 Landwheels just fry immediately when I try to ride them.
For fun, I tried wiring up the land wheel base unit to two 6355 260 KV motors. For my son, the board takes off like a rocket. Thatās just an indoor test because the roads are covered with snow and salt. I took the hybrid 6355-Land wheel to a parking garage. There was no problem frying motors but I was running the motors with sensors disconnected. However, the acceleration and top speed were poor compared to boosted board. I suppose thatās not surprising given that one is running on 44.4 volts vs 24 volts.
If you donāt mind sharing, I am curious how heavy of a rider you are. Have you tested the V3 36 volt LW. Do you think 36 volts is enough or do you think that LW really needs to look at a 44 volt or 12s configuration in order to satisfy heavier riders. Iām wondering if they should consider having a 36 volt model for light riders and an auxiliary battery that heavier riders could purchase to boost the system up to 44 volts or higher. Either a replacement battery or a secondary battery that installs just in front of the LW and plugs in to the LW base. Those are my ideas.
Hi guys v2 and v3 when your board is trucks up and you accelerate . The board works but if I grab one wheel it start scratching and the wheel stops . The drive still drives but somewhat close to a differential it seems to disengage this wheel ā¦ is still has a bit of power ( pinching 2 fingers should hold it ) but it makes an awfull noise and I wonder wat breaking force will do to the wheels . I know there is no weight on te board when tested this . But mine does not function with me on it I have a version 3 with the beeping alarm problem . Could the sound be a hall sensor that is scratching?
As mentioned in my earlier post, I tested three broken land wheels and found that in each case the motor that sits below the landwheel battery logo was broken. Some made a loud noise when turned by hand. Others did not make a loud noise but when activating the remote wheels up, one the undamaged motor would turn and the damaged motor would not. Wheels down, the Land wheel would power down within seconds of using the remote.
A replacement motor might correct the problem assuming the motor that is broken has not damaged one side of the circuit board. If you want to have a bit of fun while you wait for a replacement LW then I believe you might be able to convert the landwheel into a single wheel drive board. I tested this wheels up. I did not test it wheels down so I cannot be certain if this would work.
If you want to try this you would have to remove the panel below the battery and you would have to disconnect the three wires that are connected to the broken wheel. All wires should be taped or shrink wrapped to prevent a short circuit If the broken motor is on the right, then you need to disconnect the wires that are on the left. In other words, the wires cross over like the human brain. Left is controlled by right and vice versa.
you should also disconnect the 5-wire sensor connector. Just like the three wires that power the motor, the sensor wires cross over to the opposite side of the circuit board
The broken motor can be left in place or you could remove it and replace it with a regular long board wheel. Alternativley, remount mount one of the unpowered Land wheel wheels from the front trucks to replace the broken motor. Then mount a complete set of trucks from a different manufacturer on the front. When you reassemble the drive, donāt over tighten the Allen nuts that hold the electronics cover in place. They only need to be gently turned until until flush, donāt tighten beyond that. If you do the cover will crack.
If you do decide to operate the land wheel as a single motor drive (which I have never done), then it would probably be best to push start to to a good speed before engaging the remote. Also, keep in mind that your brakes will be particularly weak.
Iām curious. How heavy of a rider are you. Iām taking a poll to see if rider weight is related to the motor failure.
in fact if I quickened revving the engines try hard and seem to scratch on something. If I push it with a couple of pushing and then accelerated the engines start spinning well
This for v3 and I weigh only 74kg
I donāt have a V3 and I have not been able to take the V2 motors apart to look on the inside. The allen screws have stripped when I try to remove them. However, it is a brushless motor so in theory, the only thing that would make a scraping sound would be sensor wires with the insulation melted off. In that case you would need a new motor.
Running without sensors, brushless motors tend to have much less torque ā especially starting from a stop. So I would guess that your sensor wires are melted and that you can run sensorless if you push start. However, with the sensor wires melted, you risk damaging the sensor portion of the circuit board. I would ask for a replacement motor if they will ship you one. Otherwise, you could try removing one motor a per my previous post. Or send Landwheel a video of the malfunctioning motor and wait for a replacement unit when they fix the problems.
At 167 pounds, you are half way between my son (100 pounds) who has no problems with the Landwheel and me (210 pounds. For me, the V2 Landwheel motor fails within seconds. The failure is always on the same side.
Landwheel posted that the problem is improperly assembled motors that cause the sensor wired to fray and short circuit. I have an alternate theory but no proof. I suspect that under heavy acceleration load a strong current runs through the sensor wires and melts off the insulation. If my theory is correct, the circuit board is causing the motors to fail. If the Landwheel analysis is correct, the failures originate in the motors.
If they can fix this problem then they will be on the way to having a reliable product. I think we all wish them success.
I weight roughly the same as you around 205-210. Weather and life with a 2 year old makes it really hard to ride recently (she either wants to get on which result is slow rides up and down the driveway or she wants me to blow bubbles and whatnot)
I had two V2s, both lasted about 1-2 miles, I think the battery connections went bad after the sparking, then road vibration disconnects it and turns the boards off. I now have the V3, they definitely need larger batteries to accommodate heavier loads. Many people use these not just for fun, but as an alternative form of transportation, so carrying a heavy backpack with books, laptops, groceries should be part of the equation.
I NEVER start from a stand still, and I usually do gradual acceleration. Belt drive has more torque, so when you āpunch itā it really feels like you are moving.
I have a second LW V3 that I havenāt opened, my colleague decided not to but it after the V2ās epic failure, he rather have something proven, canāt blame himā¦I wish thereās a way to pair two receivers with one remote, instant 4WD, that would help right?
