Nah. Just fuckin with ya. Making stickers is just another of the many random things I do. Just busted that one out in a spare few mins this arvo lol.
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Nice work man. where did you get your mood CNCed and what was cost?
@thundercookie A dude named Vince up in Oregon hooked me up. It was $500 shipped to my door. Jim at Marwood referred me to him. I had been calling around for a while and people either wouldn’t call me back or were giving me ridiculous quotes of like $1500 or more.
If anyone wants his contact info, PM me. I asked him if i could give it out and he said he was cool with me spreading the word. “I got kids to feed” i think is what he said. Don’t we all.
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Ok awesome thanks. Can you shoot me his email please? Im in Melbourne Australia. Chers bud.
Just wanted to update this thread with the progress I made this past weekend. I was able to add in the motor plugs for the rear wheels and the electronics/box area. Here’s the pictorial:
First I took some measurements and drew out the channels with a pencil after drilling the holes all the way through for the plugs. On my 6S build, i did this from the bottom side. This time I’m doing it from the top so that this beautiful wood can be preserved on the bottom while any ugliness left over from the process will be covered in paint and grip tape.
Then I got my dremel and went to work on the channels. After that was done, I epoxied the connectors into place. Last time i soldered all the connectors to their wires before placing them into the deck. That was a huge pain in the ass. This way was a lot easier. Also, one side effect of soldering the plugs after epoxying them is that it gives you a second chance to finely tune the plugs’ alignment. I was able to make the height of the plugs more even when they were hot from the solder because the melted the epoxy into a gooey state that allowed me to slide them up and down slightly before they hardened into place again. This was awesome because i couldn’t get them as even as i wanted simply by holding them for five minutes until the epoxy gelled up. Next time i’ll have to make a jig for the plugs to align them even more perfectly.
Here’s the bottom side with the plugs in place. My plan is to fabricate some right angle connectors for those posts that will be inside the enclosure. That will allow me to keep the box as low as the space cell and VESC without worrying about stressing connectors. Last time i had leads wires with plugs on the ends just coming directly out of the wood, which resulted in some ugliness as well as some inflexibility of placement for the ESC.
After the channel was good and the plugs were fastened in, i soldered in the wires (while making some minor adjustments to the plug heights) and filled the whole thing slightly over the edge with polyester resin. One day soon i’m going to get some West Systems stuff, but for now i’m trying to use up my Bondo.
Once the resin hardened into plastic i sanded it down smooth with the deck and re-applied some wood stain around the edges that got hit with the sander. After that I masked off the edges so i’d have a nice border once painted.
here’s another shot of the underside of the deck after the resin hardened but before i taped the deck.
then i painted the top. That white triangle is where my logo will go, then some polyurethane over the whole board and some clear grip tape on top.
I’ll be back to post the final pics when its done. 
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it would be a waste to use west systems epoxy for something like that anyways bro. i use it cause i need the 207 hardener that dries super clear for nice finish. but i guess you cant really use to fast of a hardener cause it will generate more heat and might affect the glue. looking sweet bro
i’ll just leave this here…
full disclosure: i totally and irreparably messed up the deck that this thread started out with by placing the box-side motor plugs way too close to where the motors would be. As gorgeous as it is, i can’t use it for an electric build lol.
so while i was lamenting that before pressing another one to start over, i decided to make a last minute shape change due to my feet telling me that the wings weren’t wide enough to rise above that sexy hump in the middle. So i made it look like a freakin’ stealth bomber. problem solved.
All that being said, this is the new Scarlet.
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I like that better then the first.
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Dude! Those press lines are amazing!
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my feet like it a lot better too
thanks! i finally have consistency in shape i’m getting from the mold, so i’m hoping to be able to use a blank to create a form for the boxes very soon.
it also helped that i added some tiny, slightly dulled nails to the center points at both ends of one half of the mold. No more guessing about where the center is. Now all i have to do is draw a line between the two divots at each end of the blank and i have an instant center line centered to the mold shape and not the veneer.
if anyone is thinking of having a wooden press mold made, i would strongly advise doing that. It takes ALL of the guesswork out of where the center is, so from popping it out of the press to lining up and taping your cutout template takes seconds instead of many minutes.
also, this one is @cmatson 's. For real this time. lol
try to ignore the washing machine. My mom always told me not to put my laundry out there for everyone to see, but i have to share my shop with the washer, so…
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Nice to someone pressing decks! Invest in a good glue spreader when you get a chance it will save a ton of time. Spend around $300, the cheap ones perform poorly in comparison.
how do these spreaders work? got a good youtube link handy? i’m always looking for ways to streamline this.
for reference, at the moment i’m using a $13 paint roller and teflon pan. cleanup is 5 minutes and i can ziplock the roller for reuse up to a few days later to save glue. charging a roller takes almost as much glue as one side of veneer. a gallon of tightbond III is $27, so i try to be scroogey with it.
is a good spreader more efficient with the glue? how’s the cleanup? i can only press one at a time right now with a press time of about 6 hours before pulling out the blank and letting it cure over night before cutting, so glueing time isn’t really a bottleneck for me at the moment. I can stack veneer and have it in the press inside of 15 minutes.
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@longhairedboy you look so happy in the video! it’s awesome! I really hope you can do this full time one day… Making electric skateboards is a form of medication… it’s exhilarating…exciting… fulfilling… I bet you don’t smile like a small baby in a candy store when you at your day job!
new t-shirt slogan works sux build board’s be happy
Now let me talk about the deck… those line on the road side are so sweet… its a very unique and aggressive shape, modern & retro styling combined into one which is truly amazing in terms of design.
I can’t wait to see some trucks on it, also how stiff is this bad boy?.. feed me more of this wizardry
I’ve said it before & ill say it again, self build eboards are the future of skateboarding…
@onloop me too! i’m cough happy at my cough day job of course but yes i would love to do this full time. nothing would make me happier!
its pretty stiff despite being only 7 ply because of that sweeet w-dome profile. I have to bounce up and down pretty hard to get it to flex, and i’m pretty sure the flex points are not in the center of the deck but near the trucks. The center is where the dome is. It starts behind the front trucks and ends just in front of the rear trucks where it flattens out into the upward tail slope.
She’s 40" long with a wheelbase just over 26.5". Wired, filled, and stained she’s right at 5 pounds 11 ounces (i just put her on a postage scale). i’m not sure where that puts it in relation to other boards. I haven’t stripped my Gravity down to weigh the deck but it seems within the same ballpark.
I haven’t done any testing for wheel bite though.I figure the half inch risers i typically use on electrics will keep that down to a non-issue, but i am investigating some methods for creating wheel wells.
the peaks of the w-dome on the belly side are almost exactly the width of a space cell, and when it lays across the gap there’s enough room for some 12 gauge battery wires to travel down between the deck and the board so there are options for orienting the pack. you could also of course unpack some lipo prismatics or 18650s and run them down that wide gutter and keep your box even slimmer.
i have plans for boxes but i may list the decks for sale on their own before i figure all of that out. i definitely need to get my shop online. maybe tomorrow. It will be my birthday after all.
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haha, great way to start your birthday having just successfully pressed a totally badass deck!
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Cool man. Happy birthday
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Happy Birthday! Awesome shop!
Looks like everyone’s shop has a washer and dryer as a roommate.
You look like you got a lot of space there… I’m running out 
@chaka Nice to see you sharing all your tips
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