Now we have to wait and test again tomorrow hoping that you prune forum friends try your landwheel
you say itâs powerful. I wonder how powerful as I forget what batteries it has but they are li-ion and few. The root of my wondering is what amps does the esc allow. Is it pulling more amps than what the cells are rated for? Maybe a simple speed test against a diy board that has a watt meter. Generally people need to put a lot of li-ion cells in parallel and also series to reduce the amp draw on individual cells. Maybe it has magic in the board.
I remember it as, everything powered off. hold the remote power button until the light blinks. push and release driveâs power button. then itâs paired.
my single 6374 and Boosted 2.0 FEELS much more âpowerfulâ. no watt meter
the old one was â25.2v 80.6Wh 3200mAhâ, the V3 is â36v 115Wh 3200mahâ. no idea how itâs wired.
Where do you sell that deck?
The deck in those landwheel pics? which the green front? ⌠thatâs actually my i-wonder SK-A3 electric board that i pulled the parts off to test the landwheel on it
funny how they apparently use an XT60 plug but only use 14AWG (or even smaller) wires for battery and motor currents.
This thing will burn 
It looks like it says 14AWG. What is your recommendation? should we solder in something thicker? or would going slower with no hills be fine?
It is a hub motor which usually means you need higher battery currents because you canât compensate with gearing. It can all be fine as long as you donât push the boardâs limits too hard (like long hills at full speed). The cables will get warmer compared to thicker ones though.
So in a nutshell what is the issue with the newest version? Still raining here (Bay area, CA) so havenât done a decent test. But if this one is liable to lock up on me again I prefer to see it coming. Cool looking box though!
I just got mine today and yet to ride it. I think it is the best branding and packaging I have seen from a small Chinese company before.
Like @rhinoinflight I am a little confused as to what the problems are. I am not interested or even able to do a DIY one and am mostly interested in selling these. So as long as they actually work and donât break like the last two ones then that would be good! Has anyones actually broken yet?
Thank you. I donât seem to be able to buy deck only.
Having taken apart the broken drives and experimented on them, I think I can answer a number of the questions that have been asked so far in this forum.
Several have complained that the reverse switch on the remote is backwards. I think that the position of the switch is supposed to indicate where the wheels are positioned. So the backward position of the remote means the wheels are on the rear of the skateboard. If you think that the position of the switch is forward/reverse, then you will feel that the switch is backwards. To me it seems backwards as a forward/reverse switch. But to the people who designed it, I think they feel the switch is correct because the switch shows where the drive wheels are located.
Anyway, if you want to make the reverse switch function the opposite way then there are two easy ways to do this. The simplest is to flip the wheels on to opposite sides. Just disassemble the trucks and bushings, then remove both wheels from the axle and reverse them. Now both motors will push in the opposite direction as they did before the modification. In order to do this you will need to completely disassemble the trucks and remove the trucks from the base. That is the only way to get enough slack in the wires to be able to remove the motor from the axle.
The second way to change direction is to remove the plastic plate that covers the electronics and switch the motor wires from the left side to the right side and vice versa. This means disconnecting the connectors for the three large gauge wires from the left and swapping them to the corresponding color connector on the right. Be careful not to mix colors. As I recall, blue goes to blue, red goes to yellow and black goes to green. Something like that. It also means swapping the five wire speed sensor connectors. This is much harder because the wheel speed sensor connectors are wrapped up in heat shrink and the white connector inside the heat shrink is glued. It needs to be cut apart, re-glued and re-shrink wrapped. Therefore, reversing the wheels is the much easier and much more fool proof method.
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Hello guys, this is Jason from Landwheel team. Firstly, weâd like to express our appreciation for your longtime support and continuously trust. We have been following your suggestions and working hard to improve our Landwheel products. I will be on behalf of Landwheel to communicate with you guys from now on. If you have any questions, please leave us message here.
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now your explanation that the switch indicates the LOCATION of the drive system can make sense. Not too logical since flipping the switch after installation doesnât mean the drive is now located in the other direction, but acceptable as an answer!