When weather and time permits. I plan to ride my usual route which would be a 10 mile round trip, will likely take an Uber home since only my DIY is the only one that can make that trip and still have 70% battery. Maybe I wonāt even make a mile? Iām not sure what performance changes they made with V3, but Iām 80% sure I can kill this thing
You donāt really need to pair the remotes. Its not rocket science to hold one remote in each hand. If you have two 32 Volt V3ās then Iād go ahead and put those on one skateboard. I think it will lower your odds of frying the V3ās before LW sends out its next batch of replacements. Another option you might have is to add the V3 to the front of your DIY board.
The picture that I sent of the Hybrid 6355/Landwheel actually has a second conventional Land wheel mounted on the front. I use the 6355ās to get up to speed and then push on the second remote to activate the conventional landwheel V2.
Iāve only done two passes in a parking garage because itās freezing cold out. Even with two 24 volt drives connected to one board, the acceleration is still well below boosted board (for me as a 210 pound rider).
Iām afraid to take more test runs for fear of blowing the V2 Drive motor(s). Iāll probably reserve it for my son for the summer. For him, the 4WD skateboard would be a 35 MPH rocket. I have a second boosted board on order so Iām not sure if he will ride the 4WD skateboard much. The 4WD unit weighs a tonne. He can barely pick it up.
I think one of the problems with my 6355 set-up is that I had to run the motors without sensors. The sensors on the Landwheel circuit board had the same connector but a different number of wires and different order of wire colors.
Without sensors, the brushless motors run with about half the torque especially from the start. With sensors, the ECS knows how to both pull and push against the magnets. Without the sensor, I think the ESC only knows how to pull the stator arms towards the next magnet.
Iām thinking of purchasing a new ESC to drive the 6355 motors. Running those motors with sensors, the acceleration might be pretty good just as a 2WD skateboard. However, Iām still concerned that the 24 volt battery will fall short. I could wire two 24 volt batteries in parallel to double the amps. But Iām afraid that If I wired them in series for 48 volts, that I would blow the on-board charge controller that reside within the batteries.
So just to confirm, your V3 is still working, its just does not have the power to get you 210 pounds up to speed at a satisfying pace, Correct? Also, you always push start. You never use the remote from a stand still? Correct?
Thank you for you following this thread and paying attention to our issues. Iām sure I speak for all of us when I say I really hope Landwheel is a big success.
the thing with LW, Onan and Mellow, is that they are all just dual hub with everything in one unit. saying they are a rip off is like saying cars copy each other because they have a steering wheel and wheels. Onan definitely copied Mellow. LW is more like inspired by Mellow.
I donāt see a huge problem here (not that Iām an attorney). If Mellow delivers on their promised quality, they will be the luxury version. LW is a Hondaā¦sadly at the moment, they are the lowest model of Honda with recalls
So I have both a V1 and V2 drive, and both have obviously shit the bed. If the motors are the issue but the rest is functional, any ideas on what replacement motors would work as a replacement?
I really want to turn one of the older models into a 1 wheel drive for my 8yr old grom. Such a waste to let them collect dust.
Anyone had more problems with V3? Since it finally stopped raining I would love to take it out to see what sheās made of tomorrow but work calls and Iāll be out of town till early next week. Fingers crossed that I can get at least a few miles out of this one. On the plus side, the personal one on one customer service is amazing and rare. That and it has a cool box and a posterā¦
I received my v3 yesterday and rode it twice. Once for about 5-7min and once for 15min all in fast mode.
So far so good, I weigh 170 pounds and the board is really fast for me, definitely noisier than the previous 2 versions, although the noise goes away near full speed. I reached 21mph easily. Iām taking it easy for now though, slowly throttling up, I noticed that once you reach full throttle after about 2 seconds the board feels like it goes up a gear with more torque and more speed.
I have an Onan X1 (1st gen) so Iām used to kick the board first before giving it some gas, I think everyone should do this, itās better for range and components fatigue, if you donāt know how to kick then you shouldnāt this thing at all.
I tested both my batteries, one thing I noticed is that half the time I load them onto the drive thereās a little spark. The drive is a little thicker because the battery is thicker. One last thing, the remoteās battery seems to still be crapā¦
Rhino in flight:
It will be tricky to find a replacement hub motor. The Land wheel sensor connection may be non-standard. They are different from torque boards anyway. Iām not sure if any hub motors run sensor less. The landwheel motors donāt run without sensors. Could be the same for others. As per my post on the 6355 hybrid landwheel, its possible but lots lots of work and you have to run sensorless unless you also want to replace the ECS. Also, its my theory that the LW circuit board is responsible for melting down the sensor wires in the motor. So if Iām right then any replacement motor could melt down if you do connect the sensor circuit. Try the single wheel drive solution first. Itās free and only an hour of work. I provided instructions in a previous post.
There seems to be some capacitance property in the circuitry after the battery is removed which causes an arc when reinstalled. Pressing power button after removing battery helps
It is true that the capacitors retain a charge after the battery is removed and that you can discharge the circuit by pushing the power button after the battery is removed. As you re-install the batteries, the capacitors will draw current and recharge. Iām pretty sure that is the source of your arching. If you want to stop the arcing, apply di-electric grease. You probably know that arching happens when voltage jumps across an air gap. Di-electric grease eliminated the air gap. It will also prevent arching as you ride and hit bumps in the road.
You have a broken V3. Curious if you always kick started the board to get started or if you used the remote from a stand still. Did you do any up hill riding?