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Since we focus on product before and the Spring Festival holiday, we didnât reply your questions on time, I read many questions here now, below are answers for your reference: 1). The remote direction switch: we adopted your suggestions, and will repair this bug in the subsequent mass production. 2) The PU wheels are non-circular: the gap of PU wheel metallic in-wall and the motor wall is a little large, resulting in misalignment. We are making efforts to adjust the gap from 0.12mm to 0.05mm. Btw, our supplier didnât provide enough PU wheels timely before our Spring Festival, the spare PU wheels will be shipped later . (3) A part of the skateboards are not be able to use when itâs loaded: some employees do not carefully when they assembled the motor, which lead to the truck squeeze the Hall line. The Hall line problems will cause the system alarm, so the drive can not work. We will pay much attention on the production process to ensure that and ensure there is no problem in mass production.
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Few people think that we copy Mellow, Mellow is a pioneer in e-skateboard drive indeed, but our skateboard drive and motors are designed and developed by ourselves. Landwheel adhere to independent innovation, no copying. Our product has China, US, European patent now. Although there are still some problems need to be resolved, but we believe that we will succeed with your participation and supports, we will eventually make the products that everyone satisfied. We are on the way.
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Thank you for write in here.
Certainly there is still a small problem, but I like this product.
Good luck.
@Landwheel great to see you guys active on the forum . I am u fortunately the owner of ondie of the drives thatâs has the hall sensor problem dou you guys have any solutions yet
Hi "Landwheel::
I was interested to hear your discussion of the Hall sensor problem. I was doing some testing on three of my broken landwheel V2 drives. I made the following observations:
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All three had one malfunctioning motor. The windings had electrical continuity so I assumed that the fault was with either a controller that is internal to the motor or with the hall sensor.
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If I removed the broken motor, the landwheel would no longer âsystem errorâ and the remaining wheel would function with the remote. I was able to fix one of the units by scavenging a working motor from one of the three broken drives.
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Another unit could not be fixed on one side because the Circuit Board was damaged. It could not power a known-to-be-functioning land wheel motor but it could power a sensorless motor from another manufacturer. This tells me that the broken motor damaged the speed sensor circuitry on one side of the circuit board.
So all three of these observations are consistent with your explanation that the Hall sensor circuit is failing or short circuiting in the hub motors.
However, I am not 100% certain that you have identified the cause. I bought 6 land wheels. They seemed to work fine for my 100 pound son. However, as soon as I tried to ride one of the boards, they board broke instantly. Five out of six broke within seconds of me trying to ride it. I weigh 210 pounds. Each of the broken boards had the same problem. One motor functioned. The other did not. It was always the motor that sits below the land wheel logo on the battery. Its the same side of the board that I tend to put more weight because thatâs where my heels go.
The fact that the motors all failed on the same side could just be a coincidence.
However, I donât think the rider weight is a coincidences. If I was the first to ride a board, it failed instantly. If my son was the first to ride the board, it would function until I tried it â and then it would break instantly.
So I would not be too quick to blame the problem on people assembling the motors incorrectly. As far as I can tell the failures are related to the weight of the rider. It could be the weight of the rider crushing the wires (less likely). It might also be an overload when the motors are trying to accelerate from a stand still. If I were to guess, I would more strongly suspect that the Hall sensor is damaged when a heavy rider attempts to accelerate. It may in fact be the ESC that is not effective at accelerating a heavy load. The ESC may be sending a strong current through the small guage sensor circuit wires. A strong current through these small gauge wires may be melting the wires or the sensor. If you take apart a failed motor, you might not be able to tell the difference between a short circuit that melted the wires or a melt down caused by excessive current. I donât have a V3 yet. So all of my observations and speculation is based on the V2.
Like others in the forum, Iâm just trying to help. I am suggesting that you take a much closer look at why the wires leading to the hall sensors are failing. I also suggest you test the units with much heavier riders on much rougher roads. Mikenopolis made a similar suggestion.
One more thing. When I first received my 6 land wheels I noticed that two of the PU wheels were out of round. I measured thicknesses with a vernier caliper and sent pictures to Eileen. The difference in wall thickness was out by 2 mm. I was able to swap in spare wheels that were not out of round. So Iâm not sure if the loose wheels that you wrote about is a new problem. But at one point, it appeared that the mold for the PU wheels had at least one out of round mold cavity. For example there may be 12 cavities in a mold, at least one of those cavities appeared to be out of round. So please have you wheel manufacturer take a closer look at each mold cavity. Also, please take a vernier caliper to many wheels to measure consistency.
Thanks Paul